have once washed ashore on its beaches during the nineteenth century, the exact origin of the island's name is unknown.

During Yuc‡tan's War of the Castes (1848-49) an initial four families migrated here from Bacalar in Quintana Roo. Mexico tried to annex the territory in 1851, but the locals protested, and the matter was amicably settled by an 1893 treaty. In 1874 James Blake purchased the entire island (save for one parcel controlled by the Catholic Church) and began collecting rents. Nearly a century later the Belizean government stepped in and made a "forced purchase" of the island, selling parcels and lots to the islanders. Over the years, the local economy has shifted focus from logwood to chicle to coconuts to lobster. The last became a valuable export item from the 1920s. After a protracted struggle, the islanders established fishing cooperatives which effectively protected them from exploitation, and the income level rose.

The island was devastated by Hurricane Hattie in 1961, but the population recovered in the following years. The earliest tourists arrived in the 1920s, and the first real hotel, Celi McCorkle's San Pedro Holiday Hotel, was established in 1965. It charged US$10 for a room, three meals, and laundry service. Tropic Air began flying to the island in 1979. These days, San Pedro is in the midst of a tourism boom with correspondingly high, if volatile, property prices. One sign on a vacant beachside plot near town reads "Price went down from $200,000 to $140,000 US. Terms available."

SIGHTS: Given San Pedro's reputation as a "resort," one might expect a wide, wonderful stretch of sand. Instead what you have is a narrow stretch of sand that has - owing perhaps to dredging of sand that has damaged the reef - receded dramatically during the past decade. Nevertheless, it does run along the island's length. If you want, you can wade (or take the ferry: US 50 cents) across the river and follow the beach all the way to Mexico; you'll be kept company by barking dogs hounding you.

One of the good things the U.S. government is sponsoring in Central America is the Conch Hatchery. This somewhat engaging facility is northwest of the town about a 10-minute walk from the Paradise. The hatchery secures an egg mass and hatches it out. The infant conch are so adorable swimming around in the aquarium. Lest you think that San Pedro is nothing but cleanliness and affluence and is wonderfully idyllic all over, you can continue on past the conch hatchery to the slum areas where people live amidst wrecks of automobiles and a carpet of rusting cans and smashed plastic containers. In addition to the "ferry," a barge which will take you across to the other side, you'll note the extensive mangroves as well as the signs along the shore: "Don't mess with the baby conchs," and "Our mangroves forever." [Editor's Note: This is no longer open.]

Back in town an all-sand-and-concrete park sports tacky statues and unusual signs - such as "Please do not litter the fountain," on the side of the fountain - and "Notice to Adults: Kindly do not use children's games" on the slide. There's also a huge tire capped with a bell-shaped stone and a windblown pine tree encased by a gray painted wooden slat fence. Along this stretch, wind that would chill your buns off if you were climbing a mountain, here provides welcome relief. On the other side of town heading out past the airport, just south of the Belize Yacht Club, is one of the world's few aesthetically designed gas stations. Spanish in style, its carved wooden door features a shell as well as an elaborate Maya design, a profile of a warrior.

Marco Gonzalez Ruins: Named after the island boy who discovered the ruins, the compact Mayan ruins of Marco Gonzalez sit on the southern tip. It was excavated by Canadian archaeologists Elizabeth Graham and David M. Pendergast from 1986 to the present. Once located on the beach front, it's now set in a swamp, and one must go by boat unless it's dry. Dating from 200 B.C. to 1500 A.D. or later, it came under the cultural influence of Lamanai. It appears to have blossomed between 1150-1300, after which its popularity faded. All of the site's structures contain shells, and the three large thirteenth century structures are built largely of conch. The site is thought to have been one of the major coastal trading centers (other in Belize included Moho Caye and Cerros) of the Maya world.

DIVE SITES: The most famous of these is Hol Chan at the island's southern end which features the Hol Chan Cut. Others include The Pillars, Tackle Box Canyons, Pescador Tunnels, Mexico Rocks, Rocky Point Canyons, Victoria Canyons, and Mata Canyons. Trips are often made to the Blue Hole and the Turneffes. [Editor's note: For an extensive report on diving around Ambergris, see Alex Bradbury's piece in this section.]

EXPENSIVE ACCOMMODATIONS: Center of town: The Mayan Princess Resort Hotel (tel. 501-2-62778, fax 501-2-62784; P.O. Box 1, San Pedro) has 23 suites with kitchen and living room. All are beach front with a/c, queen bed and day bed. High season prices are US$110 single US$125 double, plus 6% tax. The island's oldest, the 16-room San Pedro Holiday Hotel (tel. 501-2-62014/2103; fax 501-2-62014; P.O. Box 1140, Belize City) features an open-faced salt water pool and a restaurant (Celi's) and a deli as well as water sports and diving. Room rates are around US$75 for rooms with fan and US$85 for a/c rooms. More expensive apartments are also available (16% tax and service charge are added). In Belize City call 501-2-44632.

North end of town: The 41-unit Paradise Resort Hotel (tel. 501-2- 62083, fax 501-2-62232; P.O. Box 25, San Pedro) lies at the end of Front Street. The wood-and-thatch structures are old yet attractively furnished. Other rooms are more traditional but well appointed with a kitchenette. The hotel has a distinctive sand, thatch, and wood ambiance, andŃwith sand spread about everywhere on the groundsŃis about the only resort in town where you really feel youÕre on the beach. Prices run from around US$50 single and US$70 double, on up; 11% tax and service are added. For more information call 800-537-1431 or 713-850-1664, fax 713-850-1664, or write P.O. Box 42809, Dept. 400, Houston, TX 77242. The 24- unit air-conditioned Paradise Villas (tel. 501-2-62331, fax 501- 2-62214; P.O. Box 1922, Belize City) are a set of recently- constructed condos which rent for around US$125 or so. Offering horseback riding, partial a/c, and a pool, 14-unit, popular Rock's Inn Apartments (tel. 501-2-62326/2717, fax 501-2-62358; P.O. Box 50, San Pedro) is designed for those who plan to do cooking. It's to the north of town along the beach. In the U.S. call 800-331- 2458.

South from the airport: The 34-room a/c Spanish-style Sun Breeze Resort (tel. 501-2-62347/2191/2345, fax 501-2-62346; P.O. Box 14, San Pedro) is close by the airport. It has a beach front bar and grill and restaurant, the Coco Palms. Also, a dive shop and boats, windsurfers, volleyball, electric carts. Rooms rent from around US$90 single and US$150 double in-season with 6% tax and 5% service added. The 52-unit, expensive Belize Yacht Club (tel. 501-2-62777, fax 501-2-62768; P.O. Box 1, San Pedro) is a set of modern Spanish-style decor condos which are being rented out. The resort offers diving, and health club. It has a pool and manicured grounds. Each unit has choice of a/c or fan, queen bed, day bed, kitchen, and living room. Rates are from around US$100 off-season (US$150 in season) not including tax. In the US call 800-44-UTELL.

One of the nation's most attractive small hotels, Changes in Latitudes (tel./fax 501-2-62986) is run by Sue and Lori, two extremely friendly Canadian women. Their logo - a melting igloo amidst palm trees - exemplifies the climate change they came to experience. Room rates are US$80 double for rooms with fans, and US$95 double for a/c d rooms. Tax is added, and breakfast is complimentary. It's set next to the Belize Yacht Club, 1/2 mile south of the airstrip. Call for complimentary pickup.

On the beach on the town's south edge, Ramon's Village Resort has 60 thatched-roof caba–as, salt water pool, and complete services including diving and fishing. From a distance, the resort has an authentic Maya look to it. Expect to pay from US$115 (plus tax) on up. Call 501-2-62067, fax 501-2-62214, or 800-443-8876 or 601- 649-1990 in the US.

Set 1.5 mi. to the south of town, Caribbean Villas (tel. 501-2- 62715, fax 501-2-62885; P.O. Box 71, San Pedro) are a set of attractive apartment suites constructed in 1991. Its a/c suites have fully-equipped kitchens with electric stoves. There are two Jacuzzis, complimentary bike rental, and a "people perch" for birdwatching. Winter rates run from US$85 plus tax. In the US, call 913-468-3608.

Set at Woody's Wharf, the Corona del Mar Apartments/Hotel (tel. 501-2-62055, fax 501-2-62461; P.O. Box 3758, San Pedro) have suites with kitchen, bedroom with two double beds, sofa bed in living room, and a/c and fans. Rates range from US$75 double off-season to US$125 double during Christmas and New Years; 16% tax and service is added. Diving, diving instruction, fishing, windsurfing, and glass bottom boat are available, and excursions can be arranged. In the US call 800-426-0226. Also set to the south of San Pedro, Mata Rocks Resort (tel. 501-2-62336, fax 501- 2-62349; P.O. Box 47, San Pedro) offers expensive accommodation ranging from US$75 single, US$85 double, US$100 triple, and US$130 quad on up; 16% tax and service are added. The nine hardwood, stucco, and tiled suites, which vary in price, have kitchenettes, ceiling, fans or a/c (some units), and sun decks. An outdoor bar is on the beach. For reservations contact Accent on Travel, 800-288-8646 or 503-645-7323 or fax 503-690-9308.

On a secluded beach about two miles south of San Pedro, Victoria House (501-2-62067, fax 501-2-62429; P.O. Box 22, San Pedro) offers rooms (some with a/c) and stucco-and-thatch caba–as with tile floors as well as diving and fishing. In the US, call 800- 247-5159 or 504-865-0717, fax 504-865-0718. Rates start from around US$85 single and US$95 double, going up considerably from there, not including 16% tax and service. A variety of packages (diving, fishing, and lovers') are available, and they also operate Fantasea Watersports (tel. 501-2-62576). others: The five-room expensive Casa Tortuga Villa (tel. 501-2-62386; 16 Mosquito Coast) has a/c or fan-cooled rooms. The seven-unit expensive Mosquito Coast Villas (tel. 501-2-62531, fax 501-2- 62331) feature fans and diving. The four-room moderate-to- expensive Tres Cocos (tel. 501-2-62531; fax 501-2-62331) offers fan-cooled rooms and diving. Two-room expensive Xanadu Apartments have fans. Located in town, the expensive six-room Alijua (tel. 501-2-62113/2791, fax 501-2-62362) features fans or a/c cottage- style accommodation with kitchens and cable TV. The a/c three- unit Palma Sola Chalet (tel. 501-2-62130, fax 501-2-62834) is on Coconut Drive. For more information call 800-468-0123 or 305-473- 1956 or fax 305-473-6011. Others include the two-room Coconut Cottages (tel. 501-2-62100, P.O. Box 19, San Pedro), and the 10- room Seven Seas Hotel (tel. 501-2-62382/2137).

MODERATE ACCOMMODATIONS: Hideaway Sports Lodge (tel. 501-2-6- 2141, fax 501-2-62269; P.O. Box 43, San Pedro) is the least- expensive hotel with a pool. Unpretentious, it has a laid back character which reminds you that you are on the Caribbean coast of Central America and not in Miami. The recently remodeled rooms are simple yet comfortable; most have fans but a few have a/c. It has a good restaurant. Rates (which include breakfast but not tax) run from US$40 double up to US$90 for a suite which holds six. Children under eight are free. The small Hotel Casablanca (tel. 501-2-62327, fax 501-2-62992) has a/c or fans and rooms from US$50 with breakfast. Its attractive rooms have bold decor including bright red sheets. Also centrally located, the 20-room unpretentious Coral Beach Hotel and Dive Club (tel. 501-2- 62001/2013, fax 501-2-62864; P.O. Box 16, San Pedro) charges from US$30 single and US$45 double plus 16% tax and service. It operates a restaurant and the Tackle Box Bar. Set in an atmospheric three-story building, the Barrier Reef Hotel (tel. 501-2-62075/2049, fax 501-2-62719) offers 14 a/c rooms and is across from the plaza. It has a restaurant and charges around US$50 single and US$65 double with substantial off-season discounts available. The 24-room Spindrift Hotel (tel. 501-2- 62174), fax 501-2-62551, 800-327-1939) is a reinforced concrete structure with rooms starting from around US$50 plus 11% tax and service. Others include the 10-room Conch Shell Inn (tel. 501-2- 62062), around US$35 single, US$45 double, and the six-unit Del Mar Garden Cottages (tel. 501-2-62170, fax 501-2-62214; P.O. Box 89, San Pedro)

BUDGET ACCOMMODATIONS: If you're on a budget, don't expect much here in the way of luxuries. One of the best bargains is the 16- room Martha's Hotel (tel. 501-2-62053, fax 501-2-62589; P.O. Box 27, San Pedro) which charges from US$15 single and US$27.50 double in the off season and US$23 single and US$35 double in the winter months; triples and quads are also available. Rates include taxes. Nine-room MiloÕs (tel. 501-2-62033) - which charges around US$10 single, US$12.50 double, and US$17.50 triple - is the least expensive. Naturally, the rooms are a bit dark, and baths are shared. Rubie's Hotel (tel. 501-2-62063/2434, fax 501-2-62434; P.O. Box 56, San Pedro) charges from around US$12.50 for simple rooms with wooden floors and shared baths; more expensive rooms are around US$25 to US$35. Some of the rooms overlook the ocean. The a/c San Pedrano Hotel (tel. 501-2-62054, fax 501-2-62093; 4 Barrier Drive) charges around US$25 single, US$30 double, US$37.50 triple and US$42.50 quad, plus tax and service charge for its wooden-floored rooms; off season is less expensive. Meals are served upon request. They also have an apartment. Ten-room Lily's Hotel (tel. 501-2-62059) is on the waterfront. Rooms are large and wood-paneled with fluorescent lighting and fans; some have an ocean view. Charges are from around US$40 in season. The six-room Pirates Lantern Guest House at the South End (tel. 501-2-62146, fax 501-2-62796) features private baths and fans for around US$12.50 single, US$17.50 double. Other budget hostelries include the 10-room Cruz Apartments (tel. 501-2-62091); the four-room Islander Hotel (tel. 501-2-62065); four-unit Laidy's Apartments (tel. 501-2-62118); eight-room Lourdes Hotel (tel. 501-2-62066) on Middle Street; and the eight-room Tomas Hotel (tel. 501-2- 62061). Finally, if staying for an extended period, houses are available for rent.

Northern Ambergris accommodations: All of these are relatively expensive and may only be reached by boat. The closest of the resorts on the island's northern end at 3 miles, the colonial- style 22-room El Pescador (tel./fax 501-2-62398, 800-628-1447; P.O. Box 793, Belize City) offers "a special fishing experience" for the devoted fisherman. Fish in the area include sailfish, wahoo, snook, lady fish, tarpon, bone fish, and jack crevalle. If you don't fish, there's nada to do here! A number of all- inclusive packages are available; they range in price from around US$1,400 per person, double. Captain Morgan's Retreat (tel. 501-2- 62567, fax 501-2-62768; P.O. Box 38, San Pedro, or in the U.S. contact Magnum Belize, tel. 800-447-2931, fax 218-847-0334; P.O. Box 1560, Detroit Lakes, MN 56502), 3 miles north of river. It has 21 thatched-roof, wooden cabanas with fans and bath; there's a pool with a wooden deck and restaurant. Rates start from US$95 single and US$120 off-season and rise to US$130 single and US$170 double during the winter; service charge (5%) and 6% hotel tax are additional. Some packages are offered. Fishing, diving, and snorkeling are available. On the beach at the north end, Journey's End Caribbean Club (tel. 501-2-62173; P.O. Box 12, San Pedro), a self-contained resort, features a combination of cabanas and villas with French cuisine, tennis courts, TV, sailboards, and sailboats. If you're looking for a truly Belizean atmosphere this isn't the place. You could be anywhere in the tropical world when you're here. In the US call 800-447-0474 or 305-899-9486. Set some 6 miles north of San Pedro, the six-room moderate-priced Green Parrot Resort has beach front caba–as with fans, boating and fishing, and seclusion. It is the product of Stuart Corns, a retired engineer from California. Leave a message at 501-2-62147 or fax 501-2-62245.

DINING: San Pedro is a fairly expensive place where you basically plan to spend US$10 or more to eat well. As often holds true in Belize, for some strange reason seafood is more expensive than meat or poultry here. One very popular place is Elvi's Kitchen on Pescador Drive (Middle Street). It has good seafood and reasonable prices. In the Spindrift, Mary Ellen's Little Italy Restaurant (tel. 501-2-62866) offers Belizean and Italian dishes. Located in Fido's Courtyard, La Parilla serves inexpensive Mexican food. The Hideaway is reasonable and has good food. Its fried chicken, shrimp creole, and conch dishes are popular; breakfast here is good value.

The Emerald is a reasonably priced Chinese restaurant; it has cheap rice and bean dishes as well. Often packed and very attractive, the Jade Garden, south of town, has an inexpensive vegetable fried rice; it's open daily from 7:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. The Grill Restaurant is cool and breezy but pricey. Celi's Restaurant, attached to the Holiday Hotel, is one of the most- famous bistros. It serves three meals, and dinner includes lobster, shrimp, and fish.

Set south of the airstrip, Duke's Place serves moderately-priced Belizean, Caribbean, and Mexican food in a romantic atmosphere. Ambergris Delight on Pescador Drive serves burgers, chicken, and beans and rice at reasonable prices. The Paradise offers an "all you can eat" Sunday brunch for US$7.50 and a beach BBQ from 7:30 that evening for US$15. The a/c Coco Palms Restaurant at the Sea Breeze serves elegant seafood and hearty Mexican dishes. Also try the Pirate's Tavern. The classy Lagoon Restaurant is set in the Hotel Casablanca on Pescador Drive. Coral Gardens, Front Street, chicken and fries for around US$3 and Chinese dishes from US$5.

Victoria House (tel. 501-2-62067) has buffet service and a special "Queen Victoria Brunch" on Sunday from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.; free transportation is provided. Big Daddy's has a nightly beach BBQ, and the Holiday Hotel and Mata Rocks also have beach BBQs. Informal and excellent value. The Reef on Middle Street (Pescador Drive) has seafood and daily specials as well as salbutes and tacos. Food is served in an informal atmosphere to a reggae beat. Mickey's has lunches for US$4 and huge burritos.

For snacks, several shops have baked goods and pastries, hamburgers, tacos and pizza. The Pizza Place sells slices for under US$1.50. HL Burgers is on Middle Street. Manelly's, on Barrier Reef Drive across from the Lion's Den, has ice cream. Celi's Deli in the Holiday Hotel offers take out items from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. The Casa de Cafˇ serves expensive coffee at US$1, muffins, and slices of cake. The Barrier Reef offers sandwiches for lunch. Luigi's serves Mexican food. The Vitaminas Juice Bar is in the Alijua Building and also serves sandwiches and ice cream. At the park at night a lady sells rice and beans and chicken and salad for US$2.50; a hot dog vendor stands right by her.

ENTERTAINMENT: At night the streets are quiet save for the refrain of Spanish-language TV pouring into the streets, but there are a few places and the action starts late. Frequently featuring live bands, Big Daddy's Disco is the mainstay. Located next to the park and marked by an unforgettable sign, it has a sand floor bar with a thatch peaked roof, booths, dart board, maps, and a disco papered with checkerboard-style painted egg cartons which glow under the blacklight. Free snacks are dispensed during happy hour which runs from 7 to 9 daily. Its "two for one" cocktails are largely fruit juice. Set at the end of the pier by the Coral Beach the Tacklebox Bar offers live bands during tourist season. Thankfully, the sea creatures once imprisoned in the back have been freed.

The Purple Parrot Too Bar at Fido's Courtyard offers live music from Thursday to Sunday. With a giant sandal hanging outside, the Sandal has a collection of sandals hanging on the walls along with dart boards, and Grace Jones and Bob Marley posters. The Casablanca has a romantic rooftop bar. Distastefully furnished with stretched zebra skins acquired by a previous owner, the bar at the Paradise features the Paradise Freeze, a blend of amaretto, angelica, vodka, orange juice, and coca creme. Also try Barrier Reef, Fido's Bar, and the outlying resort of Journey's End (accessible only by boat) which has bands on weekends. Finally, visit the Pier Lounge in the Spindrift for the Monday crab races and the Wednesday evening Chicken Drop at which locals bet which number a chicken will defecate on first. Numbers from 1 to 100

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