I was fortunate to be taken to dinner at MAYA BEACH HOTEL AND BISTRO. I’d been told by many that this Bistro by the beach is one of the best restaurants in all of Belize, and having eaten there I have to agree. Owners John and Ellen Lee (he’s Australian, she’s American) traveled the world and worked in over 20 countries. They obviously figured out what travelers love. The Bistro menu changes frequently, but among the standards are fresh ceviche, snapper stack, five-onion cioppino and cocoa-dusted pork chop on a risotto cake. You’ll pay around US$12 to $25 for entrees here. The hotel, with six rooms, is small but charming. Rooms are bargains at around US$65 to $100 double. There are some minimum-stay requirements. Maya Beach Hotel also rents several apartments and houses nearby. Maya Beach, tel. 501/520-8040 or 800/503-5124 in the U.S.; www.mayabeachhotel.com.

LARU BEYA is a nice addition to the lodging options. It’s a condo colony on seven beachfront acres just south of Robert’s Grove. The larger villa units, with up to three bedrooms, have full kitchens, and some have rooftop Jacuzzis and verandahs with sea views. Rates start at US$100 for a garden view room, but you can pay as much as US$475 for a seaside penthouse. Seine Bight, tel. 501/523-3476 or 800/813-7762 in the U.S. and Canada; www.larubeya.com

CHABIL MAR VILLAS, a gated condo development just north of Placencia Village that opened in June 2005, has some of the most upscale and beautifully decorated condos I’ve seen in Belize. The property was developed by Dianne Bulman, a Canadian. Chabil Mar means "beautiful sea" in Kekchí, and the beach here is one of the best on the peninsula. Each unit is different, but they're all very upscale, with features like marble floors, original art, and four-poster king beds. Each unit comes with broadband wireless, DVD, satellite TV, dishwasher, and washer and dryer. Rates are US$260 to $550 in-season, a little less in summer. There's no restaurant, but you can have meals prepared and brought to your condo. Just north of Placencia Village, tel. 501/523-3606; www.chabilmarvillas.com.

TURTLE INN and ROBERT'S GROVE are still doing gangbusters business. SAKS AT PLACENCIA looks just like it did when it was Kitty’s, and in fact even better, but I don’t know, it just doesn’t seem like the same place.

--Lan Sluder, January 2006

* We have returned from holiday in Belize and would like to thank Lan Sluder for recommending the LOST REEF RESORT at Placencia. We were looking for accommodation that would suit all budgets within our party and after your suggestion of the Lost Reef we made our booking. As our requirement was for 4 cabanas we rented the resort of 5 cabanas for the week.  As soon as we arrived in Placencia we were made to feel welcome by Paul, the owner, and his staff. The Lost Reef felt like home after only a couple of hours. As there were 6 of us (2 hard of hearing) everything was decided by committee (twice) and Paul was very patient with us. The situation of the resort was perfect, right on the beach with fishing, canoes and swimming pool. The cabanas were maybe not brand new but they had everything we needed. The cabana facing directly to the sea was incredible, couldn't have asked for more as a honeymooning couple. The evening meals at Caroliens Grill were superb and the breakfasts even better. Paul prides himself on a good breakfast and certainly lived up to it. The evening menu was limited however this was a good thing - it had the old favourites for those of us with conservative tastes and variety with the catch of the day. Always left the table stuffed but not too stuffed not to enjoy one of Paul's concocted cocktails. The rum and mixers were fantastic everywhere - may the English pub measure never darken the door of Belize. My mother was worried she would go home an alcoholic! Didn't stop her though.  The first week at the CARIBBEAN VILLAS on Ambergris Caye will always be special as we were married at the end of the pier, however I felt that I had to write about The Lost Reef, it was magical.  We are so glad we went to Belize. Initially it was for the diving but there was so much else to do in the country that we only had 2 days diving. The amount wildlife blew us away and we so want to return and see everything again and things we missed.  Juliet Harrison, nee Coles, Ivybridge, Devon, England (October 2005)

* Just returned from a great 9 days in Belize. Found Lan Sluder's book Adapter Kit: Belize quite educational. This is a unique little country. We spent two nights at BLUE CREEK VILLAGE BED & BREAKFAST  (Orange Walk District) owned by John & Judy Klaasen who are Mennonites. This was really a quiet, friendly & scenic place to stay. Also inexpensive. From there we were fortunate enough to be allowed to drive through Gallon Jug to San Ignacio. It took a few calls but the scenic drive was sure worth it. We spent our last 3 days near Placencia at Gary & Ann Miller's - MILLER'S LANDING.  Really enjoyed this place as well. Only real problems we had were rental car problems - leaky radiator, clutch troubles, and a flat tire. The roads really take their toll, don't they? Willy, who seemed to be the local handyman/mechanic/taxi driver was very helpful and quite a colorful guy. Only thing was, it seemed to cost $25 Bze no matter what the repair. We thought that quite comical.   Thought I'd just drop a line and let you know a bit about our trip.  Thanks for your help,  Dave Neubauer, February 2005

*  I have stayed at the INN AT ROBERT'S GROVE three or four times since it opened in 1997, and like a good cabernet it just seems to improve over the years. This time, in the so-called off-season in July, the hotel was almost completely booked, and I think it was 100% full one night. Robert and Risa Frackman truly have their fingers on the pulse of their market. They understand what upscale travelers want, and they deliver the entire package: beach, sports (water toys are free, and there’s a fitness room and tennis courts, plus fly fishing center and dive shop), spa, tours (they’ve added horseback riding through Little Hill Bill Ranch in San Roman village) and good food. They’ve had the same chef for years, Frank daSilva. Indeed, each time I return I see many of the same hotel staff, always a good sign. A highlight of the week is the Saturday evening poolside barbecue, with all you-can-eat lobster, fish, chicken and shrimp. My son, in his last year at Harvard (and thank the tuition gods for that) would travel to Belize just for this one meal. For 2005, Robert’s Grove is adding room service.

This trip, my family and I had one of the deluxe two-bedroom condo units, and it was a delight. The Frackmans have purchased the property just south of the resort, adding another 200 ft. of beachfront. Under construction on this land are two new “haciendas,” each of which will have two ground-floor two-bedroom condos and on the second floor a three-bedroom unit, which as I understand it will be a flex unit which can be rented in various configurations. Bob and Risa also are building a third swimming pool for these new units. Several hotels in Belize have two pools, including the Radisson Fort George, Turtle Inn and Banana Beach, but this will be the first with three. Robert’s Grove is shooting for completion of the new haciendas and pool late this year. Robert’s Grove has also upgraded its regular rooms, with a new paint scheme and other improvements. They look 100% better, and I can now say that even if you don’t choose a suite you’ll be happy with Robert’s Grove.

After a stay in Placencia, we headed out to the resort’s new private island option, Robert’s Caye, about 10 miles off Placencia. We were one of the first to try it out, and I’m happy to say we enjoyed it. Perched around on the island “Bora Bora style” are four newly built thatch cabañas. They’re situated partly over the water, so you can actually enter the sea from your cabañas for swimming or snorkeling. If you swim out a little ways there’s a good bit of patch coral, and you can expect to see a variety of fish, lobsters, starfish and other sea life. Yes, the island is small, hardly more than a spit of sand, and the cabins aren’t air-conditioned, but there’s hot and cold running water and most of the units enjoy a stiff sea breeze to cool them down. Packages include all meals, boat transfers, use of kayaks and snorkel equipment, and drinks and beer, so all you have to worry about is not getting sunburned. The Frackmans own Robert’s Caye, and they still lease another island, Ranguana, which has three cabins (with newly installed bathrooms). Ranguana is larger and has a fabulous setting on the reef, about 18 miles out from Placencia.

Inn at Robert’s Grove, Placencia, Stann Creek District; tel. 501-523-3565
or 800-565-9757, fax 501-523-3567; e-mail info@robertsgrove.com, www.robertsgrove.com. Rates at the main resort: US$179-$500 double in-season, US$130 to $300 off-season. Meal plan is another US$55 per person per day. At Robert’s Caye, all-inclusive rates (all meals, drinks, transportation) are US$347 per person for one night, with discounts for longer stays; at Ranguana the rate is US$323 per person all-inclusive.  --Lan Sluder, Asheville, NC, and Belize, August 2004


PLACENCIA ODDS AND ENDS
To pave or not to pave -- that is the question. Until recently, it was a “firm thing” that the road from the Southern Highway to Placencia would be paved in Spring 2005. Now, with the budget crisis, apparently it’s not so firm after all. The paving has been postponed. Currently, only short sections of the road at Seine Bight and Placencia villages are surfaced. •  Even with all the changes on the peninsula, most of which I applaud, I still like some of the old style places. Wendy’s restaurant, for example, in the village. While it hasn’t been in Placencia too long, Wendy’s reminds me of the old Belize dining rooms. Atmosphere it has none, and on a hot night it can be stuffy despite the air-conditioning. But the service is friendly as pie. I do believe I had the best meal of the entire trip there. It was just a simple grilled fish, but oh so tasty, and even with some beer well under US$10. • The new “owners” of Luba Hati took off unexpectedly. Franco is back. The hotel is temporarily closed. • Septic tanks are out; sewers are in. Word is that no more septic tanks will be allowed for new commercial or multi-lot building building projects on the peninsula. • The troubled Serenity resort has been closed by order of the government. • Ellen Lee and her husband bought the Maya Beach Hotel in April and are upgrading it. In October the hotel has plans to open the Maya Beach Hotel Bistro, serving meals to guests and the public. Double rooms goes for US$65-$85 in low season and US$ 85 to $105 in high. • Lost Reef at Riversdale is open under new management. Rooms and grounds have been upgraded, a swimming pool has been added, and there’s a pleasant bar and restaurant. Each of the five cabins goes for US$89 double. • Nautical Inn has a new operator. • Rum Point Inn is for sale for US$3.5 million. Among other hotels and resorts reportedly for sale on the peninsula are Kitty’s Place, Manatee Inn, Maya Breeze Inn and Green Parrot. • Kitty’s, by the way, looks incredibly good these days. What a beautiful pool Kitty has added, and the beach remains in my opinion one of the two or three best on the entire peninsula. Next door, Mariposa is also looking great. It’s a charming little place.  Lan Sluder, August 2004

*  Hotels are getting bigger in Placencia.  One of the owners of   ZEBOZ, the new condotel north of Maya Beach, says he plans eventually to have 144 units. According to some reports, another large resort at the north end of the peninsula is in the works for a tract of The Plantation land. I did stay the night at Zeboz. One of the most impressive things about Zeboz is the size of the swimming pool. It’s like a lake. Without question, this is the biggest pool in Belize. I only ate breakfast at the restaurant, so I can’t report firsthand on the food, but the dining room is large and pleasantly proportioned. It is lined all around with big windows, so you enjoy a wonderful view of the Caribbean. The beach is a very good one. If you like a condo-style place with ice-cold A/C, jacuzzis, kitchenettes and that jumbo pool, you’ll probably like Zeboz. Zeboz Caribbean Resort, Placencia, Stann Creek District; tel. 501-520-4110, fax 520-4112; e-mail info@zeboz.com, www.zeboz.com. Rates: US$175-$225 year-round, with some packages available. Meal plan is US$65 per day per person.  --Lan Sluder, August 2004

* This trip, I got to test drive the new TURTLE INN. The original Turtle Inn was a fixture for many years in Placencia, when the late Skip White ran it. A couple of years ago, it was bought by Francis Ford Coppola and soon reopened as Blancaneaux's Turtle Inn. Then, in October 2001, a nasty lady named Iris paid a visit to Placencia, and Turtle Inn was virtually blown away. After a complete rebuild, Turtle Inn reopened around the turn of the year. The first few months of operation weren't exactly smooth, and I heard quite a few complaints about ongoing construction and reservation foul-ups, though others raved about the Balinese design. I wasn't sure what to expect, but I can tell you the new Turtle Inn knocked me out. My family and I had a two-bedroom sea front villa, and you couldn't ask for anything nicer or more stylish. The villas and many of the single cabanas sit just feet from the sea, so the gentle lap-lap of the Caribbean soothes you, and the prevailing offshore breeze keeps you cool. (There is at present no air-conditioning, so on a calm summer day I do fear it can get pretty warm.) Our villa was a pure delight. In some ways, the villas at Turtle Inn remind me of those at Blancaneaux Lodge: The bay-thatch ceiling soars high, there's a wide screened porch across the front, and the main living area has comfy seating and a fridge. The two bathrooms are in the Japanese-style, with both showers and tiled square tubs (there also are outdoor garden showers, which are more fun than you'd think.) But, unlike Blancaneaux, the villas and cabanas at Turtle Inn are Balinese in inspiration, with wonderful art and furnishing, and even the doors, picked out personally, I'm told, in Indonesia by Mr. Coppola and his wife, and imported in 14 container loads. We also got a tour of Mr. Coppola's personal villa, the Pavilion, which is available for hotel guests when the director isn't there. It has several extra touches, such as saunas in the bathrooms, not in the regular villas. Pavilion also comes with its own private pool. We sneaked a swim in the Coppola pool, though normally it is reserved for use by the party in the Pavilion Villa. But even if you don't stay in the Pavilion Villa, you'll be very happy with the main pool. The large turtle-shaped, zero-effect pool, between the restaurant and the beach, is one of the best in Belize. The beach itself is one of the better ones on the peninsula. There's no pier, but Turtle Inn has plans for a marina on the lagoon side. I found the food, service, amenities and staff responsiveness all very accommodating. A new manager, Ian Lizarraga, came on board about the same time we arrived. Ian is Belizean, young but with a lot of experience in hotel management at Chaa Creek and Cayo Espanto. The upscale made-in-Belize bath soaps, shampoos and lotions delighted my wife and daughter, who also were given Balinese sarongs. We had a walk-talkie to hail our houseman should we need anything. The open-air restaurant with a sunken sand floor is as tropical as you could want. The restaurant features seafood and Italian specialties. Like Blancaneaux, Turtle Inn has a wood-burning pizza oven and serves excellent wines from the Niebaum-Coppla winery. Every meal I had at Turtle Inn was excellent, though not cheap. A continental breakfast of fresh-baked breads and fruits is included in the room rate. Off-season (May 1 to December 19), Turtle Inn caba–as are US$175 to $200 double, and villas US$300 to $400 (the Pavilion Villa is US$600.) Winter rates are US$275 to $300 for caba–as, US$400 to $575 for villas (US$1,000 for Pavilion.) Christmas rates slightly higher. Rates are plus 7% hotel tax and 10% service. For information, contact http://www.blancaneaux.com Lan Sluder, Asheville, NC, July 2003

About a month ago, I had asked for your opinion on hotels - Turtle Inn, Robert's Grove or Victoria Inn. Because we were able to get a low rate at the TURTLE INN (on the cusp of low season and with an additional 20% discount) you recommended Turtle Inn. And I'm so glad we went there. We stayed in the least expensive cabana (Sea View Cottage). It was truly 5-star luxurious. We were lucky with weather. Although a bit of rain passed through each day, we always had sun. The cabana was impressive with our own screened in porch, the hand-carved Balinese furniture and woodwork, the cathedral ceilings and the fabulous indoor/outdoor private shower/bath. (We also got a kick out of the "shell phone"). The new manager is ironing out the kinks of what is a movie-set perfect-looking resort. A few gripes in an otherwise perfect setting - Everyone stumbled getting back to their cabanas/villas at night due to insufficient lighting on the walkway - also uneven stone pathways. While the restaurant looks picture perfect (and the bar/restaurant cabana on the beach is a fabulous casual alternative) the food at the Gaugin restaurant is nothing special, in fact, a bit disappointing. Also, they need a pier like the Inn at Robert's Grove with a cabana at the end (we visited there one night and were so glad we had stayed at the Turtle Inn!). The turtle grass (or whatever the seaweed-looking stuff is growing on the shallow waters off Turtle Inn) makes swimming there a little unpleasant and not great snorkeling. I think a pier would help. Anyway, we were so lucky to have stayed there for the minimal amount of$163/night including tax/hotel service. In addition, we were able to switch our reservations and spend the last two days in the Cayo District at the Blancaneaux Lodge. We drove into the Mayan Mountains with the carpenters who had been working at the Turtle Inn in two pickup trucks packed with furniture Beverly Hillbilly-style! What an adventure. It was incredible to see two such divergent worlds. I wish we had been able to stay longer. One more thing. Mosquitoes! So glad we brought DEET, but even that didn't stop them. Some people reacted more adversely to the bites, but they seemed to linger for weeks after getting home (along with wonderful memories). As a children's author, I'm interested in stories native to the country -I didn't have too much success. If you know of a source, would you let me know? Once again, many thanks for pointing us in the right direction. It was a memorable trip to a fascinating country.   Kathryn Gibbs Davis, December 2003

If you want something more intimate and personal than a hotel, let me tell you about MARIPOSA. This is the private home of Marcia and Peter Fox, a charming couple who moved to Placencia several years ago from Marin County, California. They offer two ground-floor suites, each with a bedroom, bath and full kitchen. Although several good restaurants are within walking distance, if you prefer to cook in, the Foxes can arrange to stock groceries and fresh fruits and vegetables ready for when you arrive. The suites have folding doors that open for a great view. Each suite has its own little thatch palapa on the private beach. The suites are nicely decorated, too; check out the Maya glyphs, hand-painted by the artist who did the murals at Jaguar Paw, along the top of the walls. The grounds are beautiful, and the location is convenient, next door to KittyÕs. ThereÕs also a small casita around back, though it doesn't enjoy the cooling breezes from the water. Rates: US$110 double off-season and US$125 in winter, plus 7% tax and 10% service. Check out http://www.mariposabelize.com or e-mail foxbuddy@btl.net, call 501-523-4069, fax 523-4076. Lan Sluder, Asheville, NC, July 2003

Speaking of eating - one of my favorite subjects - Robert Frackman invited us to the Saturday night barbecue at the INN AT ROBERT'S GROVE. All I can say is: Fantastic!! There was a big crowd gathered around the pool, and Bob said the hotel was full. We stuffed ourselves with delicious lobster, shrimp and fish. Robert's Grove looks as wonderful as ever, and it remains one of the best and most popular beach resorts in the western Caribbean. If you stay here, I highly recommend you spend the extra bucks for a deluxe suite (one or two-bedrooms). They're huge, beautifully furnished, with phones and cable TV, and the air-conditioning really works. I also did quick visits to a number of other hotels on the peninsula: RUM POINT, where there's a new manager, Sheila Knox. Corol Bevier is still in residence (George Bevier, one of the pioneers of Belize tourism, sadly passed away last year); GREEN PARROT, BARNACLE'S BILLS, NAUTICAL INN and several other of my favorite places. There's a lot going on in Placencia these days. We hear talk of a new international airport across the lagoon -- maybe, possibly, some day -- and more immediate plans to extend the present Placencia airstrip out into the Caribbean. The new Maya Island terminal makes the airstrip look like a real airport. Now, if they could just get that damn road paved. A lot of the activity is at the north end of the peninsula: The Plantation keeps expanding and making big plans. We hear there are one, or perhaps two, 18-hole golf courses planned or at least proposed. CALICO JACK'S has a new manager, Robert Marlin, son-in-law of the developer. I'll reserve comment (for now) on the ZEBOZ condo/timeshare development next door. ItÕs supposed to open later this year, with condo suites, tennis courts and a 10,000 square foot seafood restaurant. In-season rates have been set for US$185. Seems like there's a for-sale sign every few yards in Placencia these days. Building lots are for sale all up and down the peninsula, though many have already sold to foreigners who want a piece of the Caribbean. Luba Hati has sold, IÕm told, though owners Franco and Mariucci are said to be staying on in Placencia. KittyÕs is still on the market (believe itÕs nearly sold twice, but things didn't work out.) This resort looks better than ever. Among other hotels for sale: Soulshine, Nautical Inn, Maya Breeze Inn, Singing Sands and Placencia Lagoon Resort. Mango's, the restaurant in Maya Beach, is also for sale. The former Seine Bight Hotel/Bahai Laguna is rotting away. Someone asked me recently why so many places are for sale in Placencia. I'm not sure myself. Part of it has to do with the seasonal nature of business in Placencia. Summer can be pretty dead, and it's tough to make a resort pay when you have to get most of your income in the winter. Iris, of course, had an impact. But a lot of it has to do with the fact that many resort operators come to Placencia with a dream but not much practical experience in the hotel business. If you want to catch up on all the news of Placencia, the best place (besides WallenÕs store) is Mary Toy's Destinations Belize Web site (http://www.destinationsbelize.com). This trip, I ran into Mary at Lobster Fest, where she womanning the Humane Society Booth. Lan Sluder, Asheville, NC, July 2003

* I had a wonderful time in Belize last August, so I thought I'd share a few moments of the trip. I live in London, a great, but noisy and crowded city, so I wanted to get away, away from the city, away from too many people, and just have some time to relax. I was looking for a place that could offer the amenities of the usual Caribbean destinations, but without the usual noise pollution of clubs closing at 5 am and drunk people staggering home. There is nothing wrong with it, but that's pretty much what London is like every weekend (minus the sun, sea and good food). Belize seemed like an ideal option. Friends had recommended it as offering a wonderful sense of calm, the most laid-back atmosphere they had ever experienced, great water and diving, plus opportunities to visit the rain forest and ancient ruins. They were absolutely right.

I first went to Placencia, a peninsula in the south of Belize. There are two villages there, Seine Bight and Placencia. I recommend you stay in Placencia - while I did want to relax, I also wanted to be able to got to a nice little restaurant and bar on the beach, rather than hardly seeing any people at all. At Seine Bight I stayed in the NAUTICAL INN, which was fine and practically on the beach (although I found the owner a bit intrusive). I then moved to the MANATEE INN in Placencia, which turned out to be a fantastic decision. The Manatee Inn is a small, cosy hotel with six bedrooms, 30 seconds walk from the beach. The owners, a young Czech-Canadian couple called Lenka and Slavek, really make you feel completely at home. After a day I felt like I was amongst friends and for the first time completely put the City behind me. With Lenka laughing in the background, and Slavek showing off the barracuda and kingfish he had caught that day, I had finally arrived! Life suddenly was very easy. There are many things you can do in the area, using Placencia as a base. Lenka and Slavek have a friend who has a sailing boat. You can hire him at great value to take you to some of the beautiful, uninhabited islands a few miles away from the coast. While you snorkel (or continue dozing in the sun, still in disbelief about how lucky you are to be there), he dives down and catches fresh lobster and snapper, which he then barbecues on the beach, using dried coconuts instead of charcoal. One of the most memorable days of my life. You can also book trips to the reef, go fishing (and I mean, FISHING, 60 miles
out to catch the most amazing fish), diving or make a trip to the rain forest or even Tikal in
Guatemala. After a few days I decided to go to Tikal and took a local bus to the Guatemalan border. I recommend this mode of travel - it's pleasant enough, the streets are fine and you get to see a fair bit of the country side. Tikal itself is spectacular, but if you are short of time, one day is enough - the territory worth seeing is fairly compact. I flew back, this time to go to Belize City and from there immediately by water taxi to Ambergris Caye. Ambergris is great to relax as well, but there are more people, much more hotels and several clubs. The atmosphere is still more laid-back than in most of the Caribbean, but it is also fairly American, rather than Belizean as it is in Placencia. It is still great, however, and I would recommend you go and see both if you have the time. During the day I went diving a lot and during the night I enjoyed the excellent shrimps and lobster. Caye Caulker, easily reached by water taxi, is also worth a trip. Many people would say that more so than Ambergris Caye. It is the epitome of laid-back, but it may be too quiet for some - during the day, I came across about 20 people, and I walked around the whole island. Accommodation in both places is cheap and of a good standard. I can't really specifically recommend any hotel I used - the owners did not really mix with the guests, I had no motivation to be there other than for sleep and have forgotten the places' names. But they were fine and real good value for money. I started to miss the cosiness of Placencia and the Manatee in, so I decided to go back and flew there to stay for another few days until I had to bid a tearful farewell to Belize and Lenka and Slavek. I travelled in the last two weeks of August, but the weather was fantastic. There was only one half-day where it rained after 7am or before 10 pm. I didn't have any encounters with sand flies and only very few with mosquitoes - but they were there, so make sure you have some strong insect repellent containing DEET. If you do, you'll be fine - don't believe the horror stories. I hope you have as great a stay in Belize as I did! Lukas Kratochvil, London, England, August 2002

* My husband and I just returned from our first trip to Belize, including a 5 night stay at BARNACLE BILL'S BEACH BUNGALOWS in Maya Beach. I know you have been recommending Barncale Bill's -- your comments and those on your website from travelers helped us select it. I just want to second the
motion -- it was perfect!

I could write a 100-point list of things we loved about BBs: The cabins were immaculate; the kicthen had
plenty of clean/new pots and pans and untensils; there's free local coffee along with the coffee-maker;
there's a private, white-sand beach literally outside your door and lots of vegetation all around (great
bird-watching); the water in front is quite shallow -- great for dips and playing around (and safer for kids,
I would imagine); there are hammocks and comfortable chairs all around; there are good places
to eat and drink if you choose (Mangos was simple, fresh and tasty); and there is the market right there
(new post-Iris, they said) if you choose to save money (!!) by cooking on your own (we did 3 of 5
nights). Also, of course, cooking also means you get to go to local shops and get some sense of the local
culture.

...and Bill and Adriane, just like everyone says, are adorable and totally helpful. I e-mailed Adriane a
bunch of times before we went, and she always got right back to me and made everything easy
(directions, what to bring, stocking the fridge). Once we arrived they gave us lots of privacy, but also were
available and friendly and helpful ... they invited us to play volleyball at a neighbor's house; they drove the
two kayaks (free for use!) over to the lagoon and gave us pointers for a kayak trip that turned out to be
wonderful; they arranged snorkeling (with Alberto) with pick-up from the beach right there; they let us
use their gas grill; and they just generally made us feel at home. That's really it: Barnacle Bill's is like
having your own little home on the beach!

Also, the price is right, and so are their policies. I really did not like being asked to pay in full in
advance (in August, no less) at other establishments. I have never encountered that in the
US and it was a turn-off . BB's just asked for a one-night deposit, which to me seems completely
reasonable.

Bill and Adriane are just nice, reasonable people and they give you a great feeling from start to finish. I
know I must sound like a commerical, but it really was perfect. Thanks very much for all the info you put out there! Carolyn Thall, Cambridge, Mass., August 2002


* INN AT ROBERT'S GROVE (tel. 700-565-9757 or 501-6-23565 , fax 6-23567, e-mail info@robertsgrovebelize.com, www.robertsgrovebelize.com ) The typical guest at Robert’s Grove may not realize what a tremendous feat Bob and Risa Frackman have accomplished with their beachside resort in Seine Bight, which opened in late 1997. To create a smoothly functioning five-star property on what is still a somewhat remote peninsula, where most in the local labor pool may never have worked at any job except in the home or fishing, where fresh fruits, vegetables and meats and other supplies have to be brought in from Dangriga or Belize City or even farther afield, and where the basic infrastructures of resort life, from electricity to transportation, are not always reliable, is nothing short of amazing. But the newly expanded resort, now with 32 units, is definitely five star. The staff is remarkably well trained, with everything working with few glitches even in Bob and Risa’s absence (they were back in New York when I was there). The air conditioning is cold (though the unit in my children’s room required a little tweaking.) The meals in the restaurant, under Chef Frank DaSilva’s guiding hand, were dependably well prepared and nicely presented. My wife and I stayed in one of the new “deluxe suites.” These are condo units built to be sold, starting at around US$185,000, and then managed by the hotel when the owners aren’t in residence. Whether this idea will fly in Placencia we don’t know (though we’re told four units have been sold so far), our unit was a delight, with a large, strikingly decorated living room -- a happy melange of Mexican tile, Guatemalan fabrics and African art -- with cable TV, verandah with a sea view, a bedroom with king-size bed with a luxuriously firm new U.S.-made mattress and a jumbo bathroom with a big, tiled combination bath and shower. The resort has facilities still missing at many other Belize resorts -- not one but two swimming pools, roof-top, tennis courts, computer room, work-out room and complimentary use of small sailboats, kayaks, bikes and other equipment. There’s a tour desk, PADI dive center and a sandy beach where you can actually swim. Rates, while not cheap, do not leave you with the impression that you are being held up at Amex-point. Indeed, by Caribbean standards for a top resort, the rates are remarkably low. My son and I revisited for in June 2002 and found everything just as first-rate as ever. We stayed in a deluxe two-bedroom condo unit with kitchen, which was wonderful. We think the deluxe suites are well worth the extra money. The Saturday beach barbecue was terrific. A new restaurant has been completed on the lagoon side, at the marina and near the dive shop. This restaurant, set to open in late 2002, will be more casual than the beachside restaurant. The Moorings is set to bring some of its charter boats to the Robert's Grove marina (The Moorings, by the way, has been very successful in Placencia since its November 2001 opening.) Lan Sluder, June 2002 and August 2001

* After landing in Belize City, we rented a 4x4 Isuzu Trooper from our good friend Kevin Lewis
of LEWIS AUTO RENT and drove down to Placencia. We found that the road from Belize City to Belmopan is in great shape as is the newly surfaced entire length of the Hummingbird Highway. On the Hummingbird Highway, one has to watch out for quite a few "speed bumps" -- some of them are real Jaw Breakers and some of them are not clearly marked with warnings. In general they have
put a speed bump just before all of the bridges (several of the bridges are still under construction and they left some of the one lane bridges even though the new road is two lane) and there is a series of at least three
speed bumps at every village and town. We did find that a great deal of the new highway is "No Passing" with solid lines in the center of the road which can really get to be aggravating with any slow bus or truck or farm machinery heading in the same direction. They do need to put in more passing lanes in both directions to get the traffic moving better on the new road. A big surprise was that the Southern Highway is now paved and in wonderful shape past the Hopkins turnoff and the only real difficult part of the road was the last 15-20 miles to the Placencia turnoff as they are putting in the final fill and preparing this section for paving soon. Going down it had not rained for several days and the dust was horrendous behind the fill haulers. Once we turned onto the Placencia road it was smooth but dusty to the final curve onto the Placencia peninsula road. The peninsula road was greatly improved since we had last traveled it in June of 1999. They raised the entire length of the road by about a foot with solid material which although dusty, did not washboard nor were there pot holes. The last couple of miles into Seine Bight and through the village to after the ball field has been black top paved and several really jaw breaking speed bumps have been
installed. Also, a nice new grocery (not quite a Belize supermarket) has opened a couple of blocks north of the center of the village. On arrival at THE INN AT ROBERT’S GROVE, we were housed in one of the new "Condo/Hotel” units. There are 12 units located in three buildings just to the south of the main building. These units are identical, consisting of a large living room which can be converted to a living room/kitchen very easily as they are sold, a large bedroom with king size four-poster beds and a large bathroom with double vanities and a tile tub/shower. These units have vaulted ceilings, paddle fans, air conditioning, 40-channel cable TV and phones. There is a wide balcony on the Sea Side of each unit with hammock. The food is gourmet quality as Frank is still holding court in the kitchen and/or outdoor grill as the weather permits. Saturday morning we drove into Placencia for the opening of "Lobster Fest".
The road into town had been greatly improved as had the rest of the
Peninsula road and although dusty due to lack of rain it was smooth and not
washboardy. From the final curve through the village the road had been black
top paved which really cuts down on the dust in the village. There seems to be a lot of
discussion going on about how to make the roads safe now that they are
smooth and paved. Frankly, to us it seems a matter of attitude and
hopefully it will not take someone speeding and running over a child or
adult before it is stopped.

Only three years ago, Placencia decided that they were going to have a
Lobster Fest as Caye Caulker had done for several years. The first year, we
understand consisted of one booth operated by Frank the chef at Roberts
Grove serving Lobster Brochettes. Then last year they got some promotion and
several booths were manned and a local band and the drummers from Seine
Bight performed and a fishing contest was held among the local guides. All
of this brought out a lot of the villagers and some came down from Seine
Bight. This year with lots of pre-planning, there were 25+- booths some with
food and some with various items such as tee-shirts, toys, games and such.
They had the fishing contest which only the participants understood and even
then not fully. They put up two tents including one large one supplied by
Crystal Water under which they constructed a stage for the entertainment.

The food, primarily consisting of char-broiled lobster and chicken with some
sausages and such along with side dishes of salads and potatoes and rice was
well prepared and priced very reasonably. The entertainment consisted of a local band and the great drumming and dancing Garifuna group from Seine Bight. The Garifuna group played for a
couple of hours in the afternoon and if one can judge by the attention paid by a large part of the crowd was a great success.

This brings up the CROWD. I do mean a crowd. It seems that word had gotten
out not only to the peninsula but also to all of the villages and towns on
the mainland across the bay. By 3:30 it was difficult to move around in the
main area of the Fest. I did a quick and very informal count myself and
came up with about 1,000 people milling about at the end of the road which
was the location of the Fest. With closed buildings on two sides of this
area, the sea on one side of this area and the narrow road coming into the
area on the other this "T" shaped area had about all the people that it
could hold packed into it. To add to this, there was only one place to obtain any kind of a drink, be it beer, water, or soda pop. Bilikin, so I understand, offered to operate the
drink stand on the basis that they would share with the village as long as
the other businesses closed down. This added to the crowded central area.
Also, there was only one line to get any kind of drink which made it very
thirsty in the 85-90 degree full sun heat.

For later on, (10 p.m to 3 a.m.) they had engaged the #1 band in all of
Belize, "Santino's Messengers" who came down from Belize City. This band is
really very good and plays music which may be enjoyed by all age groups. It
is a shame that they did not allow them to play during the afternoon/early
evening hours where everyone could hear them. This was said by many people
who did not feel like staying up after a complete afternoon at the Fest.
(Caye Caulker had the same band and on Saturday they played the same hours, on
Sunday they started at 11:00 am and played every other hour until 6:00 pm.so
all got a chance to hear and enjoy them) Unlike a couple of our other visits to Placenica, the area was actually suffering from lack of rain. Finally, the day before we left on June 28 it did rain off and on and through the evening which made the trip back up the Peninsula, the Southern Highway and the Hummingbird very pleasant as there was no dust to interfere with the trip. Rick Paine, Enterprise, Florida, June 2001

* We just returned from a 10 day Christmas Holiday stay at RUM POINT INN in Placencia. We felt the facilities and services were terrible. We paid over US$200 a night (for 3 of us) for a room with mildewed pillows and walls and sheets so coarse and thin they wouldn't suffice as rags. The tubs are so poorly designed they are dangerous. I spoke with John, the manager, he replaced the pillows and sheets, the replacements were only marginally better. All of the other guests we had contact with were also disappointed in this "resort", some were quite angry. The food was the worse we had while in Placencia. The bikes were another insult, the hand grips missing or worn through on every bike, seats broken, tires flat. We took one tour on their boat to Laughing Bird Caye. We had cold cuts while another tour (Ocean Motion) fed their guests fresh fish and chicken cooked on an open fire and rice flavored with fresh coconut milk. I believe that tour was less than the US$60 each we paid. We snorkeled but other guests said the scuba dive was so disorganzied it was dangerous. The equipment was worse than anything we have ever used. We booked only one other tour through Rum Point. A Monkey River tour with Cagey. It was wonderful. Cagey is a great guide and hearing and seeing the howler monkeys a real treat. This couldn't have been better. We took three other tours. Two with TOADAL ADVENTURES that were unforgettable. I believe anything you do with them will be fun and worth the expense. We also took a night tour to Monkey River with Percy. It was not worth the time or money. We ate Pizza and drank at the PICKLED PARROT, several times. We had a couple of good breakfasts and enjoyed internet access at the PURPLE SPACE MONKEY. The chicken at the GALLEY was great. DAISEY'S was pretty good. In fact, we didn't have a meal in town that was bad. If we had it to do over again we would stay at the newly remodeled MANATEE INN. The rooms are small but very nicely done, the owners friendly and anxious to please, and it is right in town so there is no hassle with gettting back and forth. It's not much further from the beach than our rooms at Rum Point and the rooms are US$35/night and sleep two. Those rooms are not air conditioned but the rooms at SERANADE are and they are US$70/night. I didn't see those but met a woman staying there who was quite pleased. Wendy Haratyk, Corrales, New Mexico, December 2000.

* Our departure from Miami was delayed from 11:30 to after 3:00 pm which put us into Belize City about 3 pm Belize time. As we had driven to Placencia (our destination) before, we decided to go ahead and rent a vehicle and drive down that evening. We were pleased that quite a bit of the Hummingbird Highway had been paved and finished since our last visit in October 1998. There are still a few rough spots, but all in all you can make pretty good time now. We turned onto the Southern Highway, which has not improved, just at dusk. We were lucky that there was not a lot of traffic as the road was dry, washboardy and very dusty. At about 7:45 we turned east on the road which lead to Placencia. Everything was going smoothly until we came upon a stretch of road which was completely covered with water just as far as the highbeams on a Trooper will reach. We were about to turn around when someone came from the south through the water with a pickup truck showing us that the water was only a little over hub cap deep. Having the Trooper which sits higher and having 4x4 capabilities we decided to go ahead. Without any trouble we finally made it to our destination, the INN AT ROBERT'S GROVE. Coming in late to a small resort anywhere can interupt the routine. Frank, the chef and overall overseer, rounded up enough help to get our luggage taken care of and we registered the next morning. The Inn at Robert's Grove is one of the best resorts we have ever stayed at. The management and staff go out of their way to be sure that the guests have a good time and do this without being imposing. The next night, Sunday, we decided to eat in which started a habit as we ate in at Robert's Grove for seven of the eight nights we were there. The only exception being a night that we were invited to some friends' home for grilled fresh tuna. Chef Frank is a magician with food. His favorite dinner to fix is an outdoor Bar-BQ buffet which he presented two times while we were there. He does this on nights when the weather and wind are favorable for being outdoors. The typical menu is "in season" open grilled lobster, baby back ribs, huge crab claws, Italian sausage, and chicken, with several veggies and salads and rolls. Breakfast is served buffet style and although the choice is not great, the eggs or pancakes or french toast with bacon or sausage or ham are prepared well and delicious. Lunches we usually ate out. Activities: Each morning we were up early to watch the sunrise from one of the observation decks which tower above the second story of each of the buildings. This offers not only a good place to watch the sun come up, but, also a great place to watch the tropical birds such as parrots, paraqeets, toucans and others fly around in the canaopy as the platforms put you above the canopy. Only from up high are you able to see these birds which only seem to fly around the area within about an hour of sunrise. We spent one day on the Robert's Grove boat with our guide Herman. We snorkeled at three separate locations and even did some fishing around Robert's Caye. We had lunch on a table that Herman set up under the Bimini top on the boat. The snorkeling was great and the day was really fun. On another day we went fishing with our friend and guide Kevin Modera. Kevin picked us up about 7:30 and we headed east to fish for tuna outside of the reef. It took us about an hour and a half to get outside of the reef where we started trolling while looking for schooling tuna. While trolling we caught several jacks, king mackerel and baracuda. Eventually, Kevin spotted a huge school of feeding black fin tuna in the distance and we were on our way. The school was huge, maybe 5-6 acres, and the fish were running about 4-6 lbs. They were feeding on small sardines and the water all around us was a total feeding frenzy. Drifting through this school casting, we caught several tuna. Believe me, it takes a while to bring in a 5 lb tuna on light spinning tackle. As we were drifting along, Norma looked down and right beside the boat was a pair of whale sharks. The female was very curious and came right up to us and put her head out of water within 6" of the side of the boat. She was about the same length as the boat and maybe 36" accross. The male was huge but he stayed down under the female so we did not have an opportunity to get up close and personal. The whale sharks stayed with us for maybe 10 minutes and then swam back into the frenzy to feed. What a thrill. Having fished long enough Kevin took us inside the reef to Big Silk Caye where he fixed us a lobster shore lunch grilled over the coal of a coconut husk fire. To die for... The other days we just sort of lazed around, visited some friends we had met on our previous trip. Others took advantage of the free kayaks, canoes and sailboats at Robert's Grove. Norma decided that she wanted to play tennis on the new court. As there were not any other guests interested, Darleen who works in the office made arrangements for Norma to play at 5:00 am (good move -- it gets hot later) with Darleen, her husband Dewey and another employee of the hotel Louise. they had a lot of fun. Many thanks to Shelly Pollard the manager and Frank and Darleen and Louise and every single employee of the Inn who made it their mission to make us happy during our stayRick and Norma Paine, Enterprise, Florida, June 1999

* My wife and I just returned from our ten day honeymoon which included a seven day stay from May 20 - 27, 1999 at the INN AT ROBERT'S GROVE. We are thrilled with what proved to be a week that was spent in pure luxury. The grounds at Robert's Grove are magnificent. Handsome Spanish-style villas that overlook the Caribbean surround a very large freshwater swimming pool that also overlooks the ocean. The beach is wide with beautiful white sand. The Inn also has a large pier with a thatch cover at the end of the dock. There are several chaise longes on the dock. This proved to be my favorite place to read and enjoy the ocean. Our accommodations were equally impressive. We stayed in a palatial junior suite. The corner room was huge with windows looking east onto the beautiful ocean and a set of windows looking south with a view of the ocean and beach. The room also included an expansive private deck that had a terrace for shade, a hammock, two very comfortable chaise lounges, and a wicker table with two wicker chairs. Inside, the room had soaring, beamed cathedral ceilings, clay tile floors, full length leveled windows that allowed for the wonderful sea breeze to fill the room, an enormous open air shower that was big enough for about five people, beautiful tropical themed paintings and a huge bed covered by fine linens and a lovely Guatemalan quilt. The room looked like something out of Architectural Digest. It was a perfect and most romantic setting for our honeymoon. The Inn's proprietor, Robert Frackman was a gracious and charming host. He joined us for drinks in the lovely bar where Franz, his equally charming bartender mixed pina coladas and margueritas that were outstanding. That night we dined on broiled snook and shrimp linguine that were expertly prepared by the resort's chef, Frank. During our one week stay we dined on pan fried snapper, crab legs, barbecued ribs and chicken, pasta, and shrimp. All meals were superb including the complimentary daily breakfast served buffet style with eggs, bacon, sausage, French toast, fresh mango, papaya, watermelon and fresh orange juice. We were truly well fed and spoiled! The resort's manager, Shelley, coordinated several excellent trips for us. These included a great fishing trip to the Cayes with a local guide named Ivan. We caught about twenty fish including snapper, jacks, bonito, needlefish and two fearsome barracuda. We hooked and lost twice as many fish! This was a great day as the fishing was super and the Cayes are very picturesque. The next day we were taken snorkeling on Robert's 30 foot long skiff. Robert's guide, HermanM was very good. We went to Laughingbird Caye where, snorkeling in the crystal clear water that was only six feet deep, we saw hundreds of fish of the most dazzling colors. We snorkeled for two hours and were never bored. We also went to several other lovely cayes including Robert's own private caye where we saw dozens of nesting laughing gulls, an osprey nest, enormous conch shell clad hermit crabs, and soaring frigate birds. Another super day! On our last day, Herman took us to the Monkey River to see the Howler Monkeys. It took approximately 20 minutes to reach the town of Monkey River where we picked up a local guide named Alphonso. We then slowly boated down the river, spotting roosting bats, dinner plate sized blue land crabs, hawks, vultures, egrets, ahingas, and numerous other beautiful birds. We then began an hour and a half hike into the jungle where Alphonso pointed out termite nests, Aztec ants, marching ants, plants with medicinal uses, hummingbirds, several jaguar paw prints, a blue morph butterfly. We heard a crashing in the trees overhead and were surrounded by a large troop of eleven Black Howler Monkeys. These monkeys were huge, looking to be about twenty-five to forty pounds. After some calling from our guide the monkeys responded with a "OOOO OOOO OOOOO" that ended with a screeching "YEOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!" Howler Monkeys is certainly an appropriate name! After our jungle trek we headed back to town where we had a hearty meal of rice and beans at one of the hotels in Monkey River. Before we headed home, Herman took us to a nearby caye where we spotted a manatee and its calf. The Inn at Robert's Grove is a short walk away from the lagoon which is across the highway. A channel has been dredged which allows easy access to the lagoon. My wife and I spent a lazy day canoeing in the placid and picturesque lagoon where we fished (catching a small permit and small snapper), bird watched and sun bathed in the very serene setting. We are absolutely elated with our stay at Robert's Grove. Robert Frackman and his very capable staff did all they could to make our stay perfect. Our thanks go out to Robert Frackman, Franz, Shelley and Frank for making our honeymoon perfect and memorable. We will be back for our anniversary. Paul and Angela ShibleyBirmingham, Michigan, MAY 1999

A few notes on our trip to Belize in March. Flew from New York on American Airlines and naively, or optimistically, booked a flight on Maya to Placencia that left Belize International about an hour and a quarter after we arrived. On a good day this may be enough time to clear immigration and get yourself over to the Maya Island counter but it didn't work for us. I would suggest leaving a little more time to make the connection. We were standby for three flights before we finally got the last two seats on the last flight of the day to Placencia. The cold Belikins in the airport bar helped keep things in perspective but you probably don't want to start your trip this way if you can help it! We stayed at TURTLE INN for one night (US$120 per night including taxes), SONNY'S RESORT for four (about US$60 per night) and INN AT ROBERT'S GROVE for three (US$125 per night in the annex which is not always available - US$150 in other rooms and US$175 in room #4 which we will book next time -- very special). Of course it depends on your budget and what you are looking for but here are my thoughts. The ambiance at Turtle Inn is lovely; it really looks like paradise when you arrive; thatched huts and so on, but as beautiful as the beach is, it just does not make up for sub-standard bathrooms (even by modest, reasonable standards) where you can't even flush toilet paper. We were also not impressed at the one insufficient light fixture and the really uncomfortable beds. We still had hope though until breakfast when we were served (without being offered any choice) some scrambled eggs and, of all things, Tang for orange juice. No fruit was available. We are really not fussy people but the beautiful setting just screamed fresh OJ at least! For not much more money you can stay at Robert's Grove and have a wonderful, relaxing experience with good food in a pretty setting, and thoughtful owners and staff. When we were staying at Sonny's Resort, we took a whole day to explore ALL the resorts to the north as far as Seine Bight. This involved a lot of walking and a Belikin in every establishment ­ it was a very hot day. We checked them all out. HOTEL SEINE BIGHT, while it looked interesting enough, just didn't appeal to us personally. Th NAUTICAL INN was immaculate and the owners very friendly but again we just didn't feel like we fit. I may be wrong but I think that if we were a little older (we are 34 and 45) and were in to fishing or diving we may have felt more at home. LUBA HATI is impressive to look at but felt like a mausoleum (sorry!). Such a terrific effort has obviously been made to create something that hasn't existed in this area before that it really just doesn't work. The rooms were pretty, although small, and the air conditioning felt great as we were sweltering form our walk. We had lunch at the bar and would have been very lonely but the chef and the front office manager were eating at the same time. The food was very good by local standards but VERY expensive. We had one appetizer and one order of three big prawns, a beer and a rum punch (which was US$6 and was no different than the same thing for half the price or less elsewhere) and the bill was US$50. Of course you are paying for the setting and that is fine, but we felt it was a bit much. A postcard here cost 4 times what we paid everywhere else. The dining room is huge and filled with beautiful furniture but there is just nothing intimate or cozy about a big room with too few people in it. So, again we passed on this resort and kept walking! Thankfully the Inn at Robert's Grove was next ­ and close by. We were greeted by the owner, served the coldest beer in a frozen glass, given a tour and were delighted to hear that one room was available for our last three nights in Belize. The room was in the annex adjacent to the resort proper and is used when the Inn itself is full. The room has great big windows overlooking the beach, a cooling fan, very comfy bed and sparkling clean tiled bathroom. We expressed an interest and told Shelly who runs the office that we would call here when we got back to Sonny's Resort. We checked out Rum Point on the way back to Placencia and even though the architecture was novel and the lovely porch style restaurant overlooked the beach, we very much wanted to stay in a room ON the beach and not set back in the trees where you couldn't see the water. By the time we got back to Sonny's, Shelly at Robert's Grove had already called to let us know that someone else wanted the room. She was kind enough to check with us first ­ thank you Shelly - and we booked it for our last three nights. Sonny's Resort in the village of Placencia was fine. You get what you pay for and the cabanas were clean (a few resident, and to be expected, bugs and insects notwithstanding) and we liked staying here well enough that we didn't run away before our four days were up. Th beds were not comfortable but we could hear the sea and we wanted to spend a few days in Placencia village to see what it was all about. We ate at the PICKLED PARROT twice because the snapper was so delicious. We enjoyed breakfast every morning at COZY CORNERS mostly because of the great setting right on the beach. This is what you dream of when you are in the cold, wet, north thinking about your tropical holiday. We enjoyed Placencia because of all the things it isn't ­ noisy, commercialized, crowded etc. I think the beach there is very pretty because you have a sweeping view of the whole curved beach of Placencia - the water was lovely and clean and we didn't see any seaweed. I was amazed at how difficult it was to get fresh fruit at all. We went t the market but were told that you really have to be there early to get whatever comes that day. After day two of finding only green oranges and a few sad bananas, I made special arrangements for the delivery of three papayas (my husband thinks I'm nuts but these are the little things that make a holiday more exotic than staying home!) and was very happy to have them. We enjoyed sitting on our little porch overlooking the beach but you need to be in the first or second cabanas from the water to enjoy the view. Our last three nights in Belize at the Inn at Robert's Grove were far and away the best. The wind came up and we couldn't go snorkeling around Robert's Caye ­ a private island owned by the Inn so we were very happy to have the pool to sit by and swim in. Somehow we ran out of sunscreen and so we hit the road walking again ­ we did have a lift for a mile or so from the chef at Luba Hati, but walked all the way to Kitty's before we found a tiny bottle of tanning stuff! Someone could have themselves a nice little business supplying the silly things that tourists forget. The shuttle bus does go by every now and again ­ but not reliably and not too close to hourly! Anyway, back to the Inn. The rooms and common areas are very nicely decorated with Central American or Mexican tile and furniture and artwork and all are extremely comfortable. We had no interest in TV but there was one discreetly tucked away in a lounge adjacent to the bar where there was also a good little collection of reading material. The beach is not a wide sweeping expanse of sand but it is clean and pretty and has lovely palm trees swaying. At the end of the jetty is a thatch covered deck with hammocks where we spent time sipping our drinks and reading. We enjoyed the pool and the fact that the bar and restaurant were only steps away. There was no shortage of fresh fruit here ­ the supply lines work very well to the Inn! We not only had plenty of freshly squeezed orange, grapefruit and lime juice but the food was all quite good. Breakfasts were buffet style eggs, bacon, pancakes lots and lots of fruit, bread etc. Lunch was a la carte and there were burgers or burritos or salad ­ always a soup available too. Dinners we really enjoyed because the beach is lit at night and you can eat outside on a little deck and watch the sea lap at the shore, a really thoughtful touch. One night during our stay was BBQ night and the chef did a great job of grilling freshly caught shark as well as steak, sausages etc. There was an outstanding shrimp, avocado and artichoke salad that we haven't stopped thinking about as well! When you consider that Placencia is still pretty much "off the beaten path" and if your expectations are reasonable, you will be very pleasantly surprised by what the Bob and Risa Frackman have made happen at their resort ­ this is not the US Virgin Islands (thank heavens!) after all, and I really can't say enough about how much we enjoyed The Inn at Robert's Grove. We will be going back to stay in Room #4 ­ and for more than three days! Paige (bstoecker@hamptons.com), March 1999

* INN AT ROBERT'S GROVE, Seine Bight, Placencia. Contact: tel. 501-6-23565, fax 6-23567, in U.S. toll-free 1-800-565-9757; e-mail info@robertsgrove.com; rates US$150-175 double in-season, US$100-$125 off-season, including breakfast, plus hotel tax. The Inn at Robert's Grove brings a new level of luxury and amenities to the peninsula. First off, all the units are fully air conditioned. There's a beautiful seaside pool, and the Inn has the only tennis courts in Southern Belize. Open only a short time, the Inn already has expanded, adding a new group of rooms and a larger restaurant. Owners Robert and Risa Frackman, a couple from New York, are going all out to make this one of the most upscale small beach resorts on the Caribbean Coast. It may not be very "Belize" -- whatever that is -- but this kind of deluxe spot helps fill the gap at the upper end of the hotel spectrum. Ond of the Canadians who got raves for tfood at Green Parrot in Maya Beach r moved to the Inn at Robert's Grove. Lan Sluder, BELIZE FIRST

* E-mail from the new owners of Hotel Seine Bight (now BAHIA LAGUNA):

Lan Sluder, I am surprised that you would not recommend our hotel based on rumor and hearsay. I had always valued your opinion on a wide variety of subjects when it comes to Belize. It would have taken very little effort on your part to get the facts on the situation at the Bahia Laguna but I see you have chosen to embrace rumor. The BTB and any other number of organizations would have informed you that everything is and has been done in the proper way. The former owners, Mike Fitzgerald and Pam Hazeltine,with which you seem to sympathize, have fled the country ... The list of people they .... owe money to is unbelievable. I was always taught "if you can't say anything nice, say nothing at all." Especially when what you have to say is based on "he said, she said or I heard." Come to the Bahia Laguna. There is nothing to hide. Learn what you are talking about before you lose credibility as an "expert" on Belize and what is happening at it's resorts. Sincerely, Jeff and Janet Baumgardner, July 1999

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Dear Mr. Sluder, I am one of the new owners of Bahia Laguna and it disturbs be to see your response. Do you really know what occurred at the former Hotel Seine Bight? Do you know the inside story or are you just responding to what you have seen and heard on chats on the web. I have never met you nor I have I ever heard from you and it seems to me that such a respectable person / magazine as yourself and Belize First would attempt to find out both sides of a story before posting anything about any property. If you are interested at all hearing about what did happen at the former Hotel Seine Bight, I would be happy to share with you knowledge that I have. This information is documented information. It is very difficult to begin a new business in Belize. To come to a country that I learned more and more about through some information that I gathered from your own Belize First site. It is now alarming to find out that the information you do put on your site may not be correct. How do you collect your information for your site and your posts? You have always seemed to be so authoritative. I sincerely hope that I do hear from you again and that I may share with you information that I feel you must not have. Keep up the great work you have begun with your magazine. I really want to believe that your intentions were not meant to harm us but were meant to be helpful and I want to believe that your research for your site and magazine is much more thorough than my personal experience. I will continue to recommend your site to travelers and future clients to Bahia Laguna. So far we have had many satisfied visitors and I do my very best to serve my guests individually. Thank you for your time. Janet Baumgardner, July 1999

* We rented a Suzuki Samurai from BUDGET for US$68/day and were very pleased with the car and the service by Budget. We had the car delivered down to Placencia/Seine Bight for an additional US$112, which ended up working out great for us. We did not have any trouble with the roads; south of the Hummingbird Highway, the roads are graded dirt with a bit of washboard, but as it was the dry season (March), four wheel drive was not needed at all. The northermost 17 miles of the Hummingbird Highway are still being actively worked upon (i.e. being paved) so you have segments of pavement then dirt, but otherwise the highway is nicely paved. After flying down to Placencia on Tropic Air , we stayed for four nights in a two floor suite at HOTEL SEINE BIGHT (US$100/night) and greatly enjoyed it. Its seven rooms are right on the beach (maybe 20 feet off the water) and are interestingly-designed (quaint but neat); Pam the owner was very helpful and friendly and easily arranged any tours we wished (snorkeling and Monkey River); there is a nice freshwater pool; and the food was good (though FRANCO'S at Luba Hati was our favorite). The only minor drawbacks are that the showers are a fixed temperature (but were comfortably warm), you have limited electricity, and you do not have hot water in the rooms. We had a good dinner at Hotel Seine Bight on our first night. On two nights we dined at Franco's at Luba Hati and had superb meals plus they have a handy complimentary shuttle. On the other night, we had a great huge meal at the KULCHA SHACK and got to experience gibnut whilst enjoying the hospitality of Dewey and Darlene. We stayed at the Hotel Seine Bight on the nights of the March 15-18, 1999, so it was before the change of management. Pam did seem a bit preoccupied, but I thought that that was just how she was. The one dinner we had at Hotel Seine Bight was good; I think that Pam cooked it, and we were the only ones at dinner at that time. I hope that the new owners will provide as good service as Pam seemed to, since the hotel does have great ambiance that we really enjoyed. Kris Andersen, Rocklin, California, March 1999

* We stayed at HOTEL SEINE BIGHT. They have added a couple of new, extremely nice rooms/suites, which are quite large. The rooms are decorated very well, making use of old cassava graters, traditional wooden bowls, etc. (They left my wife wishing there were an antique store in the area to find more of these.) Most of the suites are two-story affairs that are a little unlike anything you've ever seen before. The place is ingeniously laid out, and you find yourself sitting in the lodge looking around in mild amazement. It's almost an Alice in Wonderland type of feeling. Owners Mike and Pam have a good Web site (www.belize.com/seinebight.html) that provides some information. The rooms are all directly on the water which offers some of the better swimming areas we encountered. They have also built a fresh-water pool which was nice. The food was excellent and the portions ample. They are building something of a reputation for their use of silver and linens, and the small restaurant provided a nice atmosphere for some quiet dinners. Lest I be accused of uncritically hyping the place I will point out that they are about three miles north of the airstrip, and Placencia proper is about 3 miles south of the airstrip, thus they are not in the heart of the city, er, village. In between there are a number of other hotels (Serenity, Rum Point, Kitty's, Turtle, etc.). We walked all the way down to Placencia, stopping for beers along the way, and had a nice time of it. We did resort to hitching a ride home, though. Todd and Laura Oxner, Summerfield, North Carolina, November 1997

* We just returned from our vacation on the Placencia peninsula at the HOTEL SEINE BIGHT ( tel. 501-6-22491). What a fabulous place! Located in the town of Seine Bight, north of Placencia town, it is far enough removed to offer the privacy of few tourists, but 10 minutes away from restaurants, dive boat access, bars, etc. The hotel consists of a restaurant and only has four rooms overlooking a pristine, secluded beach. The restaurant has a large selection of delicious entrees prepared by owner, Pam, and features specials made from local game such as gibnut stew prepared by Florita. Pam's husband, Mike, an architect, designed and built the hotel himself. As an architect myself (Charles), I appreciated Mike's sensitivity to local building styles adapted to his own, unique vision. Each room is angled to provide privacy. Our room was an octagonally shaped two-story suite, with living room and bathroom on first floor and sleeping loft with balcony above. Mike and Pam go out of their way to arrange any excursion that you might want to go on. Anyone visiting should call the KULCHA SHAK in Seine Bight and arrange with owners Dewey and Darlene to come for one of the best, authentic meals you will get on the peninsula. They also are musicians and have a great evening of drumming and singing after dinner. All musicians must visit them! Charles and Jessica Kibel, New York, New York, February 1997

* We visited the HOTEL SEINE BIGHT for dinner, and it was wonderful. The hotel is unique inside, with their water cistern being the main feature. Tables nicely set with linens and candles made for a relaxing atmosphere, perfect for honeymooners! The menu is varied, with about 20 items offered, and the prices were on average US$12.50 - $15.00. The food was fabulous, and we ate many different things, including shark and armadillo! I know now that they have rooms as well, and I think I would consider staying there on my next visit. Elizabeth Everitt, Princeton, BC, Canada, January 1997

* We felt the best beaches were best in Placencia. It wasn't hard to find rooms in Placencia Village for US$15 to $35 a night -- simple, but clean and adequate. One disappointment was BLUE CRAB RESORT on the north end of the peninsula There was a choice of a room, at US$35, or US$75 for a cabana, or an air conditioned room at US$85. We booked a room over the phone from Belize City, only to be put into an air conditioned room at the expensive price. On questioning this, I was told this was all they had left, so being late in the day, we stayed. It didn't take long to see that the place was nearly empty, and that one of the rooms at US$35 had been available all along. Another couple who had been there for a couple of days confirmed this, too. Breakfast was US$7.50 each, and consisted of small half banana (in the tropics, no less), a piece of brown toast, a small piece of pineapple and instant coffee! The other couple was soon eating elsewhere, and needless to say, we moved on the next morning. We were not pleased and didn't appreciate being deceived. On a better note, we found a wonderful property close by called SEINE BIGHT HOTEL -- unique and comfortable, at US$85 per night. Meals were excellent, the view beautiful and peaceful and quiet. Transportation wasn't too easy on the peninsula. Buses didn't go conveniently, and unless you rented a bicycle, the walk to Placencia Village was a hefty one. The beach bars in the village were fun places to meet people and test the local beer. Ken and Carol Turner, Magnetawan, Ontario, Canada, January 1998

* Just back from 10 days in Belize. We spent 4 days in placencia at the SEA SPRAY HOTEL. We rented their only cabaña -- it is literally right on the beach only 10 feet from the water. The room is nothing fancy but it is very clean and comfortable. The owners Norman & Jodie Leslie are wonderful people that would anything for you.They have just opened a new restaurant right next to the hotel that has great food and service The decor is a little rustic, but I understand that will changing very soon. If you're looking for budget lodging the Sea Spray Hotel is hard to beatwith prices from US$15 to $52. Scott Senecal, Baldwinsville, New York, May 1999

* Letter from PLACENCIA LAGOON RESORT: We are Roland and Diana Exum of Placencia Lagoon Resort and we have heard lots of nice things about your publication. We are off the beaten track on Malacate Beach 2 miles from Independence village overlooking the placencia lagoon just across from the Placencia airstrip about 7 minutes by skiff. At this time we are the only resort in this area. Placencia Lagoon Resort has 8 beachfront thatChed roof carpeted cabañas with ceiling fans, modern private baths with hot and cold showers, satellite TV, full service bar with karaoke, and maid and room service. This resort encompasses 20 acres, a natural park, a wildlife forest and parcel for sale. Here you will find plush lawns, beautiful coconuut shade trees, indigenous large emory trees, many varieties of tropical birds, plants and small wildlife and marina under construction. We have an abundance of tropical fresh fruit as well as garden fresh vegetables. We bake our own breads and our decorative and tasty meals are prepared daily by our Los Angeles chef who specializes in international cuisine and can cater to your special needs. She is a connoisseur in her own right. A fresh assortment of seafood is for her choosing and she prepares three delicious meals daily. Imported coffees and teas are always ready, and our full service bar is always open. Diana Exum, co-owner, Placencia Lagoon Resort, May 1999

* I was a bit apprehensive about my second trip to Placencia. I was afraid of what Hurricane Mitch had done to the town and reef. But the town escaped with little damage. I had heard from one of the hotel operators ( Janice, owner of TRADEWINDS) about digging their accommodations out of the sand. But all had been restored by the time I had arrived. The roads were still suffering, muddy and rocky. I stayed at DEB AND DAVE'S LAST RESORT. US$20 a night double. Clean, basic accommodations. Also Dave's garden in back has become more beautiful, with earlier plantings of flowers and bushes reaching there full growth. Lovely setting for relaxing on the porch in back of the cabins. There are four attached cabins and one shared bath, two toilets and a shower, very clean. It rained for periods of time every day, but would clear up during the day. The full first day after I arrived I went to Laughing Bird Caye with SEAHORSE DIVE SHOP located at the end of the pier. I highly recommend them. Brian Young, the owner is a highly regarded divemaster and has international acknowledgements; he is also a very nice guy. I also have to mention Ardie, Brian's wife -- incredible lunches. There had been some damage to the reef, and the island had been separated into two islands. The reef had noticeable damage, but was still beautiful nonetheless. There were signs of new schools of fish returning. The second snorkel of the day, I saw more fish than in the morning. Blue Tangs, Sergeant Majors, Barracuda, a variety of Angelfish, Snappers, Groupers, Parrotfish, Lobsters and 2 beautiful Spotted Rays. I took 4 other trips to the Silk Cayes, Pompeii Caye, and Ranguana Caye and to Laughing Bird again, Brian also took us to different Cayes on the same day as Laughing Bird so we could see a variety of Coral and Fish. I do not remember the names of the others snorkel trips including lunch and gear are US$35 and dives are US$60. The second day I took a trip to Cockscomb Jaguar Reserve with Dave of Deb and Daves. Dave is an incredibly knowledgeable guide. We left at 7:30 in the morning in his brand-new van on a bone-breaking road to Cockscomb; the journey took, I believe, more than 2 hours. We arrived at the reserve and were taken on a trek through the rainforest. Dave patiently answered all our questions about the flora and fauna. A downpour began during our walk. I would advise taking rain ponchos. Also walking shoes that you can get soaked. Parts of the trail were literally pools of water. I am going to opt for the hiking sandals next time. Silly me wore American hiking boots. They do not dry out for a number of days, and are not fun to put back on wet. Also Backwoods Off is a must. I believe it is the most powerful on the market. Take a few cans with you, because they can sell out quickly in the village. After lunch we took intertubes down the river, absolutely breathtaking. We saw countless birds, several species of woodpeckers, Jabiru Storks, keel-billed Toucans and countless others. Also butterflies of various species. Gorgeous! The Cockscomb trip cost was US$40 including transportation, lunch and equipment. I also went on the Mayan Ruin Trip with Dave. We went in the morning across the lagoon by boat, saves about 3 hours traveling time. And met Dave across the lagoon. He then drove us to Nim Li Punit, a small sight compared to most in the country, but well worth the visit. A 30-foot carved Stelae, ancient ball fields and tombs, which Dave explained in great detail. For lunch we went to Blue Creek Cave and swam in side the cave and viewed ancient markings on the wall. This particular cave was used for ancient Mayan rituals. We then headed for Lubaantun another small but worthy site, especially for knowledge of the daily workings and hierarchy of Mayan Civilization. A note on the visits to the Mayan sights, You are greeted by Mayan women and children selling crafts and trinkets. There are lovely crafts and jewelry. The Mayans basically have no income. They live on lands protected by the government I believe. So if you can spare a few dollars, it would help them out. The ones I chatted with were very fun loving and gracious. We took this last trip on Christmas Day. The children started giggling and were pointing at my traveling companion, they looked up and said with beautiful smiles, "He looks like Santa Claus." He does. Dave also does a number of other tours, Monkey River, mangroves as well as others. You can reach him at TOADAL ADVENTURES which is the same as the Hotel Deb and Daves. e-mail debanddave@btl.net. And you can reach Brian at e-mail seahorse@btl.net I can't wait till I can return again. Liz Duncan, Chattanooga, Tennessee, December,1998

* DEB & DAVE'S LAST RESORT, Placencia Village, Stann Creek District, Belize, C.A.; tel. 501-6-23207. Rates: US$13.50 single, 18.50 double; off-season $2.50 less As the brochure says, "for the budget traveler who wants a little more." This is a budget spot, but a very nice one, with clean, pleasant rooms, just behind Deborah and David Vernon's house. Shared baths, fans in rooms. In the heart of Placencia Village, not on the water but a hundred feet or so from it. David Vernon is a well-known local guide who does work for International Expeditions. Would I say here? If on a budget, this would be my choice in Placencia. Lan Sluder, BELIZE FIRST

* We spent six nights at the BLUE CRAB. We stayed in one of two (soon to be three) air-conditioned rooms. The room was a little small but well-furnished and kept very clean. The A/C unit put out good cold air and was quiet. The grounds were well-kept, and there were lots of exotic birds and critters to watch, Kerry and Linn Goss, the owners, were most pleasant. They do not try to run your vacation but are there should you have a question or need something. The beach is raked and so is the rest of the beached land. There are hammocks to relax in around the property. Linn is an excellent cook (the "Snapper Caribbean" was fantastic). Overall, I give the place a 4+ (out of 5) and would definitely stay there again. Rick Paine, Enterprise, Florida, October 1998

I visited Placencia for the first time with my family in late April and early May 1998. Our daughter was about to graduate from high school, and we had promised her a trip as a gift. She wanted Cancun, but I was able to convince her that Belize had better ruins, jungles and at least less-crowded beaches. Plus, I'd been looking forward to snorkeling in Belize for years. All of our initial research about Belize was done on the Internet. We limited our lodging selection to places that answered our e-mail queries, about half a dozen places. We ended up choosing TURTLE INN because their beach house was available, and we liked the idea of a kitchen. Our children are 11, 16 and 18. They had never been south of Florida. My wife and I have made several trips to the Caribbean; we love the BVI in particular. Here are some reflections on our trip: -- I recommend TURTLE INN. The location is excellent -- right on the sea, a mile or so from town. Skip White was knowledgeable and a fine host. We preferred the beach house and the one-floor cabanas closest to the water. Skip tells me he's considering rebuilding the two-story cabanas (bathroom below) because people prefer the other style, and the arrival of "city water" obviates the need for low-elevation plumbing used in the older design. Also helpful and friendly were Fidel, Skip's right hand man, and Egbert, the inn's boat driver. -- Prices were "as advertised," or better. The Turtle Inn was very fair with meal prices, giving us the AP (meals included) rate on days we chose to eat at the restaurant, and no-meals rate on other days. Our two vegetarian daughters were well served. The inn also included all local amenities (e.g., kayaks, local transportation) in the price. The food was good, in some cases excellent. The kitchen at Turtle Inn was good enough that we felt little motivation to explore. -- The weather was mixed while we were there. Rain was threatening for a few days, and finally arrived one morning. While waiting for the rain, mornings were very still, hot, and humid, even right at the sea, with the wind and seas picking up as the day wore on. Other days were sunny, warm, and breezy. -- The Monkey River tour is well worth the time. We swam with crocodiles! Our guide, Percy, was excellent, as were all the guides we used in Belize. The hour walk in the jungle was easy, although Percy certainly made it seem more adventurous with his busy machete and skillful storytelling. We saw many howler monkeys, insects, bats, and birds, as well as signs of big cats and snakes. -- We loved the Maya ruin tour by Serenity Lodge (which Turtle Inn was happy to recommend and arrange). We were the only visitors at Lubaantun and Nim Li Punit in over a week, so we had the full attention of the local guides. The kids liked the stop in Golden Stream to eat lunch with a Maya family and swim in the stream to cool off. The young children found us amusing as well; I think it was partly due to the caution we exercised toward our tender normally-shod feet. -- Our most fondly remembered outings were to the cayes for snorkeling. We took a couple trips with Dave Dial, including a day/night dive, and a "blown away" sailing trip with a lunch on Abigail Caye. This was the kids first snorkeling adventure, and a great one. There was plenty of coral and fish, including nurse sharks, rays, lobster and many colorful reef fish. BTW, I knew I was in Central America when Dave returned us to the Turtle Inn in an old school bus that wouldn't shift out of first gear -- a memorable ride! -- Two of the five of us were bothered by no-see-ums. My wife's reaction to the bites was uncomfortable enough that, unfortunately, I suspect it will be a long time before I can talk her into a return visit. The locals tell us that the bugs are worse at some times (particularly when rain is imminent), and that some people are far more sensitive than others. We seen to have had the odds against us. -- Don't overlook the restaurants in Placencia village. We enjoyed a lunch at SHANA'S COCONUT CAFE enormously. Our lunch came with a fresh aloe rub for our tourist skin and hair and a bag of fruit from the yard to bring back to our room. Despite the fact that I'll always hear about the no-see-ums whenever I bring it up, I'm glad we went to Belize. The combination of history, wildlife, and recreation is unbeatable. Doug Currie, Londonerry, New Hampshire, April/May 1998

* We ended our 10-day vacation at SERENITY RESORT on Placencia. It was definitely the highlight of our trip. The resort was set on some of the most beautiful beach-front property that we have seen in Belize. There service was excellent and owner, Tom Giblin, was the most gracious and friendly host we dealt with on our trip. He offers many tours from the resort including jungle trips, Maya Ruin trips, and snorkeling trips. We only had time to take one trip out to Laughing Bird Caye ( snorkeling). We were provided with an excellent guide, who was very knowledgeable about all aspects of Belize. The food was some of the best we have tasted in Belize. Serenity offers beautiful cabañas on the ocean or air-conditioned rooms in the newer section,with a spectacular view. If you want a peaceful, serene getaway with opportunity for adventure, we highly recommend Serenity. Pat and Danielle Casey, Bridgeport, Connecticut, August 1998

* We had the wonderful experience of fishing and sightseeing with KEVIN MODERA, a guide in Placencia. We had seen his Web Site and had arranged two trips the way we wanted them First, we left the dock at 6 a.m. for Monkey River. On arrival we had breakfast and met our rainforest guide Percy. After breakfast we all got into Kevin's boat and slowly made our way up the Monkey River. The week before our arrival they had experienced many inches of rain and the river was running very fast and was about 3 feet high. Percy pointed out various birds and several iguanas sunning themselves on the foliage. After about 1/2 hour moving up stream we pulled onto the river bank and got out of the boat. Percy asked us to follow him and to be as quiet as possible so that we might see the most wildlife. With that he started cutting us a path with a machete. Along the way he pointed out good and bad plants, some medicinal as well as a pair of toucans and several other jungle birds. After about 1/2 hour of hiking through deep jungle and very muddy terrain we came to a stand of extremely large bamboo. Percy began yelling and beating the bamboo with his machete and from above us came the howls of several howler monkeys. Some were low down in the trees and bamboo and close enough for us to get excellent looks and pictures. After getting back to the boat we went back to the village of Monkey River and had lunch. After lunch we fished our way back towards Placencia and caught several barracuda and six nice snook. The second trip with Kevin, we left the dock at 7 a.m. and headed East for about an hour to fish for bonefish. Kevin really knew his business as he put us on to 24 bonefish landed and many that got off. About noon, we headed toward Laughing Bird Caye National Park where we could snorkel and Kevin could fix us a shore lunch. He had brought some shrimp with him and potatoes and onions and melon along with various seasonings. On the way to Laughing Bird, he stopped the boat, jumped overboard and came back up with three beautiful lobsters he had taken from under a rock. We all gathered broken coconut husks and what ever driftwood we could find and Kevin made a pit fire. While we snorkeled he prepared shrimp and lobster, au gratin potatoes and melon. After lunch we started heading back to Placencia and had the thrill of a school of dolphin swimming along with us and rolling so close to the boat that they could be touched. We thoroughly enjoyed our two days with Kevin Modera and look forward to going back next year for more experiences with him. Rick Paine, Enterprise, Florida, October 1998

* LUBA HATI, Seine Bight, Placencia. Contact: P.O. Box 1997, Belize City, tel. 501-6-23402, fax 6-23403, e-mail lubahati@btl.net. Next door to the Inn at Robert's Grove just south of Seine Bight is another upmarket new place, Luba Hati ("House of the Moon" in Garifuna.) I took the cook's tour one morning. The eight rooms in a Mediterranean-style building are big, comfortable and pleasantly decorated, with a lot of tile, batik, and African and Garifuna art. Rooms have semi-private terraces. The grounds are attractive, and there's a great view from of the sea and the surrounding area from the perch at the top of the hotel roof. Franco's, the restaurant, is without doubt the most beautiful dining spot on the peninsula. To be competitive with the Inn at Robert's Grove and the new units at Rum Point Inn, I imagine Luba Hati eventually ill have to add a pool but you otherwise won't beat it for upscale ambiance and good taste. Lan Sluder, BELIZE FIRST, July 1998

* My wife and I just returned from a week in Placencia. We ended up staying at a hotel that was not listed in any books as it was fairly new -- the COZY CORNER HOTEL. They have a small beach bar and restaurant. The owners of the hotel were very friendly, helpful. We are not as young as we once were, and they took care of us as if we were family. We don't dive but they arranged a trip to Monkey River with a local guide and the trip was fantastic. The place is small with five rooms, but it is exceptionally clean and right on the beach. After talking to a few other tourists in the area at the time, we felt lucky to have found this place. Jerry and Mary Kennedy, Clear Lake Shores, Texas, June 1998

* We arrived in Placencia covered in dirt from the roads. It was a rough ride. When we got to RUM POINT we were pleasantly greeted by Laurie. She showed us around and took us to our room. We loved the rooms at Rum Point. They are so charming and roomy. We stayed in one of the "igloos" on the beach. At night when you turn the lights off, the moonlight shines through the patterns on the walls and they make designs on the ceiling. We also got a peek at the newer rooms with A/C. They were nice too, especially the bathrooms. We enjoyed the set up for dinner at night- everyone sits at long tables together so you get a chance to meet all sorts of people. The food, however, was probably the worst we had in Belize. Breakfast was fine, but dinner was not. Our second day at Rum Point, Lynn at the front desk arranged a special trip for the three of us to Monkey River. Usually you need 4, but she couldn't find anyone else. This was the highlight of our trip. Our driver Cagey Eiley and our guide Ralph Zuniga were amazing. We got to see bats, turtles, fish, howler monkeys, tarantulas, iguanas, crocodiles, and all kinds of birds. We went on a great hike through the jungle and then had lunch on a little sand beach. Afterwards, we took a tour of Monkey Village. It was a wonderful afternoon and we would do it again in a second. We had a short but nice stay in Placencia. We truly enjoyed Rum Point and the staff were really good to us. It's a very quiet and relaxing atmosphere. The only downpoint was the food, but you can always go elsewhere to eat. Meghan Alexis, Champaign, Illinois, March 1999

* The new units at RUM POINT INN (contact: tel. 501-6-23239, fax 6-23240, e-mail rupel@btl.net) are big and beautiful, with A/C, big tile baths and attractive furnishings. Although not directly on the beach as are the older "free-form" units, the new ones are just a short trot away from the water. Rum Point also has added an above-ground pool, keeping Rum Point in the top tier of mainland beach resorts in terms of luxury and amenities. Lan Sluder, BELIZE FIRST, July 1998

* RUM POINT INN -- the individual cabanas are unique and fun. Our only quibble is that they have a very regimented meal schedule and we would have preferred to eat by ourselves occasionally rather than our assigned seats. In Placencia there is now Miller's Pub and Pizza, for those of us who need pizza after two weeks. Also, even though everyone should remember to reconfirm there flights home, it is imperative with Continental to do so 72 hours in advance or they WILL cancel your reservation. We saw more wildlife in Belize than we did when we were in Costa Rica and Brazil. We had a great vacation. Deborah McHugh, Bergenfield, New Jersey, May 1998

* We recently honeymooned at the GREEN PARROT in Maya Beach, 6 miles north of Placencia, tel./fax 501-6-22488, e-mail greenparot@btl.net. Colleen Fleury and Ray Twanow are the owners who put the very best accommodations together. We had a wonderful time with absolutely no problems. The cabañas are well- spaced, split-level buildings with a small porch with chairs and a hammock, all facing the water. There are six cabanas in all and a full-service restaurant and bar. The food prepared by Tim and Frank who contract the restaurant was terrific. (Editor's note: Frank is now at Inn at Robert's Grove). Incredible seafood and pasta dishes, pizza like I remember from Chicago and the best desserts. We did not have one bad meal and this was a looked forward to event at dinner, either inside their screened dining room or outside on the patio dining area, very quite and romantic. Tim and Frank do a first class job of entertaining and making you feel at home along with everyone at the Green Parrot. The rate is US$85 a night off season May through October and US$110 for high season. We opted for their summer package which had a stay seven nights pay for five plan, and a dinner package with some other extras. Well worth it. They helped arrange some great tours, including Laughing Bird Caye snorkeling and the Monkey River, but the most incredible one was working with IAN ANDERSON'S CAVE ADVENTURES outside of Belmopan. What a truly incredible experience! We had inner tubes for some light river floating into the caves and then some great hikes with the system for about 1 1/4 mile. Only about 1,500 people a year have visited these particular caves, and it was a blast. The Green Parrot worked out a trip and we took a van the 2 hours to the site. For US$85 per person we spent a couple of hours in the caves and learned a great deal from the expert guides Ian has on his staff. We got lunch and a great perspective on how the ancient Maya used these caves. The caving was challenging, but people of all ability would be fine climbing and tubing inside the caves. Having a cold Belikin was the perfect end at Ian's camp. He has a monkey named Simon that was rescued from a cruel owner and it was a lot of fun playing with him after the trip. If you are just now looking into Belize, you should definitely take the plunge, as you will not be disappointed. Chris Yontez, Santa Monica, California, May 1998

* My family and I stayed at the GREEN PARROT for two and a half weeks. We have two children, ages 6 and 8, and it was the perfect location for them. The resort is owned and operated by two Canadians, Colleen and Ray. There are six beachfront cabanas that consist of a main floor and loft including a small kitchen area. All six cabanas have a wonderful ocean view from the front deck that is equipped with two chairs and a hammock. They are placed in a horseshoe shape, with the outside ones being only about 20 feet from the water. The whole area has been cleared of brush and is beautiful white sand with palms dotted about. The water itself is clear, blue and seaweed-free, and only goes about mid-thigh for about the first 50 feet out, perfect for young children. Colleen and Ray have brought in a chef from Canada, Myron, who is absolutely fabulous. We had wonderful meals every evening, though we had no choice as there was only one selection offered, and at times it was a bit pricey. My children loved Isabel's fryjacks that were served up every morning, the best in Belize they say. We always enjoyed our pre-dinner get togethers around the bar to watch Philip's bar tricks. Unfortunately both catamarans and the windsurfer were out of commission, which was disappointing, but we had free use of the snorkeling equipment and inner tubes. I would definitely stay there again, and recommend it to anyone looking for that tropical paradise get-away. Elizabeth Everitt, Princeton, BC, Canada, January 1997

* My family's stay at GREEN PARROT was enjoyable, except for a needless and embarrassing mix-up in the billing and follow-up, but there were a couple of things I hadn't realized until I actually stayed here (having only visited before). One is that laundry service isn't routinely available. Another is that the power being off from around 9 p.m. to 7 p.m means early morning coffee isn't available and water for showers, washing and flushing isn't available during this time either. Also, Maya Beach is a one-way US$20 cab ride to Placencia village (when the shuttle isn't running). Lan Sluder, BELIZE FIRST, July 1998

* Our first stop on the Placencia peninsula was the GREEN PARROT (www.greenparrot-belize.com) at Maya Beach. We spent Christmas here (this was our Christmas splurge) and the beach houses were wonderful for a family. The beach was much better than I was expecting and sitting on their dock or swimming became our main activities. The food at Green Parrot, although good, didn't quite meet my expectations. I think they have likely suffered since losing their chef recently. Some of the equipment, such as the sailboats, were not usable. My other complaint about this place is that I found the owner and staff courteous but not particularly helpful or friendly, unlike every other place I stayed in Belize. Colleen (the co-owner) was not around at the time; maybe she is the one that normally deals with the guests. (Note: most other reports I have read talk about how friendly and helpful they are; maybe we hit the place on a bad day.) The Green Parrot is about as far from Placencia Village as you can be on the Placencia peninsula, but at least now with the shuttle bus getting back and forth becomes a little easier. But with the bad road made even worse by Mitch, travelling the 13 miles to the village took about three quarters of an hour on the shuttle. Our last stop was the WESTWIND HOTEL right in Placencia village. The owner is George Westby whose ambition in life seems to be lying in his hammock and shooting the breeze with his guests. He is very friendly and helpful in arranging the day's activities. The hotel is ideally situated, right on the beach in the middle of the village. There are about nine rooms with the upper rooms being bright and airy. It is a little overpriced for the village (we were paying about US$50 per room for lower level, smaller rooms) and if I were going back I would try to rent a cabaña in the village. I thought Placencia was a great little village. It was fun to walk up and down the sidewalk and try out the different restaurants. The beach was well maintained and clean. After reading reports about crime, drugs and filthy beaches I was pleasantly surprised at what I found. The beaches were clean, I didn't feel threatened by crime, and there were minimal signs of drug usage. We did see one needle on the beach, and if we weren't a middle age couple with kids I am sure we would have been approached to buy drugs. But overall, the experience was very positive. We ate at a number of places (THE GALLEY, OMAR'S, DAISY'S and MR. BONES at COZY CORNERS) and enjoyed all our meals. We didn't particularly enjoy the wait for the meals. The record was two hours and twenty minutes at Mr. Bones for a pizza. Try doing that with two kids! The Galley managed to serve us fried chicken in a mere one hour and fifteen minutes. Chicki Mallan in the Belize Handbook did describe The Galley as having "prompt service". I guess it is all relative. One of the less desirable elements of the Placencia area are the sand flies or no-see-ums. We were prepared and armed with Amway's Hourguard, a DEET based product that is supposed to last up to 12 hours, and anti-itch cream, so we didn't suffer too much. Even my wife and daughter wern't complaining much about the bugs. However be forewarned, if the wind is down you may get bitten, but it is well worth the effort since the beach is beautiful and the water warm and silky. Overall, I would have to describe our trip to Belize as being an unqualified success. I would recommend this trip to other families who are looking for a light adventure style of travelling. Some parting thoughts: Although I recognize crime is a problem in Belize (as in many other places in North America and other parts of the world) at no time did I feel threatened or in danger. Many places we stayed did not have locks on the door and I believe that almost everyone we met was scrupulously honest. I was amazed at the interest the Belizeans took in ecology and the environment. For a developing nation, and for people many of whom are not particularly affluent, their interest in the natural history and their environment is admirable. All the local guides we had were not only knowledgeable, but took great pride and enjoyment in their work. In general, the people were among the friendliest and helpful of anywhere I have visited. Even the hustlers were not particularly aggressive nor obnoxious. Belize is certainly not everyone's vacation spot. It is very quiet and laid back, without the kind of infrastructure and facilities one can find in most major tourist destinations. Tourism is small scale and if you are looking for a resort with a swim-up bar, parties, fancy restaurants, good shopping, golf, etc. this is not for you. But if you want a beautiful place and a bit of an adventure it is a wonderful destination. Mark Vigder, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada, December 1998

* All my fears of going to Belize were unfounded. I had friends tell me I was crazy for going to an obscure Central American country that they had never heard of! They envisioned rebel-infested jungles and drug lords at every turn, not to mention snakes, crocodiles, scorpions and an array of insects. I am so glad I did not heed their unwarranted objections. What I found in Placencia was simply, Paradise. A warm and caring people and an unsurpassed tropical haven. I have travelled to several tropical destinations and I have never found such beauty. I have to give a hearty thanks incredible magazine BELIZE FIRST. I stayed at DEB AND DAVE'S LAST RESORT in Placencia Village. It was clean and comfortable, nice hardwood floors, fan and a shower down the hall all for US$20 a night. I recommend it highly. I also highly recommend SEAHORSE DIVE SHOP at the end of the pier in the village. Brian Young owns and runs a first-class operation. His crew is first rate, and his wife Artie prepares the most incredible lunches. (I think she should open a restaurant.) The first day they took us to Ranguana Caye. I was very excited, as I have been to Cozumel and I had heard that Belize waters surpassed that of the Mexican island. Led by Lewis, our snorkel guide, we jumped into the water. I saw Sergeants, Blue Tangs, Angel Fish, and various coral formations. Then we broke for lunch and had Artie's delicious barbecued chicken and fish that was grilled on the caye, corn, baked beans, potato salad, slaw, and a sweet watermelon. We then had a few hours to go back in the water or laze on the beach. They let us stay as long as we wanted. No one is in a hurry in Placencia. I felt the knots of tension in my back begin to fade away. The next day, They took us to Laughing Bird Caye, a must for all divers and snorkelers. The water here was remarkable! I saw schools of barracuda, angel fish, various damsel fish, parrot fishes, butterfly fish, and my first encounter with a nurse shark. Woohoo! The third day, Brian took us out to Ranguana to pick up two passengers who were staying in the cottages there. He then took us out to a reef farther out than the previous one we had snorkeled off the caye. He said since the current had changed we would get an unusual treat. Usually one cannot get to the outward side of this reef. It was a magnificent wall, I had never snorkeled a wall before. Incredible! There were coral formations I had never seen before! Countless fish! It was breathtaking! The next day, I took a trip to Monkey River that Sea Horse had arranged. We saw howler monkeys. On our last day we went to the Silk Cayes. The water was rough that day, and visibility was a bit murky, but the reef and fish were beautiful just the same. I have never been to a place as lovely as Placencia. The people of the village are a caring, gracious and insightful people. They care for each other and their beautiful surroundings. I can't wait to return! Liz Duncan, Chattanooga, Tennessee, March 1998

* TRADEWINDS: We drove in and arrived late. Were put in the Queen Conch cabin. I think this was probably a better cabin than we should have had, as it had a nice kitchen with stove, sink, and refrigerator, utensils, etc. It was really nice to be able to put water into the refrigerator and make ice out of bottled water. The cabin also had two double beds (each with a bookcase headboard), and a rack for hanging. There was also a standing fan. There was a private bathroom with a shower. On the porch outside was a table, chairs and a hammock. There were four or five other cabins on the beach. Disadvantages: You have to walk in about a half block through deep sand, which is hard with suitcases especially. Next door is a policeman with a pet rooster who starts crowing on and off at about 2 or 3 a.m. Sheets were a stiff scratchy chiffon- like material. Advantages: Cabins are cleaned every day, and Janice is very nice and helpful. THE GALLEY had very good jazz, good food, and excellent service. I had conch steak and my husband had steamed shrimp. Fresh salad was served when we assured her we would eat it, and grapefruit juice. US$24 for two. OMAR'S was out of just about everything (including beer, pineapple juice, soft drinks , and ice cream), but I had a good large chicken burrito. US$15.25 for two Dinner at KITTY'S was the splurge of the trip. I had seafood lasagna and Bob had snapper and both were excellent. Saw some other folks with really yummy looking big thick steaks. Excellent veggies (zucchini and carrots) and rice. Also had sinfully rich chocolate cake for dessert. US$36.25 for two including tip, no drinks. Rosalie Beasley, Leonardtown, Maryland, March 1998

* I have been a subscriber to your magazine for two years, even before I got involved with my own resort. BOB'S PARADISE is located 1 mile north of the Monkey River, on the ocean, in the jungle. We are self contained, water-access only, make our own electricity, collect rain water. We have three cabanas with showers and hot water, a beautiful tiki bar with the coldest beer around, complete fresh seafood menu, all tours at a nice rate. Most tours are discussed with the locals and tourists at our tiki bar. A new three-cabana B & B is almost ready called The Monkey House -- it is almost on the river and on the ocean. E.J. Wisniewski (bobsparadise@webtv.net), October 1997

* We stayed at the SEA SPRAY HOTEL in Placencia. Fantastically located 10 feet from the water with very reasonable rates (US$30/cabana/off-season). Decently clean. Some ant problems, but no big deal. Nice family owning the place, but the 4-year-old twin boys need to learn better boundaries (were peeping in people's rooms, etc.). Paige Eagle, Takoma Park, Maryland, October 1997

* NAUTICAL INN, Seine Bight (Placencia): This is a charming, friendly, clean, well decorated small hotel. Since it is quite a way out of Placencia Village, you may want to find transportation around the peninsula but one could be perfectly happy just vegging here for a few days. There are all the usual activities which the owners are more than happy to arrange for you. We had a beautiful king-size bed in a half octagon-shaped room on the first floor just off the beach. The bathroom was quite new and the nautical motif throughout was whimsical and attractive. Meals could be served right on the sand as was the case one night when the hotel was entertaining a large group from a cruise ship or you can be served upstairs cozily in a bar/restaurant overlooking the beach and sea. The owners were charming people who genuinely seemed to enjoy what they were doing, sort of like they were attending their own party each day. The food was plentiful and tasty. This was one of the few places we visited where the morning bacon was cooked to American tastes rather than served undercooked like the English prefer it. The beach here, though small, is quite lovely with the requisite blowing palm trees, and the peace and quiet inviting. Dining: B, Rooms: B+, Service: B+, Ambience: B+, Friendliness: A-. If in this area again, we would stay here. Tel. 501-6-22310. Catherine McCabe and Steven Helm, Van Nuys, California, May 1997

* We spent the first six days in Placencia, staying this year at KITTY'S. Kitty's was most pleasant and we found it far more comfortable than TURTLE INN. Little things like bath mats, plastic tubs to wash feet off outside your door, and actually being able to flush toilet paper in the bathroom made it a more enjoyable vacation experience for us. We stayed in one of the beach cabañas which are spacious,bright,and airy and have a coffee maker plus a small refrig with ice trays. The cabañas are close to the beach and really make a difference on hot days and nights, as we were able to catch the breezes off the water. Kitty has also built a new beach bar which was open most nights and because it has electricity, they took a TV down there where we were able to watch some of the Olympics in the evenings! Although the dinners at Kitty's were good -- lots of fresh fish, beans and rice -- we did venture out a couple of nights to try other places. LE PETITE MAISON in Placencia village served the best dinner we had on our trip. The couple who own and run it do an outstanding job of preparing and serving a delicious four-course meal. They sat down to chat with us afterward, which was a treat. We went one evening to the Hotel SEINE BIGHT and felt as though we had walked into an African Bush Lodge! The dinner there was also very good.....as well as the Pimm's Cup we were served in the bar before hand. Placencia did not seem to have changed much since last year. Everyone was complaining about tourism being off in some of the less-expensive places in the village, but Kitty's was full and she turned folks away almost daily while we were there. We have a special place in our hearts for Placencia and are looking forward to going back next year! Mary Hood Pearlman, Asheville, North Carolina, February 1998

* We drove back to Belize City in heavy fog, then flew down to Placencia. Stayed at KITTY'S PLACE, which is very nice and has a good restaurant, but I think it's just too far out of town if you don't have a car. We really enjoyed the beach bar at the COZY CORNER. Took a great trip with OCEAN MOTION out to the Silk Keys and another up the Monkey River. Allison Johnson, Gainesville, Florida, December 1997

* We highly recommend KITTY'S PLACE (contact: tel. 501-6-23227, fax 6-23226, kittys@btl.net, rates US$55 to $155 double, including breakfast, tax and service charge, discounts available off-season) after staying at a few different places in the village. It was the most comfortable, had a lovely restaurant and great snorkeling tours. Be sure to bring your insect repellent -- we cannot stress how many mosquitos and sand fleas we encountered! (If you are itching, pick up some Jungle Salve, sold around Belize, that is quite soothing.) Enjoy. We had a wonderful honeymoon in this beautiful country! Nina Segal and Will Kennedy, Bronxville, New York, April/May 1998

* KITTY'S PLACE (Mailing address: P.O. Box 528, Belize City, Belize, C.A.); tel. 501-6-23227; fax 6-23226. e-mail: kitty@btl.net. Just north of Placencia Village on the Placencia peninsula. Rates: Variety of accommodations, ranging from rooms for US$43 double to the (recommended) newer beach cabanas at US$138 double -- rates include service and tax. Seventh night free and 10% discount options may apply. Classic laid-back beach resort on one of the best beaches in Placencia. Kitty Fox is a (youngish) institution in the hotel business in Belize. Well-run, pleasant, comfortable without being stuffy, good bar and restaurant. The three beach cabanas, the best choices in accommodations, have tile floors, pleasant hardwood walls and ceilings, ceiling fans, first-rate king bed, sitting area, fridge, kitchen table, private porch with hammocks and oceanview. All in all Kitty's is one of the best places to stay in Belize. This is a place you can really kick your shoes off and relax. It's better than ever. Highly recommended. Kitty's also offers access to French Louis Caye, a small mangrove caye off the coast where, for US$50 per person, you can camp in splendid and primitive isolation (rate includes campsite, all meals, and a kayak). Would I go back? You bet. Lan Sluder, BELIZE FIRST, August 1996, July 1998

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