Punta Gorda Reader Updates

Two new lodging places I love in PG are CORAL HOUSE INN and HICKATEE COTTAGES. Americans Rick and Darla Mallory bought and renovated a 1938 colonial-era house and turned it into one of the coolest guesthouses in Belize. You'll recognize the CORAL HOUSE INN by the coral color and the vintage red and white VW van parked in front. There are Confederate graves in the cemetery next door, a legacy of the Confederate immigration to Toledo after the U.S. Civil War. There's also good glass and bottle hunting on the waterfront nearby. The four guest rooms, US$75 to $95, have tile floors, good beds, air-conditioning and wireless high speed internet. There's a small swimming pool. 151 Front St., Punta Gorda; tel. 501/722-2878; www.coralhouseinn.net

A British couple, Ian and Kate Morton, built HICKATEE COTTAGES lodge, a little over a mile south of PG. It opened in late 2005. The three Caribbean-style cottages, with zinc roofs and private porches, are nestled in lush foliage. Rates are an affordable US$60 double. Meals are available (dinner is US$15, and full AP is US$25 per person), with fruits and vegetables from the owners' organic nursery next door. A hickatee, by the way, is a river turtle, Dermatemys mawii. Ex-Servicemen Rd., Punta Gorda; tel. 501/662-4475; www.hickatee.com

Another addition to the hotel scene in PG is BEYEA SUITES. You can't miss it -- it's painted a bright pink. It's Belizean-owned and very nice, with six rooms with air-conditioning and TVs. Rates are around US$75 to $90 double. Front St., #6 Hopeville, Punta Gorda; tel. 501/722-2188; www.beyasuites.com.

EL PESCADOR PG, the most upscale lodge in Southern Belize, and ably run by Jim Scott and his wife, seems to be doing beautifully. Emery Restaurant and Gracefs are still good places to eat. I stopped by SUN CREEK LODGE, which I had not seen before. I missed Bruno Kuppinger but met his beautiful Belizean wife, Melissa. Bruno, from Germany, runs tours, including a new high-adventure tour to the remote Columbia River Forest Reserve, called Maya Divide. Melissa focuses on the lodge and does the cooking, and Im told she's an excellent chef. The thatch cabanas at this budget-level lodge are simple but look comfortable, with outdoor showers surrounded by plants. The grounds are nicely landscaped. Car rentals available. 14 miles from Punta Gorda, off Mile 86, Southern Hwy.; tel. 501/604-2124; www.belizenet.de.

Farther north, THE LODGE AT BIG FALLS has added a swimming pool. This is a wonderful little lodge, with six thatch cabanas, a great spot for birding and wildlife spotting. Owners Marta and Rob Hirons are working hard to make this lodge successful. In-season rates are US$155 double, plus US$44 per person for three meals. Off Mile 79, Southern Hwy.; tel. 888/865-3369 in U.S. and Canada; www.thelodgeatbigfalls.com.

Lan Sluder, January 2006

* I just returned from a 10 day vacation in Cancun and mostly in Belize, and had a great time. I flew into Cancun and took an air-conditioned OCC bus (US$35 total cost) into Belize and down to Punta Gorda, my destination of choice. I stayed at the ST. CHARLES INN for BZE$25/night, or $12.50 per night US dollars, with a cooling fan and TV; and private bathroom facilities. I considered the place a good value for the money! Michelle at the front desk was most informative and easy to talk to. The only negative aspect of the trip was the double entry fee that Mexico imposed, but that was only US$10. If I had only stayed for the seven days advertised, the air trip would have been only $298.00, instead of the $519.00 that I actually paid. The other aspect is the BZE$37.50 cost of leaving the country by land. I also spent about the same amount of money during two days in Mexico as I did in seven days in Belize. Today I read the cost of flying roundtrip (from Colorado) to Belize can be as low as $515, so it would be wise to just fly into Belize City, instead of Cancun as I did, and save the extra 18 hours of bus time. The Toledo area certainly lived up to its reputation of being wet, as it rained seven out of the ten days I spent there, but the pleasing aspect of that is it rained only during the night. I woke up most nights with the sizzling display of lightning and loud claps of thunder over PG. The southern highway is still not finished, and they are not actively working on it now. Of course, the main road flooded on the way out of town, but pulling all the luggage from under the belly of the bus, we went through about 40' of water across the highway anyway. All in all, I had a very nice time, but a little on the hot and humid side. There are some good values for land and houses there if you work through the Development for Finance Corporation; like our tax sales here in the US; just make a bid on the available property, and you can buy it. Living there can be very easy and much cheaper than the US if you enjoy the warm weather during the summer months. PS I was not bothered at all by the mosquitos!
William J. Freeman, Colorado, July 2004

* On our drive south to Punta Gorda, we stopped at a couple of new lodges. One is disappointing; the other is exciting. Somewhat of a disappointment was BELIZE LODGE AND EXCURSIONS, part of a complex of southern Belize accommodations and tours that have been in the planning and construction process for years. Eventually, besides the lodge at Indian Creek, about 23 miles north of PG, thereÕs supposed to be a camp at Golden Stream and a lodge on Moho Caye. It took me awhile to talk my way into the fortress-like grounds of Indian Creek Lodge. The security guards didnÕt seem keen on having anyone come in and look around, but finally they allowed as how it would be okay. I was told that a few guests had come to the lodge, but that it wasn't open right now. It took another half hour for someone to come up with a key to one of the 12 cabins. The cabins are small but have nice views from a hilltop. Near the entrance in a lodge building are the reception area, restaurant and bar. There's a man-made lake and airstrip under construction. I hope this outfit will finally get its act together, and maybe it will. The lodge's Web site claims that it will open in November for the 2003-2004 season. (Editor's note: See below for a different perspective on BLE.) For info: www.belizelodge.com, or get in touch with the lodgeÕs Belize City office, tel./fax 501-223-6324. Lan Sluder, Asheville, NC, July 2003

* I was more impressed by the LODGE AT BIG FALLS. This new lodge, on about 30 acres on the banks of the Rio Grande River near the village of Big Falls, opened in March. The owners, Americans who lived for years in England, are Rob and Marta Hirons. They've done a good job developing the lodge property. The accommodations are what most visitors are looking for in a lodge Ñ thatch caba–as, but nice ones, with tile floors and private baths. The main lodge building has a restaurant, library and computer with satellite Internet access. Kerosene lamps provide the light. There are plans to add a swimming pool. The Hironses did what many new hotel operators in Belize don't do: They hired a marketing consultant with local knowledge and invested in a business and marketing plan. Whether Toledo has the tourism base for a jungle lodge in this area is another matter, one that only time will decide. Fallen Stones Lodge nearby, for example, has closed, although the butterfly farm is still open. Blue Creek Lodge has reopened after rebuilding from Iris, but the jungle canopy walk isnÕt back up. For info, visit www.thelodgeatbigfalls.com . Current rates: May to October, US$110 double; rest of year, US$135. Breakfast and lunch are US$8 each, dinner US$24. Tours of Lubaantun and Nim Il Punit each cost US$45 for two, and other tours are available. Transfer from the PG airport is US$40 for up to four people. Lan Sluder, Asheville, NC, July 2003 * One new lodge in Toledo that seems to be doing well, exceeding its projections for the first year, is EL PESCADOR PG. Of course El Pescador is a niche property, a fishing lodge, and it was able to build on its base of guests from El Pescador on North Ambergris. El Pescador was closed when I was in PG, but the co-manager, Jim Scott (JimÕs wife, Debbie, also is manager), was kind enough to let us stay overnight anyway. The lodge is set on a steep hill, called Big Hill for the farm that was originally here, on 470 acres above the Rio Grande. A small tram takes guests down to the boats docked on the river at the base of the hill. Up top, on a clear day, you have views of the Gulf of Honduras, with Guatemala and Honduras in the distance. I didnÕt see or hear any, but IÕm told troops of howler monkeys come by frequently. Accommodations are in 12 identical cottages, nicely outfitted with tile floors, private baths, and air-conditioning. The focus here is on permit fishing, with one of the best permit fisheries in the world, although the lodge guides can also take you out for tarpon, bonefish or snook. The lodge restaurant serves vegetables, fruit and herbs from the lodgeÕs farm. ThereÕs a nice pool, too. Packages here reflect the angling orientation and include room, three meals a day, transfers, taxes and fishing. Per-person rates start at US$1,520 for three nights with two days of fishing (two people per room, two in a boat) and go up to $8,695 for 14 nights (one person per room and per boat.) Non-fishing rates start at US$990 double for three nights, including meals. Logan Gentry who with his sister, Ali, ran El Pescador on Ambergris and helped start El Pescador PG, died in a San Pedro boating accident last year. For information on El Pescador PG, see www.elpescadorpg.com or phone 501-722-0050 or 800-242-2017, or fax 501-722-0051. Lan Sluder, Asheville, NC, July 2003 The news all over Belize while I was there was about the tragic death June 23 of Cheney Roberts, co-owner of TRANQUILITY LODGE in Jacintoville near PG. Cheney designed and built the lodge and restaurant. A number of people have asked about the future of Tranquility Lodge. Peter Eltringham, a special friend of CheneyÕs and author of the wonderful Rough Guide to Belize (which he is now updating) and updater of Insight Belize guide, writes to say that, yes, Tranquility will remain open. Penney Leonard, CheneyÕs business partner, will be managing the lodge. Peter continues: ÒWeÕre in a peaceful, secluded setting on 20 acres of former farmland and pasture, with over half the area in secondary growth rainforest. ThereÕs a large, safe parking area. A short trail from the gardens leads to beautiful, rock-lined Jacinto Creek, with a simply gorgeous and safe swimming hole. No one lives upstream so the water is utterly pristine! Accommodation is on the ground floor, in four very spacious, tiled rooms with ceiling fans and remote control a/c. All have a private bathroom with hot shower and thereÕs a tiled sitting area to enjoy the gardens. Upstairs is a large screened, dining room, thatched with 9,000 bay palm leaves, and a comfortable lounge area with all round views. Our guests enjoy relaxing up here, reading books on Belize, watching birds and simply making themselves at home. The bird watching here is wonderful, with a total list of over 200 species seen on the property Ð 111 were recorded in just one week around last Christmas. At the western edge of the lodge thereÕs more forest, with another small creek. Just up the road just up the road lie the Maya villages and Maya ruins of Toledo, framed by the magnificent Maya Mountains. Also, weÕre only seven miles from the sea, with the Port Honduras and Sapodilla Cayes Marine Reserves offshore. ThereÕs a lot to offer in this Òforgotten cornerÓ of Belize! Rates are US$50 for a double room, including a full breakfast (plus 7% hotel tax). Healthy meals, served family style, are prepared to satisfy individual preferences. Dinner is US$12.50 per person, and includes dessert and beverage. For more information or to make a booking, please e-mail Penny Leonard, mspennyl@yahoo.com or me, peter.eltringham@ukonline.co.uk. The web site is www.tranquility-lodge.com .Ó Lan Sluder, Asheville, NC, July 2003
Despite the near-completion of the Southern Highway surfacing, Punta Gorda Town seems as sleepy as ever. Several of the better restaurants in town, including the one that most people say is the best, EARTH RUNNING, were closed for the summer, and some, including Punta Caliente, appear closed permanently. We did have a fine breakfast at GRACE'S, however. Someday, maybe, Toledo will be a major tourist destination, but in my opinion that time is still a long way off. Still, for those who want to get off the beaten path a bit and explore a truly untouristy part of the world, PG and all of Toledo are green and wonderful. Toledo has been plagued of late by vampires -- not the undead kind but the bat kind. TheyÕve sucked the blood of a lot of cattle and a few humans. Lan Sluder, Asheville, NC, July 2003
* Regarding Toledo, we spent Winter 2003 down in PG. We were guests at the BELIZE LODGE & EXPEDITIONS Indian Creek Camp as well as their Golden Stream Camp; we even got out to their location on Moho Caye. Absolutely the best lodging concept in all of Belize, and service could not have been better. Of course, if and when as you say, "they get their act together" to be open, the project will be a great asset for Toledo adventurers. The best restaurant in PG is not Earth Runnings, though they have good food and the best Internet access in town. The absolute best food in town for quality and price and consistency was EMERY'S restaurant just off Front Street, next to the gas station. For money exchange, cold beer and good food, you can't go wrong with GRACE's. We were able to meet Cheney Roberts, what a nice lady. TRANQUILITY is nice, as well as EL PESCADOR. From our personal experience, the best economy priced lodging in town was the AIRPORT HOTEL or NATURE'S WAY, while the worst overall was SEAFRONT INN where we as well as other guest we met over the winter were extremely disappointed in the Seafront Inn. Regina
* One day we took a trip, by boat, to Punta Gorda to see the local market. We spent the morning walking around "people watching," then walked several blocks up the hill to PUNTA CALIENTE where we ate lunch. This was without a doubt the best lunch of our trip. We ordered the special, which was pan-fried snapper, and it was outstanding. They had the whole place decorated for Valentine's Day and gave us each a balloon as we left ... and a hug! On the trip back to Placencia, we made a stop at a small lagoon where there lived a man called "Hard Luck Charlie." Seems he was an expat who moved there. At one time HE had a wife and children living there with him. They built a small house and another building which serves as the kitchen.She kept having babies, and, as the story goes, after the twins were born, her parents swooped down and took her back to the States. Charlie became quite a local character, living there alone, drinking lots of rum, and receiving visitors whenever someone stopped by. A few years ago, he met a woman named Patty, who eventually moved in with him. On January 2 of this year, he left to take a friend to Punta Gorda and did not come home. After a day or so, Patty became concerned and a search was started. She found him near his boat, drowned. The word is that he had fallen out of the boat, probably hitting his head. Charlie is buried there near the lagoon (Patty and a friend buried him) and now everyone is calling her "Hard Luck Patty." She told us she was going to try to stay there lone and take care of the place, maybe start a bar and small restaurant for the few sailboats that anchor there. I admire her spunk! Mary Hood Pearlman, Asheville, North Carolina, February 1998

* LETTER FROM THE SEA FRONT INN: We have been enjoying your magazine for several months and would love to invite you to come down and see what we are doing in the south here. We have been doing a healthy amount of business since our grand opening on Nov. 7th of 98. Recently some of our guests, (a group of 5 adults & one teen) cried when they left and have since emailed twice to tell us that it was the very best vacation that they have ever had and that we were all so great that they can't even tell their friends about it as there are no words. Another family that was recently here said that they had been going to Placencia (staying at a very nice place) for 4 years but their 3 days with us was the best and they would be back. Anyway, I am sending a little information about the hotel that we send to people who are inquiring by e-mail. The Sea Front Inn is located on Front Street on the edge of Punta Gorda Town and is built specifically with the tourist in mind. It is a hand-built, four-story building using many of the local hardwoods. As the name implies, we are located on the sea which offers spectacular views and delicious breezes. Our third-story restaurant makes you feel that you are dining in a rosewood forest above the sea. We offer local and international cuisine. All of our furniture is handcrafted here at the Inn by skilled local laborers. Each hotel room has a different theme and local hardwood to express it. Each room has a/c, cable TV, private bath with hot & cold water. Our room rates: For a room with one double bed, US$50. For a room with 2 double beds--US$60. For 3 double beds--US$70. We also have an economy room with a set of bunk beds in it for US$40. These prices have the gov't tax already included. A continental breakfast is included with each room (the exception is groups). We can help set up land and sea tours and are agents for Tropic and Maya Island Air. We can also set up packages to Guatemala which is only a 50 minute boat ride from Punta Gorda. There is so much to see in the district of Toledo,Belize: waterfalls, Mayan ruins, caves, rivers, Mayan and Kekchi villages with English speaking Indians, uninhabited islands with white sand beaches, the coral reef which invites scuba diving or snorkeling, swimming and sport/fly fishing. Thank you, Carol at the Sea Front Inn, February 1999