Yucatán, México, Reader Updates

* HOTEL PLAYA AZUL, COZUMEL. Contact: Carr. a San Juan, Km. 4, Zona Hotelera Norte, P.O. Box 31, Cozumel, Q. Roo 77600, tel. 52-987-20199, fax 987-20110, e-mail playazul@cozumel.com.mx. This family-run small hotel on the beach north of San Miguel proved perfect for our family. In fact, we stayed a day or two longer than we had planned because we enjoyed it so much. We had a seafront suite on the second floor, with a rate of US$140 for four of us. Regular rooms and units not facing the water were less. Our suite had a large bedroom plus a sleeping/living room area, separated by a large bathroom. There was a nice balcony overlooking the beach and beach bar. The A/C was deliciously powerful. The room had no TV, but my kids watched a Bob Hope movie on the VCR in a public room (TV reception wasn't good). The beach is small but nice. There is a restaurant on-site, although we only ate there at breakfast, which was pleasant. I think this is an excellent compromise between modest hotels in the bustle of town and the large hotels and timeshares south of town. Management is efficient, friendly and helpful. Lan Sluder, BELIZE FIRST, July 1998

* A lot of Cozumel is getting more developed and more expensive than when we first visited there. But we still love it. Following are some of the less expensive places to eat that we like in Cozumel. EL TURIX is located on the square in front of the Corpus Christi Church on Calle 17 Sur between Ave. 20 & 25. It features a home style Yucatan cuisine with preparations and dishes not found in very many other local restaurants. The kitchen is spotless, the service friendly and the food is good. Another good choice for an inexpensive Mexican restaurant is LOS MOROS DEL MORRITO on Ave. 35 near Calle 3 Sur. Try the garlic soup (with or without a raw egg) and the slow roasted pork (cochinta pibil) tacos. The cantaloupe water drink (melon liquada) is a treat as are the fried bananas with cream (plantanos fritas.) You won't be able to find EL MORRO by yourself (and once you get there you'll think you're in the wrong place) so take a cab. It's a few blocks past the "Big Conch" circle on 65th. Everything on the menu is good, especially the seafood and the hand written specials. It's owned by relatives of the owners of Los Morros Del Morrito and offers a similar menu. To be perfectly honest, this place used to cheaper and better before they began catering to tourists but it's still a good experience. EL SARAPE is located on Ave. 30 in the same block as (but across the street from) Ace Hardware. It is one of those holes in the wall tacquerias with inexpensive prices and good food that people who don't venture far off of the oceanfront don't think exists in Cozumel. Tacos al Pastor (grilled pork) with a slice of pineapple at less than a dollar for three and the bean soup (frijoles charros) are both excellent. The only beverages served are soft drinks but you can buy beer next door at the distributor. If hole in the wall type places are not for you, EL REY TACOS is a more upscale tacqueria that is frequented by both locals and gringos. The food here is also very good and inexpensive by tourist standards. All the dishes you would expect plus a nice condiment table in the middle of the restaurant for all to enjoy. It's located on Ave. 30 between Calles 2 and 4. The COCINA MEXICANA is located on the central square in front of the Hotel Lopez. Lunch specials usually include a choice of soups and entrees served with rice and a delightful fresh fruit flavored water (liquada) for about US $3. Up and down Ave. 30 you will see a number of take-out grilled chicken (pollo asada) places. While the side dishes vary, it usually comes with rice, corn tortillas and pickled onions. The food is good and very reasonable. A whole chicken should be about US$5. One of the better ones is ROTISSERIE at Calle 8 on 30th. Another good one is a yellow A- frame next to the baseball park on 30th. A third is near the gas station on 30th that in addition to chicken also offers bar-b-que ribs. If you're planning an afternoon at the beach, consider picking up lunch to go on your way out of town. The restaurant at the Costa Brava Hotel next to the Dive Paradise office is a pretty good inexpensive breakfast spot. If you're spending the day at a nearby hotel beach, it's a good choice for lunch. Try the Mini Lenny Caesar Salad. PARROQUIA is located upstairs behind the Central Plaza church on Ave. 10. The chicken in mole sauce and soupa de lima are good choices here. This is a hang out for the local food & beverage service crowd and is open quite late. CHILANGO'S is one of the few food stalls you will find gringos eating at in Cozumel. It's a yellow structure located next to the baseball park on the corner of 30th near the fruit stands and is open only for dinner. Your server will flatten and cook your tortilla shells as you order. There usually is a choice of six to eight mixtures to stuff them with. There will likely be chicken, pork, beef, potato, fish and usually a cactus mixture. Prices for each is less than US$1 and you have to be real hungry to eat three of them. If you want beer, you'll have to bring your own. Be prepared to try your Spanish or be ready to point. Another spot the brave might try: a food stand is the row of stalls beside the "El Mercado" or Town Market. You'll get a meat entree with rice and beans and a beverage (try the papaya water drink) for US$3-4. On Ave. 5 just south of Pro Dive, EL FOCO serves inexpensive light meals, and while you might not think so on first impression, a clean kitchen. Try the El Foco Special Taco. A popular breakfast restaurant is COCO'S located on the Ave 5 mall one block south of the Central Plaza. The egg and bacon (or ham) soft breakfast taco is recommended, as is the $2.95 American special breakfast. The fresh fruit plate is also good. Joel S. Kluger, Cozumel, Mexico, August 1998

* Puerto Morelos, a small village 30 miles south of Cancun and 20 miles south of Cancun's international airport, is a perfect place for those not looking for the glitz of Cancun. It offers small family-run hotels and B&Bs. Gorgeous beach with lots of palm trees; great for hanging a hammock and relaxing. The magnificent Maya reef is just 250 meters from shore. Many good restaurants serve fresh fish and native Yucatec dishes. The largest natural botanical garden in Mexico, MAYA ECHO, is close by for nature lovers and bird watchers. AMAR INN (tel. +52-987-10026), US$50 per night for two, breakfast included. Located in Puerto Morelos, on the beach, Amar Inn is a small B&B with great food, surrounded by palm trees. English spoken and Spanish classes available. Arriving in town take a left on the main avenue, three blocks on beach side. Arriving by bus get off at highway junction and take colectivo taxi 3 kilometers to Amar Inn (approx. US$1 US per person for taxi). For information on Mayo Echo and Amar Inn, contact Sandra (tel. +52-987-10136, e-mail: starseed@cancun.rce.com.mx, http://www.mhrn.org.uk/mayaecho.) Peter Eltringham, England, September 1997