Belize District Reader Updates

Belize District

* We have benefited from a great deal of information gleaned from your books and website, and wanted to pass on some feedback from our recent trip to Belize. We found that the hospitality, accommodations and food at BIRD'S EYE VIEW LODGE in Crooked Tree really exceeded all of our expectations. The staff was exceptionally warm and friendly, and the food was interesting, tasty, and reasonably priced. We enjoyed such items as scrambled eggs served with seasoned chayote squash, and jicama-beet salad, as well as homemade breads, with papaya and cashew fruit jams. Their location right on the lagoon is unsurpassed, and we thoroughly enjoyed everything about our stay. Linda Sanders, April 2004

* We had a fantastic meal at the MAYAN WELLS which is between Belize City and Orange Walk. The prop, Carl Simons, is a former Texan electrical engineer (lots of that in Belize) who has built a "B&B." Has a cute howler monkey that jumps on your shoulder and hugs your neck...all this after lunch of course. Pretty interesting artifacts in his restaurant. George Self, Asheville, North Carolina

* I recently returned from a three week trip to Belize, and given that I gathered so much information from others on the Net I wanted to let others benefit from my experience. I am providing just a short summary here, but if you need to know any more info, please email and I will be happy to provide it. All prices quoted below are US$ and do not include taxes/service charges/tips. The trip was a family adventure involving my wife and me, our son (age 11) and daughter (age 9). The trip was designed as an adventure/eco-tour being done on a reasonably tight budget, made all the tighter by the collapse of the Canadian dollar shortly after I bought the non-refundable airline tickets. Belize is not a cheap country for travelling. We landed at Belize International on the afternoon of December 9th and not wishing to spend any time in Belize city we had made arrangements with the JUNGLE DRIFT LODGE (www.belizemall.com/jungled/) to pick us up at the airport and take us to their lodge at Bermudian Landing in the middle of the Community Baboon Sanctuary. Cost of a one way transfer is US$40 for up to four people. This was a wonderful place to start the holiday and acclimatize ourselves to Belize. The CBS is a community sponsored initiative to preserve the habitat of the black howler monkeys, locally known as baboons. About 50 of the local landowners, mostly subsistence farmers, have signed voluntary pledges to maintain their farms in such a way that the howler monkeys can continue to thrive. We enjoyed the Jungle Drift Lodge immensely. The lodge was recently bought by the owner of Spanish Lookout Caye and is being managed by his son Eduardo. It is in a jungle setting overlooking the Belize River with extensive trails behind the lodge. During our stay there was numerous wildlife in the area including iguanas, bats, tarantulas and many birds. And of course there were the monkeys, including a troop right outside our window that started up at 4 a.m. We had a wonderful two-story cabana with private facilities (US$60). There are cheaper cabins with shared facilities. The food is available on site prepared with care by Ishmael. It is basic Belizean fare, with lots of rice, beans, and tortillas, but was well prepared and enjoyed by us (about US$8 for dinner). Camille Young is the guide, and he is excellent taking great pride in his work. He pointed out numerous iguanas, monkeys, and birds on the canoe trip. He did try to pad his pocket by spinning cockamamie stories to get us to "lend" him money, but these were more amusing than threatening. In general, I did tip the guides we used as I found the service I got from them excellent. I would certainly recommend the Jungle Drift Lodge to anyone who wants a jungle experience at a reasonable price close to Belize City. Mark Vigder, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

* I would like to give my highest recommendation to JUNGLE DRIFT LODGE in the Community Baboon Sanctuary. What a wonderful place! John and Madeline were great hosts and fabulous cooks. Where else in Belize can you get freshwater lobster, served with fetuccine alfredo (homemade sauce), ricotta chicken with a wonderfully fresh salad and mashed potatoes and carrots. Breakfast and lunch left nothing to be desired either. I am ready just to go back for the food and did I mention three meals a day ran US$15 per person? The tours they offered were just as spectacular as the dining was. Fallet Young, the manager of the sanctuary, led all of our tours and had eagle eyes when it came to spotting wildlife. He has amazing amounts information stored away, and you would never get bored talking to him. The lodge has a great spot on a hill overlooking the Belize River. Warm afternoons were spent swinging in our hammock on our deck that looked out over the river or splashing in the warm water itself with Zee Mutt (it must be said with a German accent to pronounce it correctly) the resident dog. John and Madeline really know how to make guests feel at home and are very helpful when it comes to questions about the country. Oh, I almost forgot the most important thing: location, location , location. Not only do they have a prime spot on the river but being in the Baboon Sanctuary almost guarantees you a sighting of the monkeys and I can definitely guarantee you will hear the monkeys. To anyone who has never heard the ROAR of a howler monkey you are in for a treat. John and Madeline told us that they have had guests who refused to come out of their rooms at night because they were terrified that a jaguar was waiting out there for them. I even have to confess that I knew that loud roaring around us was the monkeys, but it made no difference I still almost woke my husband to walk with me to the bathroom. Accommodations are simple cabañas that are kept spotless. Most of the cabañas share modern bathroom facilities (also spotless) these will run you about US$20-$25 a night. The one exception is the "luxury cabaña, " a lovely two story unit with private bath and beautiful view of the river and still only US$50 a night. Lisa & Dave Hubbard, Mishawaka, Indiana

* SAM TILLET'S RESORT, Crooked Tree. Fantastic experience. Cheap clean rooms and great food! And Sam is a charismatic powerhouse of bird knowledge. He knows how to talk care of his guests and teaches them a ton about local wildlife. He organizes morning, afternoon, and night hikes as freebies in between the major trips to the lagoon, or anywhere you want. Tikal even. Fabulous. An excellent first or last night choice, as it's down the road from the Belize airport. Great way to avoid Belize City altogether. Paige Eagle, Takoma Park, Maryland, October 1997

* EDITOR'S NOTE: Pretty See Ranch reviewed below closed in mid-1997 -- word is that it may eventually reopen under new management.

* North of the Altun Ha turnoff, just past the village of Maskall on the old Northern Highway is a new resort called the PRETTY SEE JUNGLE RANCH, Mile 39, Old Northern Highway, Maskall Village, Belize, C.A., tel. in Belize 501-3-12005. A former macadamia nut plantation, this ranch is probably the best unknown resort in Belize. They started operations around July '96, but what a place! I had just left the ruins at Altun Ha when I saw the first sign for this resort and I thought: "Why not? I came to see Belize." When I arrived I was met by Natalie, a Belizean from nearby Maskall. I had originally intended to only look the resort over as I had not heard of it before, but Natalie soon sold me on Pretty See. Natalie is a delightful person who speaks endless accolades about her boss Miss Pamela, the owner of the resort. In fact, probably the thing that struck me the most about Pretty See is how highly all of her staff speaks about Miss Pamela (when was the last time you spoke highly of YOUR boss?). Natalie showed me the clubhouse, and the cabins, and introduced me to Betty, a transported Bostonian, who has been in Belize for over 20 years. Betty also speaks very highly of Miss Pamela. The ranch sits on 1, 300 hundred acres of pasture, ponds, river front, and jungle -- truly beautiful. I hiked this place for hours and was never bored, Lost perhaps, but not bored. Bird life is abundant, especially at daybreak and dusk. I saw keel-billed toucans, songbirds, parrots, and wading birds along with Morelet's crocodiles (relax, they only grow to about 5 feet) at the pond about 100 yards from my cabin. Animal life is abundant, but elusive. The exceptions being the currasows that frequent the thatched clubhouse, and Pamela's friendly margay, Chicquita. The currasows will eat from your hand, and the margay loves to be petted. The first structure you'll see is the clubhouse. A huge thatched-roofed open building with beautiful wood floors and quite impressive from an engineering standpoint. I don't think I've seen a larger structure with a thatched roof. The area surrounding the clubhouse and the few cabins is wide open and reminded me of an African savannah more than a Belizean rain forest. The clubhouse includes the bar, and a restaurant run by the best chef in Belize. Chef Shawn is a also a transplanted Bostonian (Betty's son) and was one of the reasons I stayed for two days (instead of the usual one day I spent at every other resort). The cabins are also beautiful. Octagon shaped about 30 feet across, with a thatched roof, wood floors, refrigerator and CD player. They sleep four comfortably and go for US$95 a night. My first meal there (I arrived during the lunch buffet) was excellent and all-you-can eat. I was in heaven. I'll explain: I had spent most of my trip "exploring" -- going where few people would choose to go, never mind eat. The only disappointment I experienced in Belize is the cuisine. It is basic: rice beans, onions, peppers, and a token piece of chicken or fish. I am allergic to onions and peppers, and I don't like beans. In brief, I had been starving, surviving on potato chips I'd buy when I stopped for gas. When I saw the buffet -- chicken, fruit, ribs, salad -- I felt it was a sign. That night, Shawn prepared an incredible dinner: salad with native fruit, lobster fettucine served on a banana leaf with flower garnish, and caramel covered fried ice cream. In the middle of a jungle!! The following morning, Shawn asked me what I wanted for breakfast. I said, "Surprise me." He did -- a lobster omelette. All inclusive meals are US$35 per day and worth going to Belize for! The first evening I was there I met Miss Pamela, an outstanding woman who built this resort from scratch. I immediately understood why her staff regards her so highly. Originally from Oregon, Pamela lived in the village of Maskall for over a year before starting the Pretty See Ranch. She speaks as highly of the villagers as they of her. Miss Pamela is one of the most interesting people I've ever met and an outstanding hostess. I arrived unannounced on Saturday, and was the only guest that Sunday. None the less, Pamela made sure I had a great stay and even arranged for a boat ride out to Caye Caulker for some diving. Pamela has started construction of a beach house on Caye Caulker which will be available for guests' use. Tom Columbano, Miami Beach, February 1997