
"THE NUMBER 1 MAGAZINE ON TRAVEL, LIFE, AND RETIREMENT ON THE CARIBBEAN COAST"
VOLUME II, NUMBER 2
ON-LINE TEXT EDITION
COPYRIGHT 1995 BY LAN SLUDER. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
Traditional magazine edition with maps and photos also available. Contact Belize First for details.
Colonel Lindbergh for his pioneering efforts to bring them into the age of air transport. Certainly it would not have been long in coming to this part of the world. Conditions and geography demanded use of aircraft, and there were men like Trippe of Pan Am and TACA's Lowell Yerex who were ready to meet this demand. Lindbergh's fame, however, plus his firm belief in the future of air transport, did a great deal to hasten the arrival of regular air service to Belize, and to all the other previously remote places in Central America. As he stated in his autobiography: "Five minutes of flight covered what would have been a hard day's riding or walking for a native. Even the capitol cities in Central America were isolated places."
==Neil Fraser was born in Belize in 1931 and now lives in Atlanta, where he owns an advertising firm. In addition to being the author of a book on co-op advertising and of many magazine articles on marketing, he is a widely published poet. In the next issue of BELIZE FIRST, look for his retrospective on Pan Am and TACA in Central America. ==
* * * IN CASE YOU MISSED IT * * *
Here's an update on what's been happening in Belize:
FIVE NEW NATIONAL PARKS CREATED
New Parks created by the
government in May are Aguas Turbia National Park in Orange Walk District,
near the border with Mexico and Guatemala, consisting of almost 9,000
acres; Sarstoon Delta National Park, in southern Belize, 41,000 acres; Rio
Blanco National and Waterfall Reserve between Santa Elena and Santa Cruz
villages, 100 acres; Payne's Creek National Park, south of Monkey River,
29,420 acres; and a park in Belize District adjoining the Manatee Forest
Reserve.
NEW BELIZE TOURIST OFFICE IN U.S.
Camella Fairweather has been named
to head the Belize tourism office in New York, which is at a new address:
Belize Tourist Board, 421 7th Avenue, S.W. 701, New York, NY 10001. Tel.
212-563-6011, fax 212-563-6033.
BILTMORE PLAZA BECOMES BEST WESTERN
The Belize Biltmore Plaza Hotel
at Mile 3 of the Northern Highway has become a Best Western. It's one of
only two BW properties in Central America, the other being in Guatemala.
BELIZE PASSPORTS FOR SALE?
Although the United Democratic Party
government previously indicated it would not resume an 'economic
citizenship' program followed by the previous People's United Party
government, whereby payments to various programs result in Belizean
citizenship, reportedly almost 60 cases have been processed by the UDP
since regaining office in July 1993. The average price for the nationality
certificates was US$25,000, and most of the recipients were Hong Kong
Chinese. The government says these were applications made before the
UDP took office. However, as a way to raise revenues, the UDP reportedly
is studying proposals to reintroduce the sale of economic citizenship to
foreign nationals. Prime Minister Manuel Esquivel now says he would like
to see a public debate on the subject.
MALARIA CASES DOUBLE
Reported cases of malaria in Belize nearly
doubled in 1993 from the year before, to 8,500 cases. This means that
about 1 in 26 Belizean residents was infected in the last year. LOW
INFLATION Belize had the second-lowest inflation rate in the region in
1993, at 2.8%. This compares with 9% for Costa Rica, 8.7% for Mexico,
13.4% for Honduras, 13.5% for El Salvador and 28% for Nicaragua. Only
Panama had a lower inflation rate, 1.6%.
BELIZE POLICE AFTER GANGS
Following months of increased gang violence
in Belize City, including three gang-related murders in one eight-day
period in May, police in June began Operation Gang Bang in an effort to
take back city streets. They detained and then released some 200 alleged
gang members.
CHAMBER OF COMMERCE IN TROUBLE
The Belize Chamber of Commerce and
Industry reportedly has reduced its staff to a skeletal level, following
internal problems, lots of red ink and at least one court judgment against
it.
TRANS-JAMAICAN AIRLINES DEBUTS SERVICE
Trans-Jamaican Airlines has
begun daily weekday service between Belize City and Grand Cayman,
Kingston, Montego Bay, and separate daily weekday service between Belize
City and Cancun. Trans-Jamaican uses 46- seat turbo props.
MAHOGANY FORESTS BEING DEPLETED The national tree of Belize, mahogany, is being harvested at a rate that is three times greater than is sustainable, according to a Belize Ministry of Natural Resources study. New regulations on harvesting and sawing mahogany are being introduced to conserve remaining stocks.
NOW IT'S CALLED BILEEZ KRIOL
A June workshop in Belize City on
standardizing Creole as a written language developed several rules on
spelling. Following the new rules, the name of the country will be written
as Bileez and the language as Kriol.
GUNMEN AT XUNANTUNICH
Two Belizeans --a Belize City businessman and
the Xunantunich caretaker, Elfego Panti -- were robbed by masked gunmen
in separate incidents June 26 near the famous ruins. The crimes took
place between the ferry and the ruins, a site of occasional previous
incidents. One of the robbers reportedly was carrying a sub-machine gun.
RECOMMENDED HOTELS IN BELIZE
Belize has about 3,400 guest rooms in some 300 hotels, ranging from tiny guest houses to modern hotels. The following list of recommended hotels is NOT by any means all-inclusive, but these are some that have been found to be visitor-friendly and offer good value in the price category. If your favorite hotel is missing, write to us and complain!
Price range: A (over US$100 double); B (US$50 to $100 double); C (under US$50 double). Rates are for typical rooms without meals (though breakfast may be included), may vary by season or with specials, and are subject to change.
BELIZE CITY (800 hotel rooms): Belize Biltmore Plaza/Best Western, A; Ramada Royal Reef, A; Radisson Ft. George, A; Chateau Caribbean, B; Four Fort Street Guesthouse, B; Bellevue Hotel, B; Colton House, C; Belize Guest House, C; Seaside Guest House, C; Glenthorne Manor, C; Hotel Mopan, C.
CAYO DISTRICT (550 hotel rooms): Chaa Creek Cottages, A; Hidden Valley Inn, A; duPlooy's, A; Banana Bank Ranch, B; Maya Mountain Lodge, B; Mountain Equestrian Trails, B; Windy Hill Cottages, B; Hotel San Ignacio, B; Ek'Tun, B; Nabitunich, C; Parrot's Nest, C; Las Casitas, C.
AMBERGRIS CAYE (900 hotel rooms): Victoria House, A; Belize Yacht Club, A; Captain Morgan's Retreat, A; Journey's End, A; Ramon's Village, A; Paradise Resort, A; Paradise Villas, A; Sun Breeze, A; Caribbean Villas, B; Spindrift Hotel, B; Barrier Reef, B; Ruby's, C.
CAYE CAULKER (300 hotel rooms): Tropical Paradise, C; Rainbow Hotel, C; Vega's Far Inn, C; Shirley's Guest House, C.
OTHER CAYES: St. George's Lodge, St. George Caye, A; Blackbird Caye Resort, Turneffe Islands, A; Turneffe Island Lodge, Caye Bokel, A; Lighthouse Reef Resort, Lighthouse Reef, A; Manta Reef Resort, Southwest Caye, A; Reef's End, Tobacco Caye, B; Cottage Colony, St. George's Caye, B; Glover's Atoll Resort, Long Caye, C.
PLACENCIA (140 hotel rooms): Rum Point Inn, A; Kitty's Place, B; Turtle Inn, B; Singing Sands, B; Ran's, C.
COCKSCOMB NATURE RESERVE: Dormitory Cabins, C.
DANGRIGA: Pelican Beach Resort, B.
PUNTA GORDA: Fallen Stones Butterfly Ranch, A; Nature's Way Guest House, C.
NORTH OF BELIZE CITY: Maruba Resort, near Altun Ha, A; Chan Chich Lodge, Chan Chich, A; Chau Hiix Lodge, Crooked Tree, A; Crooked Tree Resort, Crooked Tree, B; Lamanai Outpost, Lamanai, B; Adventure Inn, Consejo Shores, B; Hotel Los Cocos, Chetumal, B; Blue Heron Cove, Sarteneja, C.
HOTEL UPDATE
This new feature gives you the latest information on hotels in Belize. The opinions here are those of the individuals named and not necessarily of BELIZE FIRST. We invite readers and friends to share their experiences, good and bad, with hotels in Belize:
AMBERGRIS CAYE
Victoria House: Victoria House was like a picture postcard and there are many other such settings on Ambergris. I stayed in one of the casitas at US$120 a night. The nicest thing about the casita is that each has a small front porch with two chairs on it. About half of the 26 rooms at Victoria House depend on ceiling fans, not air-conditioning. This is a matter of individual sensitivities, but I found it difficult to sleep at night in my non-air-conditioned room. If I had it to do again, I would have angled for one of the newer air- conditioned units. They don't have "porches," but each has a reasonably private balcony-type sitting area and most have comparable views. Among my small gripes with Victoria House were the fact the courtesy van to town (2 miles away) gives first priority to picking up dinner guests from other hotels, not to taking Victoria House guests to town. It seems like it should be the other way around. Bruce Drake, March 1994
Rock's Inn: It was great. The third floor room number 15 has a view on three sides of the beach and ocean. It has high vaulted ceiling with mahogany wood work. Very romantic. It doesn't have a pool but it is close to town and a lot (for San Pedro) to do. Michael S. Chapman, March 1994
CAYE CAULKER
Rainbow Hotel: BZ$70 for a double. Spring for a few extra dollars to stay on the second floor for cable TV (with remote control!) and a steady ocean breeze. (I know, the reason you go to Caye Caulker is to get away from things like cable TV.) I will stay here again. Ate at several restaurants on Caye Caulker -- liked Pink's the best. Stan Dahl, April 1994
OTHER CAYES
Turneffe Island Lodge: My wife and I, along with two other couples, spent a week at the Turneffe Island Lodge the first week in April. We flew into Belize City where representatives of the Lodge picked us up at the airport baggage claim and took us to the city docks where their boat was waiting to take the 15 guests to Turneffe Island. It was a two-hour boat ride to Turneffe which lies almost directly east of Belize City. We were greeted at the Lodge by several of the staff and by the owner of the Lodge, Dave Bennett.
The Lodge is very rustic and simple, although clean and comfortable. There are four guest units with a total of 12 rooms to accommodate 24 guests. All meals are served at the Lodge by the staff since there is absolutely nothing else around for miles and miles. The staff was excellent, food was good, and service friendly and prompt. There was a slight problem with adequate diesel fuel the week we were there since all of Belize was short on fuel. (Note: The units are not air conditioned but there was a good easterly breeze all week and the 85 degree temperatures were not a problem at all.) The Turneffe Island atoll is actually several small mangrove and palm tree filled islands stretching several miles. The Lodge is self contained on a 12-acre white sand island which is beautifully manicured with plenty of beach chairs and hammocks. This is not a traditional Caribbean beach with swimming but since we were in the water all day long scuba diving, this was not a problem.
The Lodge is both a fishing and diving lodge, although the majority of the guests go to Turneffe to dive. The fishing is basically just around the flats of the atoll on two-person skiffs so there was not any heavy duty deep sea fishing. They have three dive masters and three different dive boats that could handle anywhere from eight divers (on the small boat) up to 24 on the large boat. The Dive Masters were all very professional and helpful. We had no hesitation tipping all three generously following our 17 dives in six days.
The diving was typically excellent. We did have one "scratch" dive due to poor visibility but all of the other dives gave us 50 to 80 feet visibility. Most of the dives were 15 minutes from the Lodge except our last day when we did a "day trip" to Light House reef for two excellent wall dives.
I understand that bugs can be a real problem on Turneffe but we did not encounter any bugs at all. It rained around 10 minutes one morning and the rest of the time was beautiful. All in all, we thoroughly enjoyed this dive trip to Turneffe Island and highly recommend it people that love to dive (and possibly fish some as well) and are willing to "rough it" somewhat. However, for those who like a luxury hotel (i.e., endless supply of fresh water, air conditioning, expensive restaurants, night life, etc.), this is not the place to go. Neal Ater, April 1994
CAYO DISTRICT
Parrot Nest: About 4 miles from San Ignacio. BZ$35 double or single. Meals extra, about BZ$5 for breakfast, BZ $10 for dinner. Two tree houses (really!) and two cabanas. Shared toilets (flush) and shower rooms, cold only. Riverside setting. Owner/operator Fred Prost enhancing already extraordinary site with native plantings. Meals served on porch of Fred's home. Unique owner-built structures that naturally blend into the surroundings, thatched roofs. Engineering and construction appeared quite sound (only place we stayed on this trip where septic system could handle the toilet paper). Very quiet. Meals were first rate with fresh vegetables from local Mennonite farms, reasonably priced. Caution: a mosquito net may be helpful. Mike Smith and Dana von Bargen, January 1994
Pine Ridge Lodge: Mountain Pine Ridge BZ$130 for a double. All cabins are now the same price. Breakfast included. Lunch, served there or boxed to take with you BZ$10. Dinner BZ$20. Boxed lunch was good, dinners were terrific. No electricity or hot water, but I missed neither. Owners very friendly and helpful. Dinner served family style. Some nature trails on the grounds. A bit expensive for what it offers, but considering it is in a remote area and seemed as eco-friendly as possible, I highly recommend this place. Stan Dahl, April 1994
BELIZE CITY
Colton House: BZ$80 for a double. Couple rent rooms in their home. Very nice rooms. In one of the better neighborhoods in the city. As an aside, Belize City was not anywhere as bad of a place as I was lead to believe. Like any city anywhere in the world, there are better and worse neighborhoods. However, I don't think I have been anywhere where people were more helpful and friendly. Stan Dahl, April 1994
THE SOUTH
Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary: Accommodations available through Belize Audubon Society, P. O. Box 1001, Belize City. Phone: 501-2-34987 or 2-34988, fax 501-2-34985 Alternate contact with Sanctuary: radio, 2M FM 142.750. Price of bed (dorm style) BZ$12 per person, camping site BZ$3. Sleeping buildings contain about 12 beds each. They are metal roofed with screened windows and concrete floors. Cooking area has stove and pots, but few plates or utensils. No food is available at the Sanctuary. Toilet is pit type. There is no shower, but there are walled off washing areas with buckets. Camping area has about four palapas (thatched roof, no wall), good for slinging hammock or using as living area of tent shelter. We liked being overnight at the sanctuary, witnessing both the advent of nightfall and dawn. On-site wardens from nearby Mayan community were especially helpful. Caution: There were little black flies that were a special biting problem; wear long pants tucked in all the time. Mosquito screen for sleeping highly recommended. Mike Smith and Dana von Bargen, December 1993
Fallen Stones Butterfly Ranch and Jungle Lodge: San Pedro Columbia, near Punta Gorda, operated by a botanist and butterfly enthusiast named Ray Harberd. From P.G., after about an hours' drive on a very bad road we arrived at Lubaantum, an important archeological site meaning "Place of fallen stones'. About a mile farther was the Lodge. Located in the foothills of the Mayan Mountains, it is surrounded by secondary rain forest, and is within a very short distance of primary forest, uninhabited by man for about 60 miles! Ray, and his partner, Clive, are botanists, with special interests in butterflies. They have built a sizable "farm" where they grow specific plants, found in the surrounding area, that are required by various species of butterflies in their reproduction. They also export them to butterfly exhibits all over the world. As a guest at the Lodge one is allowed to visit the farm, where hundreds of variously colored butterflies flitter about!
The lodgings are built based on the local Kekchi type houses, thatched with cohune palms and with high pitched roofs. The walls, ceilings and floors are constructed with tongue and grooved pitch pine, and the windows are fitted with louvered shutters. Mosquito gauze keeps the biting bugs out, although surprisingly, there were few such critters. Accommodations are available in small double cabins, or larger three bedroom bungalows. All provide large verandahs with beautiful and far- reaching views of the Columbia and Mayan Mountains Forest reserves.
Meals provided vary from ones based on local Mayan cooking to interesting adaptations by Ray's wife, Elsie.
One can walk the various trails on the property observing numerous species of plants, butterflies, mammals and birds. Many hummingbird species frequent the different, colorful flowers. At night the area is frequented by different types of insect eating and fruit bats, as well as owls, hawks, jaguars, agouti, coati and other creatures of the night. Also, the fer-de-lance is to be watched out for. All three species of toucans are seen at various times of the year.
There are no phones at Fallen Stones Lodge. They can only be contacted directly via radio. To contact the Lodge to arrange for reservations one must contact Alistair King in Punta Gorda who can get you in contact with Ray at the Lodge. Postal address: P.O. Box 23, Punta Gorda, Belize. Contact Alistair King at the Texaco Station in Punta Gorda, phone 501- 7-2126, fax 501-7-2104. Rates: single BZ$130, double BZ$155. Meals: breakfast BZ$12, lunch BZ$16, dinner BZ$30. A 6% room tax, plus a BZ$10 service charge per person per night, is added to the above charges. Although prices are high, this place far exceeds anything else we saw in the Toledo district. Joe and Katie Tryby, March 1994
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