Tikal Reader Updates

* Thanks for all your great web information on traveling in Belize. It was
hugely helpful to me in planning our trip, and certainly part of the reason
that our vacation was such a success. I'm sending a brief review of our
experiences (April 22-May8, 2004) at Southwater Caye, Tikal and the Mountain Pine Ridge, that you and future travelers to Belize may find interesting.

We spent 6 glorious days at Pelican Pouch in Southwater Caye. Our group
included two families with three young children and we shared the two room
Osprey Nest. The rooms are quite basic, but perfectly adequate and clean
with lots of porch space for relaxing. Our objective was doing lots of
snorkeling, and Southwater Caye turned out to be the perfect spot. The
island sits directly on the reef and there is great snorkeling in waist deep
water off the south tip. We even did a night snorkel off the beach and saw
several morays. Alton, one of the friendly resort hosts took us to several
nearby patch reefs where we encountered eagle rays, dolphins and lots of
colorful reef fish. When not snorkeling we enjoyed the beautiful white sand
beach and usually had it all to ourselves. The beach and entire island is
great for young kids, lots of space to play and a very safe environment. The
tasty, "down-home" cooking prepared by Anne was delicious and plentiful. We
enjoyed strolling to the Blue Marlin Lodge for a sunset drink on their
wonderful dock. We had been warned about bugs, but other than a few sand fly
bites, they were really not bothersome. SW Caye is a great spot if you want
serenity, friendly service, good snorkeling and don't mind rustic
accomodations.

We found our way to the Hidden Valley Inn, in the Mountain Pine Ridge via
public bus from Dangriga and then a taxi from San Ignacio. This was all
really easy and cost us a fraction of what it would have cost using private
transfers arranged through the hotels. Hidden Valley is a gem! Beautiful
accomodations, great service/food and an amazing property. I have to say
that driving into the Pine Ridge was a bit disconcerting with the
devastation left behind by the pine beetle. However the huge Hidden Valley
property has such variety, encompassing both pine and broad leaf forest,
that the visual impact of the destruction is minimized. We spent several
days exploring the property's trails and beautiful waterfalls , via foot and
mountain bike. The wonderful staff delivered yummy picnics to predetermined
sites so we didn't even have to lug anything. After a day of hiking the
trails it was such a treat coming back to the refreshing pool and jacuzzi.
The managers/staff of the inn have created a perfect balance of elegant
professionalism with down-to -earth warmth, and made us feel like pampered
family members. Our one complaint was the price of the off-site tours. Price
aside, our tour to Caracol, Rio On and Rio Frio Caves was terrific and we
had an excellent guide. I must mention too that Hidden valley staff went out
of their way to accommodate our "price sensitivity" and found a great,
reasonably priced local cave tour (Balls Caves). I'd highly recommend this
place if you're a nature lover and outdoor enthusiast who values coming home
to "creature comforts" served up in a professional yet warm and relaxing
atmosphere.

Onward to Tikal via taxi from San Ignacio to the border ($5 Belize). On the
Guatemalan side we found mini van transportation to Tikal for US$25 (for 2
adults and our 7 year old). The driver took us directly to the door of the
JUNGLE LODGE. We were happy that we had not reserved in advance, because the
$63/night we paid was significantly less than what was quoted via internet.
As most guide books state, you do get better value staying in Flores or El
Remate, but we enjoyed the jungle experience (Howler Monkey wake-up call)
and being able to wander to the site several times during the day without
feeling rushed. The tour we did through the visitor centre was excellent. If
you have time, it certainly is pleasant to spend a night or two in Tikal.
The site is awesome. We found some good inexpensive eateries right across
the street from the visitor centre. We spent our last full day in Flores and
stayed at the very pleasant Casona de la Isla for US$37 including 2
breakfasts. It has a nice pool with a pretty view of the lake. Flores is
packed with places to stay/ eat and shops selling Guatemalan handicrafts.
I'm sure it can't compete with some of the colourful towns in the highlands,
but it was a nice way to get a taste of Guatemala. Happy travels!
Caroline Helbig, April-May 2004

* After San Igncaio we went to Tikal, where we had arranged to meet some friends. They had already booked the JAGUAR INN for the night when we got there, otherwise we probably would've stayed elsewhere. Jaguar Inn is way overpriced at US$48 for a double room, if you ask me. TIKAL INN, right next door, cost US $40 and it has a very inviting pool (and fully functioning). In hindsight, though, I'd probably stay in El Remata or even Flores. I'm sure it would be possible to get an early ride out to Tikal and still see the sunrise. This would save a lot of money. Evisch, August 2002

.* We spent a few nights at CAMINO REAL-TIKAL in El Rematé, Guatemala. Though the physical facilities are quite nice we did not find our stay to compare even slightly with the pleasures experienced at Casa Santo Domingo in Antigua. The rates charged were higher than the written confirmations which the staff refused to accept, the complimentary breakfasts were Quetzales 302.5 for for persons (exchange rate of approximately Q6.30 to US$1) though they did credit this upon our objection. Contrary to taxi fares which seem to prevail elsewhere in the area, round trips to Tikal were US$50! Entrance into Tikal itself was Q50. Contrary to what we had heard from various sources, crossing the Guatemalan boarder to return to Belize was very straightforward and inexpensive, costing a total of only Q10 per person. At the time of our trip there was a cholera warning at the border town of Melchor de Mencos, Guatemala. Gordon Fenner, Edenton, North Carolina

* I just returned from a few days in Belize using San Ignacio as my base camp. I took the bus from Belize City to San Ignacio. I stayed in San Ignacio at the BALMORAL which is downtown across from EVA'S restaurant. The accommodations were pretty spartan but the rooms have a color TV, private bath and fan. There was a lot of noise from the street until 9 or 10 p.m. and then it got pretty quiet. It's an adequate place for penny-pinchers. Kenny is the 30-something son of the owners of the Balmoral and he talked me into letting him arrange the two trips I took while in-country. He's a very out going and friendly guy. However, be sure you get the tour price straight with him beforehand. Then expect to pay about 10-20 % more when all is said and done. All in all, I recommend him. Most of the Tikal tours that you book in San Ignacio charge US$75-85 per person for an all-inclusive tour to Tikal. Through Kenny I found out that if you cross over to Guatemala yourself you can catch a minibus operated by the PALACE hotel for US$20 US round-trip to Tikal (transportation only). That's what I did and was happy with the service. The Palace hotel is on the left about 100 yards after you cross into Guatemala. Their minibus leaves at 10 a.m., gets to Tikal at noon and starts back at 4 p.m. There are other minibuses lined up at the border so you will be deluged with offers as soon as you cross the border. If you don't take the Palace Hotel minibus, at least you can use this as a price reference. I think you can expect to pay more though if you try to catch a minibus earlier in the day. The road to Tikal/Flores is dirt most of the way but not very bumpy. You will also be deluged by money changers at the border. Maybe deluged is the wrong word. They are polite and just ask you if you want to change some money. It's just that you will be asked several times. It is a good idea to buy some Guatemalan quetzales at the border as it makes transactions less confusing in Guatemala than dealing with dollars and exchange rates for each transaction. Some places in Guatemala may not accept dollars. Also, I hear the rate is not very good further in. On my second day, Kenny was my guide for a trip from San Ignacio to Flores. We took a taxi from San Ignacio to the border (about 12 miles) and after crossing over we caught a school-type bus to Flores which took about two and a half hours, stopping frequently for people getting on and off. We caught the bus at the border at 8 a.m. and then went all through the town on the Guatemalan side (Melchor) and then circled back to the border one more time at about 8:30 to pick up more passengers before heading for Flores. So, you have two chances to catch the bus, (probably more buses later in the day, I don't know about those). You may need to ask about where to catch the return bus in Flores because depending on where you get off in Flores, that may not be where the return bus starts out on the return trip. We had to walk a couple of blocks from where we got off the bus in the morning to where we caught the return bus in the afternoon. One option would be to not get off the bus in Flores until the end-of-the line there. That way at least you will know where to get back on. Another word about buses in Belize and Guatemala: If you are expecting Greyhound or Continental Trailways type buses you will be disappointed. It looks like Belize and Guatemala are where all the old US school buses go to die because that's all I saw in the way of public transportation. But... it's extremely cheap and well run. The passengers are very polite and well groomed. I got the feeling that for a lot of them, a bus trip was as much an event as a plane trip is to most other people. As far as meals go, I had one meal at EVA'S in San Ignacio. I didn't much like the food or the cramped atmosphere. I had the beef curry and wound up putting most of the "beef" back on the plate after unsuccessfully chewing on it for a few minutes. Maybe the chicken curry would have been a better choice. Anyway, I much preferred MARTHA'S KITCHEN about a block away. The club sandwich is yummy and they have several tables outside where you get a better view of the assortment of people walking by.

Here are some prices (all in US dollars):

Air departure tax from Belize $15

Taxi between the Belize City airport and Belize City $15

Bus between Belize City and San Ignacio (leaves hourly, takes 2 1/2 hours) $2.50

Balmoral Hotel $15 single

Departure tax from Belize at Guatemalan border $3.25 (good for multiple land departures for 30 days. Save the receipt. It can be applied towards the $15 air departure tax)

Entrance fee to Guatemala $5 (I only had to pay it once even though I crossed twice on successive days.) There was no departure fee from Guatemala on the return trip. Entrance fee to Tikal $10 per person or 50 quetzales. With the exchange rate being about 5.6, quetzales are a better deal than dollars.

Guide at Tikal if you want one $10

Beer in Belize $2

Beer in Guatemala about 75 cents

E-mail sent from Eva's restaurant $2.50

Club sandwich at Martha's Kitchen $2.25

That's about it. As for the weather, it was extremely humid and there was rain about half the time. There were no breezes at all. It was a lot like being in a steam bath unless in a moving vehicle with the windows down or in a place with a fan. Curtis Anderson, Burleson, Texas November 1997

* TIKAL INN: The Jaguar Inn which was supposed to have our reservation goofed it up, so we stayed here one night. There is a nice pool, and there is a restaurant for guests. You have to make a reservation in advance for dinner which is 7 p.m. to 10 p.m., and is a single set menu with no choices. We had a double bed and two twin beds, a rack for clothes, and a private bathroom. There were chairs around the pool, but at dusk it gets a little mosquito-y. There is only electricity for a short time at night. We had dinner for two here for US$20 -- tomato-squash soup, stewed chicken, green beans, pickled julienne beets, potatoes, flour tortillas, hot tea, and flan for dessert. All very good. We then stayed one night at the JAGUAR INN. They have electricity only from 6 p.m.to 9 p.m. There was a private bath, but no windows in the bathroom so you couldn't see without electricity. We didn't find that there was any hot water. We had twin beds, and there was a bedside table on which were two candles, and a water jug and glasses. We didn't eat in the restaurant here. Reservations for this and also I think the Jungle Lodge are relayed from Flores by radio as there is no phone. The people that are running the inn mostly do not speak English at all, or not very much. Two nights for two people at the two hotels, with private baths, came to US$96. Dinner for two at the COMEDOR TIKAL -- fried chicken, french fries and rice and a drink, plus a liter of water -- was around US$13. Rosalie Beasley. Leonardtown, Maryland

* DON DAVID'S BUNGALOWS, El Remate: Located about 2 miles north of the intersection of the main road from the Belize/Guatemala border and the road from Flores to Tikal, this is a perfect stopping place for visits to Tikal and Lake Peten Itza. After entering El Remate, his place is about 200 yards past the first building on the left or west side of the road to Tikal. Over the past two years I have stayed at Don's and found it charming and very reasonable. David Kuhn and his lovely wife and daughter run a very clean, small set of about eight rooms that sleep from two to six. The main house is two-story and includes the office and storerooms on the first floor with a kitchen, dining room, and the owner's living quarters on the second floor. There are four outbuilding that house nice size rooms, each with its own bath. There is no electricity in El Remate, but David uses solar collectors and a generator to power up batteries to power the 12-volt lighting. Water is from a community spring that he filters. I treated it again just for caution's sake. The showers are clean and well made of ceramic tile. The buildings are well kept and the rooms are very clean. The windows are screened and we did not suffer from mosquitoes. Obviously there is no air-conditioning or fans, but being near the lake, it is not too bad. There is a slight breeze from the lake in the evening. There is a thatched raised open hut that has four hammocks strung that overlooks the lake which is due west less then 50 yards from the back of his property. Sunsets are very nice and some elect to sleep here. There is a sandy beach, quite small, about 100 yards up the road that is open to the community. There is a seven-foot fence around the hotel, and you can park your vehicle inside the fence next to your room. David's wife cooks excellent meals on request and will pack you a lunch if you plan to be out during the day. The meals are family style with some choice each day. Fresh fruit and vegetables were always available. David is formerly from Florida and much of his hotel shows his Florida background. He has made extensive use of local materials and help, but it would make most visitors feel at home. His family helped to make me feel at home. The discussion during the evening meals were very interesting. During my visits he had guests from Israel, Denmark, England, and Germany. I believe they all felt at home. The stay is about US$5 to $8 per person per night depending on the room. Three of us stayed for $22 in a room with one double bed, two bunks, and a single. Meals are US$2 to $3 for breakfast and US$3.75 for lunch or dinner. There is a community phone +502-926-0269 that you can call to make an appointment to reach David or his wife. If you tell them it is a fax call, they can handle that as well. He will take reservations. He does not accept credit cards. He does offer a fair rate of exchange for US and Belize currency and will accept traveler's checks. Hint: Take Guatemalan currency, Quetzales $25 for entrance fee for Tikal. The federal ticket taker will take US c urrency, but only at a lower rate than you can get anywhere else. It is about 6 Quetzales to 1 US dollar most places, but at the gate, they will only give 5 to 1. Bruce McNellie, May-June 1997

* CASONA DE ISLA, Flores (tel. +502-926-0510, fax 926-0593.) This is a very nice hotel built on the island in Lake Petan Itza in the Petan district of Guatemala. This is a three- or four-star hotel, in my opinion, with air- conditioned rooms. It is similar to a Holiday Inn in cleanliness and service. It has a pool with a waterfall that overlooks the lake with tables that are perfect for breakfast. They have a nice menu. The rooms encircle the pool and all rooms look toward the lake. The lobby is tastefully done with marble floors and pastel-colored walls. Lots of pictures of early adventurers of the area are on the walls. The prices are about US$30 for a room that will sleep four. The baths are tile, as are the floors. The rooms are clean, and the service people are very friendly and helpful. Most of the time we could find someone who could help us with our very poor Spanish language skills. They have bottled water in the rooms as an extra service, no charge. There is jet service at the airport just two or three miles away and there are several cab companies that serve the island via a causeway. The island is about one-half mile square and has numerous shops where most of the merchants also live. The merchandise is very good quality generally and reasonable. There are also several travel agencies and tour guides on the island. Boat tours are available and boats including kayaks and sculling craft are available for rent. It is clearly a tourist area, but not offensively so. The streets are cobblestone and there is an excellent folk art museum and Spanish cathedral in the center of the island. The island seemed safe day and night with a few night clubs and excellent restaurants with reasonable prices. The main part of Flores seemed less safe, but all right during the day in the center areas of the town. This was my fourth trip to the island and those that have been with me really like it. It is about three hours from the border, with the first 10 miles from the border the worst. At times it has been the roughest roads ever. At mile 37 it hits the paved road from Flores to Tikal National park. In years past it has been a nightmare the entire 37 miles. It will shake the teeth out of your head and the tail pipe off your vehicle. If it is raining, a 4WD vehicle or a heavy duty vehicle is recommended. We had a Ford Bronco this year and it did not feel heavy enough for that rough a road. If you drive, we benefited from having a letter from the Guatemalan embassy in Houston that stated that there was to be no charge for taking vehicle over into Guatemala. In years past they have tried to charge as much as US$40 extra "tax" for our vehicle. This year with the letter we got in for about US$6 plus a US$5 spraying charge. There is also a small fee, US$3 to $5, for each individual to enter the country. At about 5 kilometers in from the border there is a military outpost that will often stop you to ask if you are carrying any fruit or drugs. They have never bothered us, but it is a little surprising to be stopped in the middle of nowhere by 15- and 16-year-olds carrying machine guns. Bruce McNellie, May-June 1997