Belmopan Area Reader Updates

* BANANA BANK LODGE: My husband & I spent 10-days in Belize in Nov. 2003. I found your list/ratings so helpful in planning the trip that I was hesitant to disagree with you. But I thought our experience may help others; therefore I must dispute the ratings you give to two lodges/resorts that appear on the list. We spent 7 days at Turneffe Island Lodge and 2 days/2 nights at Banana Bank Lodge in Belmopan. I don’t know when you last visited either of these resorts but a new visit may help you re-evaluate them.

First, I would like to tell you about our experience at Banana Bank. We were greeted at the airport by a Banana Bank employee in a Chevy Suburban that was so beat-up that we couldn’t operate the windows without help from the driver. The normal ferry to the lodge was not running because the river was high, so we had to take a boat to the lodge. The steps to the boat were dangerously slick with mud, and upon reaching the boat, the seats were so filthy we had to stand for the ride across a raging river. The walkway to the lodge ended before we got to the main building or our cabana so we had to slog through the mud, ruining our shoes. Because there was not a mat in front of the door of our cabana, mud was tracked through the room by whoever came in. We arrived after dark and wanted to read a bit and unwind after a day of traveling. The lack of lighting in the cabana made that impossible. The sheets and towels were old and thin, and it seems that the bath mats and bath towels are interchangeable.

The employee that picked us up at the airport gave us our room key and pointed in the direction of the room instead of showing us to our cabana. Also, if I hadn’t asked about meal times, I don’t think we would have eaten. Meals were served family style, which I enjoy, but I have to take exception with being forced to say grace at every meal. Now I was brought up to be respectful, but I am a paying customer, not a guest in their home. I didn’t spend $160 night to be subject to someone else’s religious beliefs at every meal. The advertised pool, costs an additional $10 per person, is at least 1/3 mile away from the lodge, and is not the property of/owned by Banana Bank Lodge. You have to pay to use the neighbor’s pool!

On our final morning, we went for a horseback ride because this is Banana Bank Lodge and Mountain Equestrian Center after all. It was every miserable hack ride we have ever been on. The guide took us on a trail ride around in a big circle through Tiger Creek and back. Now, it had been raining for 6 days straight so our only pair of long pants were covered with mud by the time the ride ended. By then, we couldn’t wait to leave but as before, the boats seats were covered with dirt and mud. And we were supposed to tip people?

As we left, our hearts were sinking at the thought of having to spend the next 7 days at Turneffe Island Lodge, a lodge that was ranked 3 1⁄2 stars compared to 4 stars at Banana Bank Lodge. What were we to expect from 3 1⁄2 stars, after such poor service and amenities at a 4 star lodge?

We were so surprised - the service and amenities at Turneffe Island Lodge far exceeded our expectations, and your ratings.

Tricia and Vince Salese, Berkeley Heights, NJ – Nov. 2003

Editor's Note: We visited Banana Bank Lodge this summer, and our experiences were different from yours (though we did find the staff a little casual, the swimming pool situation is misleading.) In our Fodor's Belize & Guatemala 2005 we did give Turneffe Island Lodge a "Highly Recommended" rating (a starred property.)

--Lan Sluder

* Your web site was helpful to our vacation planning and I’d like to share with you our experience. A local travel agent who is Belizean told us that we had to visit BANANA BANK LODGE if we wanted a “true Belizean jungle experience”. I am so glad that we took his advice because our experience at Banana Bank was truly the highlight of our trip. We hated to leave Banana Bank. I had a big lump in my throat when we left & our daughter Madeline (age 11) cried all afternoon. The transition to our next stop, Chaa Creek, was hard for her to make, and felt strange to all of us. Chaa Creek is a beautiful, very manicured place– but it doesn’t the have the heart, soul, or sense of discovery and adventure that Banana Bank Lodge offers in abundance! Madeleine said so many times….”I feel like I am home at Banana Bank!” We enjoyed the stories shared by guests at meal times & the great home style cooking. Everybody made us feel so welcome there. We loved the symphony of bird calls in the morning & the carpet of lightening bugs enchanted us every evening. We have so many stories and memories from our short stay at Banana Bank. Their horses are terrific & riding thorough the jungle and galloping through fields was definitely a wonderful experience. We are casual outdoorsy people, who enjoy a true ranch in the jungle experience and like to be close to wild life – Banana Bank was a perfect choice for us. I read the comments made by other travelers about Banana Bank & have to say that things have definitely changed since 1997. They now offer AC rooms, a large restaurant & a beautiful swimming pool that overlooks the jungle and the Belize river. It really is a fantastic place. My whole family loved it!
Julie Taylor, Orinda, California, February 2004

* We just spent 8 days in Belize and had a great time, with only a few glitches. People were very friendly, more so than I've experienced in Mexico or the Caribbean, and the country is beautiful. Here's a trip report. Travel Agents: We booked our trip through a travel company based in New York called Capricorn Leisure Corporation. We had a good experience with them and they seem to be able to get really good rates at some of the hotels, especially Jaguar Paw, where their rate seems to be about $90 for the off season, versus the $130 we were quoted through Magnum Belize. Their number is (800) 426-0544. Airlines: We had a very bad experience on TACA and probably would not fly them again. We flew out of San Francisco and were supposed to fly through San Salvador and then to Belize. To start with, the airline had not told us that we would need to be there three hours early or our seats would be given away. We got there 2 hours early and got seats, but not the ones we had reserved. Our flight was about an hour late, although we weren't sure why, since the weather was fine. When we got to San Salvador the connecting flight to Belize was still there and our luggage made it on, but they refused to let us board, saying theyhad closed the flight and did not want to reopen the paperwork. Since there weren't any other flights to Belize for the day, we had to fly to San Pedro Sula, and then finally to Belize, 8 hours late. Then, to add insult to injury, they lost my husband's luggage for 3 days. I would recommend that if anyone does fly TACA they take anything they value on as carryon, since they apparently often lose luggage. We rented a Suzuki Samurai from the BUDGET office, after a little delay. The Budget office apparently thought we were coming into the municipalairport (don't know why), and there was no one in the Budget office at noon when we arrived. It took about an hour and a half to get the car and the car was pretty beat up, but it got us where we were going. JAGUAR PAW was a lot of fun, especially the cave tubing. We also did some local hikes on our own and went to some of the ruins near the Guatamalan border. We had lunch at CLARISSA FALLS that day, which was very nice. They will plan other activities for guests as well, like horseback riding at Banana Bank Lodge. The rooms at JAGUAR PAW are spacious and quite nice. The food was good but not incredible. Good ingredients, but could be a little more creative in the menu. My one wish is that they would leave out the mayonaise in the shrimp and chicken salads, since that kind of contradicts the whole purpose of salad in my book. The drinks and local fruit, however, are wonderful. They grow pineapples on the property and if you order a pina colada they take the whole pineapple, hollow it out, and serve you the drink in the pineapple shell, with the extra pineapple on the side. I think they only do this when the pineapple are in season, but it was definitely the best drink I've every had. We thought the staff were great and very friendly, and clearly they have a good relationship with the owners, unlike many "luxury" establishments. The owners seem to treat the employees well, and I think that's reflected in the employees friendliness to guests. On the way back to the airport we stopped at the Belize Zoo, where I got a lot of excellent photos of the animals. The gift shop at the zoo has a nice selection of wooden bowls, and I bought a few as gifts. Luckily our trip back was much less eventful than the trip out, with only a slight delay. Vali Frank, Berkeley, California, July 1999

* From Dangriga I made my way to Belmopan by the Hummingbird Highway. This is a really nice drive and made me wish I was in a convertible instead of an Isuzu Trooper. I ended up making several stops along the way for pictures, checking out the old bridges (a railroad bridge), or just to relax. Only part of the road is paved, but I understand the unpaved section as you approach Belmopan should be completed by next year. In Belmopan, I stayed at the BULL FROG Inn, which thankfully offers air-conditioned rooms. This seems to be the best hotel in the capital. I got together with some people that night at Yoli's Chinese restaurant and lounge. Food was fine, and the open bar seemed a perfect place to begin celebrating the following day's "Battle of St. George" holiday. There were even fireworks. Next day, I began a leisurely drive down the Western Highway to Belize City. On the way, I stopped at the JAGUAR PAW LODGE. It's only a 35-40 minute drive off the highway but is definitely secluded. Once there I did not want to leave. I met one of the owners, Donna Young, who showed me some rooms and invited me to wander around. This is one unique place, with adopted "pets" all over. It's in the jungle, but the rooms are luxurious. There's a swimming pool, hiking, rafting, plenty to do, but unfortunately I was due in Belize City that night. My next trip back I am definitely coming here for a few nights. Pat Marshall, Houston, Texas, September 1998

* I just returned from my first trip to Belize. If you recall, I had contacted you prior to the trip to ask your opinion regarding the recent murder in Placencia. I can only tell you that I love the country! The people are wonderful and the country beautiful! I am a photographer and write for Marco Polo Magazine...specifically a photo column for them. I am so inspired from the trip...can't wait to return. We were hosted by the Belize Tourist Board. We stayed at BANANA BANK LODGE, CRYSTAL PARADISE, FIVE SISTERS LODGE, SERENITY RESORT and PARADISE RESORT. We went canoeing on the Macal River and tubing with IAN ANDERSON'S operation. We snorkeled off of Ambergris (I had wished there was time to dive...as that is what I really love to do) and visited Clarissa Falls, 1000-Foot Falls, did some hiking and saw Xunantunich. It was an amazing 4 1/2 days in the country! Now I know a little more of why you speak so highly about this part of the world. Carolyn Carr of Banana Bank Lodge is a very interesting and talented woman, but that is not to belittle any of the other Belizeans or American expats who we met...we even had the Manuel Esquivel's daughter on our trip! So, thanks for keeping us all informed. Karen Schulman, July 1998

* Our last stop, JAGUAR PAW LODGE, with its imposing main building reminiscent of Frank Lloyd Wright's Mayan houses in Los Angeles, has got to be the most unusual eco resort. We loved prowling the jungle paths, cave openings and soaking up the general ambiance of the place. A popular activity here is inner-tubing through several caves of the nearby Caves Branch River, which we somehow never got around to doing! But we did make it to the nearby Belize Zoo, which is first rate. Four of the resident canines of Jaguar Paw followed us everywhere, even camping out on our doorstep every night. We slept so well in our air conditioned room that we never made it up in time to observe the wild coati mother and her eight offspring arrive outside the dining room for a breakfast every morning. But we did enjoy the antics of Willy, the Youngs' pet coati, and Chica, the howler monkey, who has such a soft coat. Food in the gourmet restaurant is outstanding -- we especially enjoyed the seafood pasta -- and the general decor of the place is also outstanding. The main building sports a ceiling-high waterfall and a mural adapted from the famed Mayan murals at the Bonampak ruin in Chiapas, Mexico. The individually decorated rooms at Jaguar Paw were another pleasant surprise--we particularly enjoyed the Seashell, Parrot and Mayan rooms. Would we return? Most definitely. Gale Randall, Palo Alto, California, July, 1998

* My wife and I just returned from a wonderful week-long honeymoon in beautiful Belize. We landed in Belize on a Monday and were met at the airport by a driver from JAGUAR PAW, our first accommodation in Belize. On our way to the jungle lodge, we made a stop at the Belize Zoo. After the zoo, we got back on the Western Highway for a little while, and then turned left onto a long rocky road for a 7-mile drive into the jungle and to door of Jaguar Paw. Upon our arrival, our bags were taken to our room, which was nicely decorated with a Chinese theme. After settling in, we began to explore the lush surroundings. First, a short walk down the road we had come in on took us to the mouth of one of the smaller caves on the property and the Caves Branch River which flows through it. We then explored one of the many trails which leads out from the main resort complex. Bearing left on the trail, we came to the mouth of a large cave with the sound of rushing water coming from deep within it. Carefully picking our way down the rock, we entered the mouth of the cave and walked around where we had enough daylight to see. We had left the flashlight in the room, so we had to save the serious exploring for another day. After leaving the cave, we walked down another trail into the dense jungle. We didn't go too far, because we knew we would have plenty of walking in the days to come. So, we turned around and headed back to our room. On the way, we passed one of the owners of Jaguar Paw, Cy Young. He was letting their pet monkey, Chika, eat some foliage. As I was talking to Cy, my wife, Tricia, reached out to pet Chika. Much to her surprise, Chika jumped right on her arm and climbed right up to her head! So, I stuck out my arm and Chika jumped on me and began nibbling at my eyebrow. All three of us were laughing, but Chika must have decided that my eyebrow wasn't as good as the leaves and jumped back into a nearby bush. After showering (with hot water!), we changed for dinner. We were the only ones in the dining room and chose a table for two by the window where we could look out into the jungle as we ate. The food was very good and obviously prepared fresh (not just sitting in a warmer waiting for a guest to show up). Dinner prices ran between US$10 and $25. Before hitting the bed, we took a quick dip in the pool, which has two fountains, underwater benches to sit on, and is surrounded by banana trees. It was the perfect end to our first day in Belize. The next morning, we ate a good breakfast (US$5 to $12) served by the same waiter from the night before. Then we were off for our morning jungle walk, led by our more than able guide, Victor. Victor led us on a 5- or 6-mile walk, along pre-cut trails, up and down mountains, and even blazing our own trail for a short while. It was beautiful, and Victor pointed numerous animals, trees and plants during the course of the walk, making it educational as well. We arrived back at the lodge just in time for lunch (US$10 to $15). After a quick siesta, we met up with Victor again for another short walk through the jungle to the mouth of a cave where we would inner tube down the river through five caves. This was a great relaxing trip, especially after all of the walking we had done earlier in the day. Thankfully, we had brought an underwater camera, because we were thoroughly wet floating down the river. The total cost for the jungle walk and innertubing was US$70/person. After another delicious dinner, we hit the bed to rest up for the next day's adventure. We woke up Wednesday to begin our day trip to the Mayan ruins of Xunantunich and Cahal Pech. We were hooked up with our own personal guide for our tour of the ruins. This was very helpful, because we were able to gain a better perspective not only on the Mayan culture, but also about the excavation process itself. We then stopped for lunch at Clarissa Falls Restaurant and Hotel (not really a hotel, but a series of thatched roof cabanas). The food was good, fairly inexpensive (US$2 to $15), and the view and sounds of the small falls nearby was relaxing. I especially recommend the papaya juice with milk for a tasty, refreshing drink (almost like a milkshake!) After lunch, it was off to Cahal Pech. While not nearly as impressive as the larger structures of Xunantunich, we actually liked Cahal Pech better, because the buildings were more fully excavated, and you could get a much better feel for what daily life for the Mayans must have been like. We were the only visitors to the ruins at the time we were there, so we again had our own personal tour guide, who was also very friendly and informative. The normal cost for this trip, which includes lunch, is normally US$240 US. Thus the more people the lower the cost per person. But since we were the only ones at the resort, and thus the only ones going, Cy only charged us US$175. John Wroton, Chapel Hill, North Carolina, July 1998

* From Ambergris Caye we flew Belize City to tour the zoo and then on to JAGUAR PAW (near Belmopan) for lunch and a caving trip. Having read reviews in BELIZE FIRST we were expecting something on par with Maruba. Yes, it's an A/C building with nice decor, but that's the only thing. (We did not see the rooms.) Please remove ALL the stackable plastic chairs from both the dining room and the outdoor areas! They look tacky! The menu was uninspired, i.e. hamburger, cheeseburger, fish and chips. If this is what they are offering for US$1,000 for three or four days no wonder business is slow! Pat Nethercote, Nelson, British Columbia, Canada, July 1998

* On our honeymoon, my wife and I stayed at the JAGUAR PAW JUNGLE LODGE. The lodge is located in a beautiful jungle setting, near the Caves Branch River; to get there, go to the mile 37 signpost on the Western Highway, and turn onto a dirt road (although the lodge is only 7 miles from the Western Highway, it seems like 77 because it's slow-going over the dirt road!) From the moment we arrived, we knew that this was to be a special place. The Jaguar Paw's owners, Cy and Donna Young, greeted us personally at the front door of the fantastic main lodge. Soon after, the front desk manager, Alfredo, escorted us to our air-conditioned room (each room is decorated in a unique theme; we had the "Seashell Room", which was amazing.) The hotel consists of the main lodge, a gorgeous outdoor pool, and a handful of smaller buildings where the guest rooms are; the jungle is literally at your doorstep. Jaguar Paw's staff are extremely friendly and helpful. The food, ranging from Belizean-style rice and beans with stew chicken to fresh seafood to imported filet mignon, is great (a good thing, because it would be very difficult to "go out" for dinner). The lodge offers exciting day activities (all of which are charged extra to your bill), including nature hikes along miles of jungle trails with an expert local guide, exploration outings in the many caves surrounding the area, trips to the nearby Belize Zoo and Mayan ruins, and (our favorite) inner-tubing down the Caves Branch River THROUGH various caves! In spite of the fact that our stay coincided with the beginning of the rainy season, we thoroughly enjoyed the outdoors "Jaguar Paw" style. On our last night at the Jaguar Paw, Cy and Donna sent a bottle of champagne to our room, which we promptly shared with the other guests, with whom we had quickly become good friends. Our experience at the Jaguar Paw felt more like staying with old friends than staying in a hotel. I'll admit that the lodge is a bit on the expensive side (including meals and activities, we spent US$1,000 in 3 days.) However, it was completely worth it, and we have decided that if we ever visit Belize again, the Jaguar Paw will be on our list of stops. Jason R. Cryan, Raleigh, North Carolina, June 1997 * We stayed at the BANANA BANK LODGE (tel. /fax 501-8-12020) for three days with our children. The lodge is in a beautiful setting, and is breathtaking to see across the river, where you are pulled across in a boat. There is road access, though it is a little rough, and you really need a 4WD or front wheel drive vehicle to get across the ferry that doubles as a bridge. Banana Bank has a lot of land, and the lodge sits on a beautifully landscaped area that is probably about 10 acres. We stayed in a thatched-roof cabin that was roomy, although I did have a problem with the lights going out every night at 10 and not even a night light to see by. All the meals, which are simple, good and reasonably priced, are served in their restaurant where everyone sits together at one large table. We met a lot of interesting people this way and quite enjoyed it. The activities were wonderful, we canoed down the river and went horseback riding through the jungle which was an experience none of us will ever forget. The kids loved all the animals there -- Tika the jaguar, Festus the spider monkey, and Walter and Margaret the toucans. The kids felt that Banana Bank was one of the best places we visited on our trip because of all the wildlife. It could have been a little cleaner, and meals served a little more promptly, although that only mattered when we were trying to get out to see some ruins. There were a few problems with the hot water, but all in all it was an enjoyable stay. My kids would definitely go back any day, and I would too if they could do something about the lights, and keep the buildings a little cleaner inside. Elizabeth Everitt, Princeton, BC, Canada, January 1997

* We stayed a couple of nights at the BELMOPAN HOTEL. Very nice people, rooms were clean but somewhat worn around the edges. Then a couple of nights at the BULL FROG INN -- more reasonable and quite good food. Drove the Hummingbird Highway after dark -- never ever again! Richard L. Closson, Gordon Wisconsin, January 1997

* POOK'S HILL, P.O. Box 14, Belmopan, Belize, C.A.; tel 501-8-12017, fax 501-8-22948. US$90 double including breakfast, plus tax (no service charge). Includes breakfast. Dinner US$15 per person additional. Transfers from Belmopan are US$10 per person; from the international airport in Belize, US$30 per person; free pickup from Teakettle Village. Near the Tapir Mountain Reserve and Roaring River between San Ignacio and Belmopan, some 6 miles off the Western Highway, at mile 52 1/2 at Teakettle Village. New jungle lodge with eight rooms in six double cabañas, plus one family cabaña with two rooms plus bathroom (US$144 for a family), on 300 acres. Open since the first part of 1996, run by a couple who have been in this part of Belize for about 10 years -- Ray Snaddon, a South African, and his wife Vicki, originally from Trinidad (they appear to be very nice folks.) Beautiful setting on river. Cabanas have been built in traditional thatched style, nice but certainly not luxurious. Inexpensive mattresses. The four units on the lower grassy area are fairly large, the ones on the upper lawn are a bit smaller. Potable water from a spring. Hot water is heated in traditional way with cohune palm nuts. Generator provides some electricity, but most lighting is from kerosene lamps. Tubing on river, horseback riding, hiking, mountain biking, birding (more than 200 species recorded in this area.) Pleasant restaurant and bar/sitting area. Access is via a fairly rough limestone marl road, through lush jungle. After a heavy rain, a 4-wheel drive with good ground clearance would be desirable. The Snaddons also are raising green iguanas for release in the bush. Would I go back? Yes. Lan Sluder, BELIZE FIRST

Our next stop was IAN ANDERSON'S CAVES BRANCH ADVENTURES (www.cavesbranch.com). We took the bus to Belmopan, transferred to a bus down the Hummingbird Highway and, through pre-arrangement, Ian had someone meet us on the highway to drive us to the camp. Caves Branch was a real adventure and one of the highlights of the trip. It is designed for the affluent adventurer. Accommodations range from bunkhouses to basic cabanas with private facilities. All the accommodations are pretty rustic. Dinners (US$16) were family style buffet and among the best food we had in Belize. The cave trips are phenomenal and highly recommended. We did the tube trip: 4.5 hours underground among amazing formations and Mayan artifacts. Others who did the crystal cave tour raved about it as well. Cost is US$55 with pick-up and drop off at Eva's, more if you are staying at Caves Branch unless you point out to Ian how much cheaper it is as a day trip from San Ignacio. (Huh?) Due to hot weather, extremely crowded pre-Christmas buses, and a sick wife, we splurged and hired a taxi to take us to Dangriga (US$75). This really was the most beautiful drive of the trip. Unfortunately my wife could not enjoy it. Mark Vigder, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada, December 1998

* We left Miami on December 15. TACA was two hours late, so our original plan to drive through Burrell Boom was skewered. We drove straight through to Belmopan and stayed two nights at the BULL FROG INN. Nothing much in Belmopan, but it did make a good base to visit the zoo, Guanacaste, drive down the Hummingbird Highway (in pretty good condition, for the most part) to St. Herman's Cave, the Blue Hole, and Five Blues Lake. We would not stay in Belmopan again--although it was cool enough not to need the A/C, the traffic noise on Ring Road and in the parking lot made it impossible to sleep with the windows open. The restaurant at Bull Frog was adequate, but nothing special. We then drove on to San Ignacio. Stayed at WINDY HILL COTTAGES, which was pleasant enough, but the restaurant only serves one entree for dinner, which comes at a price of US$17.50. This is a high price for a dinner where you can't even select your own entree. We found the food at Eva's, Martha's, and the San Ignacio Hotel to be fresh and good. We will probably stay at San Ignacio Hotel when we return next year. Very attractive setting and the service was very nice. Drove up to Mountain Pine Ridge. The 9 miles from Georgeville to the gate were pretty rough, but once in the park itself the roads were pretty good. Stopped for lunch at BLANCANEAUX LODGE. What a beautiful spot! Food and service were both outstanding. We would like to stay here for a couple nights on our next trip. Allison Johnson, Gainesville, Florida December 1997

* We stayed at the BANANA BANK LODGE (tel. /fax 501-8-12020) for three days with our children. The lodge is in a beautiful setting, and is breathtaking to see across the river, where you are pulled across in a boat. There is road access, though it is a little rough, and you really need a 4WD or front wheel drive vehicle to get across the ferry that doubles as a bridge. Banana Bank has a lot of land, and the lodge sits on a beautifully landscaped area that is probably about 10 acres. We stayed in a thatched-roof cabin that was roomy, although I did have a problem with the lights going out every night at 10 and not even a night light to see by. All the meals, which are simple, good and reasonably priced, are served in their restaurant where everyone sits together at one large table. We met a lot of interesting people this way and quite enjoyed it. The activities were wonderful, we canoed down the river and went horseback riding through the jungle which was an experience none of us will ever forget. The kids loved all the animals there -- Tika the jaguar, Festus the spider monkey, and Walter and Margaret the toucans. The kids felt that Banana Bank was one of the best places we visited on our trip because of all the wildlife. It could have been a little cleaner, and meals served a little more promptly, although that only mattered when we were trying to get out to see some ruins. There were a few problems with the hot water, but all in all it was an enjoyable stay. My kids would definitely go back any day, and I would too if they could do something about the lights, and keep the buildings a little cleaner inside. Elizabeth Everitt, Princeton, BC, Canada, January 1997