Orange Walk District Reader Updates

Orange Walk District

* Thanks so much for your advice. Our family loved Belize. We stayed 3 nights at Blacaneaux, which was wonderful. We took side trips to Tikal, Caricol, and Barton Creek Caves, and our grandkids rode horses for the first time. The steps almost killed me (I have had a knee replacement), but the riverfront villas were great. We chartered to Gallon Jug and then spent 3 nights at CHAN CHICH. It was exciting, and perhaps more fun for our grandkids...with the monkeys, birds and other wildlife.The owner, Barry Bowen, was there, and was most gracious. We then chartered to Placencia and spent the last 4 nights at Turtle Inn. Snorkeling, diving, and fishing were all superb. We stayed at Francis Ford Coppola's Pavillion, along with another seaside cottage. Our accomodations were excellent at all three properties. American Airlines lost our bags on the way down...it took us 30 hours to get them, and although we returned on Dec. 31st, our kids are still without their bags. Changing planes in Miami at this time of year is more than just risky. Again, thanks for your advice.....we loved Belize. Dick Steinberg, January 2006

* Not too much has changed in Orange Walk, but here are a couple of notable additions: I enjoyed the new El Establo Bar & Grill, a friendly, family-run eatery near the northern end of the Orange Walk bypass. It’s run by Albino and Ada Vargas. The escabeche was delicious! Indian Hill, Northern Hwy; tel 501/322-0094. Orlando de la Fuente's and his wife have opened HOTEL DE LA FUENTE, a nice addition to the very limited hotel scene in Orange Walk Town. The low rates (around US$25 to $40) put it among the best values in Northern Belize. All 8 rooms have air-conditioning and DSL broadband, and there are also 2 suites with kitchenettes. The lobby doubles as a pawn shop, handy if you need a little extra cash. 14 Main St., Orange Walk Town; tel. 501/322-2290; www.hoteldelafuente.com. Out in the country, LAMANAI OUTPOST LODGE, with its beautiful setting on the New River Lagoon, has switched to a near-all inclusive plan with all meals and activities, such as boat trips to catch and tag crocodiles, included, and rates are concomitantly higher. One change that concerns me is the addition of air boats for trips on the lagoon -- they are insanely LOUD. LAMANAI SOUTH LODGE is a new spot that is a less-expensive option for overnighting near the Lamanai ruins. On 52 acres right at the edge of New River Lagoon, the lodge has four rooms in a coral-colored building. Rooms are around US$150 double. Indian Church Village, tel. 501/615-1892; www.lamanaisouth.com. Lan Sluder, December 2005

* Just returned from a great 9 days in Belize. Found Lan Sluder's book Adapter Kit: Belize quite educational. This is a unique little country. We spent two nights at BLUE CREEK VILLAGE BED & BREAKFAST (Orange Walk District) owned by John & Judy Klaasen who are Mennonites. This was really a quiet, friendly & scenic place to stay. Also inexpensive. From there we were fortunate enough to be allowed to drive through Gallon Jug to San Ignacio. It took a few calls but the scenic drive was sure worth it. We spent our last 3 days near Placencia at Gary & Ann Miller's - Miller's Landing. Really enjoyed this place as well. Only real problems we had were rental car problems - leaky radiator, clutch troubles, and a flat tire. The roads really take their toll, don't they? Willy, who seemed to be the local handyman/mechanic/taxi driver was very helpful and quite a colorful guy. Only thing was, it seemed to cost $25 Bze no matter what the repair. We thought that quite comical. Thought I'd just drop a line and let you know a bit about our trip. Thanks for your help, Dave Neubauer, February 2005

* We ended up renting a Suziki Jimmy from Budget and driving to the property; actually we ended up driving to there and more (appr. 750 miles, mainly on dirt), and thought the drive was wonderful. Yes it is a little rough at times, but the sights were wonderful. A tip on Blue Creek; the little Mennonite lady that has the B&B also has a store along the main road. She has the most heavenly (no pun intended) smooth ice cream that she sells there that is of course local made. We looked at her B&B and it was clean and simple, as expected, and very reasonably priced. Program for Belize and Gallon Jug are wonderful, pristine parts of Belize. Actually, aside from the dining ambience at Chaa Creek, we felt that CHAN CHICH was the finest property we visited in the month (two 2-week trips) that we've spent in Belize. While staying at Chan Chich, we visited the village of Sylvester twice and now rank it as the #1 village to visit in Belize. Also the "escarpment" outside of Sylvester, although tough on the car, is a view that takes your breath away. Dor'e Pearson-Smyth and Patrick Smyth, June 2003

* The best place we went in Belize was LAMANAI OUTPOST LODGE. We can't recommend this place
highly enough. It's a nice cabana style resort up the New River estuary and about a mile from the Lamanai ruins. The Lamanai ruins are quite small compared to Tikal, but the chance to get to explore them so closely is nice. They offer lots of different ways to see the area including a night-time spotlight safari which was excellent. That trip is by motor boat, but they also have canoes for other trips. Being so close to Lamanai,
you can get over there in the morning before the tourists arrive and climb up the temples to see the birds and howler monkeys. You can have the place pretty much to yourself. The food was great. The owners and staff are wonderful. There are usually some university researchers on site as the owners provide them with accommodations on the cheap -- this is a nice feature -- for chatting in the evening about their research. They offer all-inclusive packages from the capital. The package is worth getting because the transportation into the place is a part of the fun. They bring you in via motor boat up the estuary -- about an hour's ride. And on the
way out, they put you on a small plane -- we flew at about 1000' feet over the marshes on the 20 minute trip back to the airport in the capital. The cabanas seems to be arranged so that each has a nice view of the river. If you go, be prepared for the howler monkeys. They keep two on site. They have been trying to rehabilitatethem -- they were rescued from a bad pet situation. The owners have hired two women full-time to spend each day with them trying to get them to reacclimate to the surrounding forest. It seems like a hopeless project as the monkeys seem to like hanging out in the hammocks with the guests. As it
turns out, they are pretty successful ambassadors for the forest by offering people close contact with animals they would otherwise only see from a distance. (Someone sent a million dollars for habitat preservation after
meeting them.) At first we weren't sure what to make of it though. Paul J. Ferraro,
Cornell University, Ithaca, New York, Submitted April 2001 on a 1999 trip.

* My wife and I, 50-something, spent a week at Chan Chich in early Dec, 01. It was as great as various sources had lead us to hope for. The small-plane ride in was exilerating, seeing nothing but tree-tops in all directions. The setting was great: the authentic thatch-roof buildings, tropical flora on the well-kept grounds, and the jungle surrounding it. The food was great too, with more selection than we had expected...a menu of maybe 10/12 entrees per meal. Their policy on tipping...leave one all-encompassing one at the end, don't worry about it until then...and the atmosphere of trust..."honor system" cold beverages at the pool round-the-clock...made us relaxed and comfortable throughout. We were not really birders coming in, but became such, for a week at least, as the fantastic guides on various tours spotted many species for us. We had mainly been thinking parrots, and did see plenty of them flying into the complex in mornings and evenings. We saw spider monkeys literally from the porch of our cabana on occasion, and howlers literally while relaxing at the pool one afternoon. We saw many mammals, mostly on the drives. Besides monkeys the most exotic were peccaries, a tayra, and a tamandua anteater which I saw way up in a tree with binoculars while hiking. Mesquitos were NOT a major problem. One thing I must warn the sedentary about...the complex is on a Mayan plaza. Because of that the hiking trails general start by going downhill, and finish with a final and (by then) difficult uphill climb. Also, the trails often have a very thin but very sticky layer of mud. I just left my sneakers on the porch all week. Nonetheless, I loved hiking the trails...mainly at dawn while my wife slept late. The late night howling of the Black Howlers, often very close-by, was seriously reminiscent of King Kong's roars. It was exilerating and a definite highlight of the trip. Overall....fabulous! C. Woodrow, December 2001

* CHICH LODGE, Gallon Jug, Orange Walk District. For info and reservations, contact P.O. Box 37, Belize City, tel./fax 501-2-34419; in the U.S., 800-343-8009; e-mail info@chanchic.com. 1999 rates US$145 double Nov. 1-Apr. 30, US$90 rest of year, plus hotel tax. Full meal plan additional US$46 per adult including VAT. All-inclusive packages including room, meals, all taxes, most activities and complimentary Belikin and soft drinks, US$350 double in- season, US$275 off-season. I was eager for my wife and kids to see one of the truly great jungle lodges in the Western Hemisphere. They were not disappointed. "The brochure pictures don't begin to do justice to this place," my wife said as we drove into the lodge area. Chan Chich is what most people dream of when they think of a jungle lodge -- rustic but private thatch-roof cabañas with plenty of hot water and porches with hammocks for lazin', Maya ruins literally beneath your feet, the bush just outside the door (but Chan Chich is so far removed from the two-legged jungle you don't even lock your room) and scads of birds and wildlife. This is one of the best places in Belize to see a jaguar, and serious birders can add scores of unusual birds to their life lists. Though we happened to hit a rainy time to visit, our kids enjoyed the walks on cut paths (my 9-year-old had enough birding after a couple of hours, however), especially the night walks. The new pool is gorgeous. With its waterfall, tropical plantings and Mexican tile decking, it is one of the most appealing pools I've ever seen. It is screened in, so that you're not bothered by unwanted critters or leaves. Josie and the Brothers Harding provided their usual friendly but not obsequious hospitality, and the food, while it will not win a Michelin toque anytime soon, was very good. I especially enjoyed the casual breakfasts with plenty of Gallon Jug Estate coffee. I guarantee you'll love this place. Lan Sluder, BELIZE FIRST, July 1998 and other dates

* We spent three full days at CHAN CHICH LODGE. Chan Chich means "little bird" and there were a LOT of little and large birds that one could see on one's own, or learn more about by taking guided tours (highly recommended!!) The best for us was the early morning tour, as we saw more birds and animals then. In the future, my husband and I would pass on the nighttime tour, as we saw nothing. The food was good, nothing special, but the staff was terrific, as Norman Harding, the bartender, and Tom and Josie Harding, the managers, had everything running perfectly. The grounds and 9 miles of trail are beautifully maintained. It isn't inexpensive but well worth it and worth doing again!! Betsy Benoit, Warwick, Rhode Island, April 1998

* CHAN CHICH: Stayed at Chan Chich for 4 nights. Chan Chich was our least favorite of three places we stayed on our first trip to Central America and Belize (the other two were Pelican Beach on South Water Caye and Ek 'Tun near San Ignacio). Chan Chich is WAY overrated, fell below our expectations, mediocre to bad food, rooms in need of repair, would not recommend, unless you're a devoted birder, though we did have an excellent guide and saw a good bit of wildlife. Chan Chich is a 15 minute drive from the Gallon Jug airstrip. We arrived at the lodge in time for lunch. If you like the food at Applebee?s and Marriott hotels, you?ll love the food at Chan Chich. Lunches were particularly bad; dinners and breakfasts were mediocre at best, though admittedly we'd just come from having home-cooked meals prepared for only 4 people at Ek'Tun. However, I still don't know why anyone would serve hot vegetable soup for lunch in the junglewhen it's 90 degrees in the shade. The tables in the dining room are set up so that several have a commanding view of the kitchen door. The waitresses were polite, but seemed unhappy to be alive. After our lunch, we were led to our cabana. Unfortunately, it was located directly behind the kitchen and bar, next to the area where the maids do laundry, adjoining the parking lot where they park the tour bus and van. And this was the "suite" cabana, (#12). The view from our cabana was of stacks of bottles piled up outside the bar?s backdoor and mops hanging on the wall behind the kitchen; instead of the sounds and smells of nature, we had the sounds and smells from the kitchen?s exhaust fan. A low earthen berm with some strategically placed plants would help. Other cabanas to avoid are #1 (next to main parking lot) and #11 (to the side of the kitchen). That evening, we climbed to the upper plaza of the ruins to see a beautiful sunset; you can see for miles around. Unfortunately the upper plaza is also behind the kitchen, and the rattling of the kitchen exhaust fan continued to be an annoyance. After the sun set, we headed to the bar for some pre-dinner drinks. Norm, the bartender, had a great blues CD in, and served up ice-cold Belikin beers. We played backgammon before dinner; they've got some good munchies out as appetizers each night. Dinner was OK, but the waitresses still seemed unhappy to be alive. The rest of our dinners were OK to bad (pork "tender"loin was dry and tough). After assessing the other cabanas, we asked to be moved to cabana #2 or #9, both of which are a little more private than the rest. Some cabanas are less than 10 feet away from each other, and offer little privacy--you'll be able to hear your neighbor in the shower in the morning. Fortunately, #2 was available. It is BY FAR the best-located cabana--very private, with a nice view of a clearing in the jungle and right next to part of the ruins. The staff moved our bags and they were very accommodating making the switch. I feel like it's not the first time they've had to move guests from #12. Inside, the cabana was in need of some repairs. Large pieces of the fake wood-grain film on the ceiling fan came off when ever it was turned on. The paint on the cement floor of the shower was peeling badly; the cement floor itself was chipping in places. The toilet handle had to be jiggled after each use to stop it from running. Several of the fake plants in the room had seen their better days (FAKE PLANTS in a jungle lodge???). On the positive side, the bed was EXTREMELY comfortable. The hammocks on the porch were also extremely comfortable, as were the chairs. We?d stop by the bar in the afternoon and get a bucket of Belikins and lie in the hammocks, reading or watching the local male turkey strut his stuff for the females. There was always a breeze. Went for a hike on one of the well-marked trails around Chan Chich. All the trails are raked continually. The benefit of this is you are able to hear many things you would miss tromping through the leaves on a non-raked trail. Also, the guides do a lot of the raking, so they spend their time out on the trails and thus are able to know the best places to spot particular animals. We saw a red sprocket deer, flocks of toucans and parrots as well as other birds on our hike. Went for a dip in the pool that afternoon; very refreshing, the pool is screened-in and monkeys frequent the trees behind the pool. If the lodge was full, the pool would be crowded. Since we were there at the end of the high season, there were at most only 8 others in the lodge while we were there, so this wasn't a problem. The pool included a fake waterfall and jacuzzi. Also while at Chan Chich, we rode horses and went on a night hike, both of which I'd recommend. The only thing to note about the night hike, is the first stop is the Chan Chich garbage dump, since that's where leopards are most likely to be seen; I think that's a very sad commentary about Chan Chich's lack of environmental sensitivity. Ask to skip the dump, even if it is the most likely place to see a wild cat. I'd recommend a guided hike as soon as you arrive, to familiarize yourself with the flora and fauna; the guide we had, Gilberto, was excellent. Saw a troop of Howler monkeys while on our hike with Gilberto, probably the highlight of our visit to Chan Chich. Overall, we were dissapointed by the accomodations at Chan Chich, dissapointed with the unhappy-to-be-alive waitresses, as well as the lack of environental consideration the lodge shows. I'd skip Chan Chich entirely were we to do our trip over again. Jim Hock, North Carolina, April 1999

* Stayed at CHAN CHICH LODGE for two nights and thoroughly enjoyed everything about it. The Hardings have done a wonderful job not only on building and maintaining the facilities, but especially on training the staff and fostering a positive and friendly atmosphere. The cabañas were meticulously kept, the bar a nice place to start the evening, and the dining room staff top-notch. We arrived middle of the afternoon, and Josie rustled up a lunch pronto. She dismissed it as leftovers, but it was a very thoughtful gesture. Since it was a Sunday, the store at Blue Creek was closed, so it was a long drive from Belize City. The pathways are well maintained, and the visiting archeology students provided a nice ambiance and source of information. Our guide for a tour of the Gallon Jug area, José, was well trained and very knowledgeable about the local fauna and flora, and expressed himself very well! Brought home some of the Gallon Jug coffee and will miss it when we run out. An excellent visit without a flaw -- very highly recommended. Tom and Celeste Hanagan, Emeryville, California, June 1998

* Our final stop in Belize was CHAN CHICH LODGE. Its reputation and because their cabanas' ceiling fans had power 24 hours a day were two valid reasons for its selection. The folks at Chan Chich live their respect and concern for their environment. We found them to be most knowledgeable about nature which added dramatically to the pleasures of our stay. The fully screened cabañas were very nicely furnished and very clean. The swimming pool was a delight and helped one cool off after a sweaty hike on one of the many well-marked jungle trails surrounding Chan Chich. The entire pool and hot tub were screened adding to the pleasure of the swim. Halfway through our stay we experienced what we perceived to be a deterioration of food service and quality. At the beginning of our stay, for example, the breakfast fruit plate contained at least five varieties of delicious local fruits. Toward the end of our stay that same selection contained a very small quantity of two fruits .. A special treat during our stay was a trip to the Lamanai Mayan ruins. Thanks to Chan Chich management, Lamanai Outpost Lodge provided a guide as well as a tasty lunch. The guide as well as our taxi driver were extremely knowledgeable of Maya history and nature. In fact, I did not know if we were ever going to get back to Chan Chich as our driver stopped the van so often in order that we could see a Laughing Hawk or iguana or whatever. The cost of the trip for four was US$200 plus tips but well worth it. Gordon Fenner, Edenton, North Carolina, July 1998

* The PROGRAMME FOR BELIZE LAS MILPAS site cabañas were a pleasant surprise. Not a resort, but really a nice experience for people looking for a light eco- adventure. We liked the people there, and the food is more than rice and beans. The cooking is regional with a little Mexican flair and we found it to be about the best of our three-week trip. Ron Hay, Orient, Ohio, January 1998

* LAMANAI OUTPOST LODGE, near Indian Church village and Lamanai ruins, Orange Walk District. Contact: tel. 501-2-33578 or in the U.S. 888-733-7864, e-mail lamanai@btl.net. One of my favorite lodges in Belize went through a trying period after owner Colin Howells sold it in 1996 (shortly thereafter, tragically, he died of a heart attack in Honduras.) Now Colin's son Mark and wife Monique are firmly back in the saddle, and things are looking up at Lamanai. Mark is in Belize's grand tradition of bold personalities and bigger-than-life expat characters, and Monique has the looks, and cheekbones, of a Vogue model. The lodge itself has one of Belize's most beautiful settings, on the New River Lagoon. One of the highlights of this trip was a nightspotting and crocodile-catching trip (a Texas grad student is studying the crocodile populations in the area) offered by Lamanai Outpost on the lagoon and New River. We didn't catch any crocs that night (the next night the catch totaled three big 'uns) but saw many nocturnal birds and animal. The trip on the water would be great even if you see nothing. Cabañas at Lamanai are traditional thatch, each set with some privacy in the garden-like grounds. Food, served family-style, is hearty and plentiful. My daughter enjoyed meeting the lodge's resident parrot and howler monkeys. The ruins are within walking distance, and a new community butterfly farm is also nearby. Lan Sluder, BELIZE FIRST, July 1998 and other dates

* D-VICTORIA HOTEL, 40 Belize-Corozal Road (Northern Highway), Orange Walk Town, Belize, C.A. Tel. 501-3-22518. Rates: US$25 double fan, US$35 double w/AC plus tax -- rates somewhat negotiable. In-town hotel in a part of Belize with little interest for most tourists. This hotel on the "main drag" is mostly for business people and those just passing through. The hotel is a step up from basic, but it definitely isn't a Holiday Inn. It is probably clean enough but it could use a fresh scrubbing. Would I stay here next trip? It would be depressing to spend more than one night here. Lan Sluder, BELIZE FIRST