Answers to Your Questions about Belize


(Last updated December 2004)

Note:  It is impossible for use to go back and update each and every detail of each question.  Some information here may be out of date.


BY LAN “THE-BELIZE-ANSWER-MAN” SLUDER

These are some of the questions posed to Lan Sluder from visitors to the BELIZE FIRST Web edition. Lan Sluder, author or co-author of five books and many newspaper and magazine articles on Belize and editor and publisher of BELIZE FIRST, attempts to provide answers to any reasonable question about Belize, usually within 24 to 48 hours. E-mail your question, with your full name and city of residence, to Lan at bzefirst@aol.com.

Answers to questions of general interest are posted here, and by sending the question to Lan you are granting the right for your question and your name (but not your e-mail or physical address) to be published.

For ease of review, questions and answers are listed in these categories:

Getting to Belize


Traveling Around Belize


Driving to Belize

Cruise Ships

Weather in Belize

Tours


Places to Stay


Diving Belize


Money and Banking in Belize


Living in Belize

Working/Investing in Belize


Sports/Adventure


Miscellaneous


Post-September 11 Issues




GETTING TO BELIZE

Q: Do you have any recommendations for budget travel agents for flying into Belize. Trying for the lowest price, no frills.

Phil Johns


A: The cheapest way to get to Belize often is not to fly to Belize but to fly to Cancun (or sometimes Cozumel) and then bus from there. There are many charter flights into Cancun from the U.S., Canada and even Europe, often at fares that are one-third to one-half what they are into Belize. From Cancun or Playa del Carmen, you can take a bus to Chetumal (four to six hours and US$12-$20 or so for a nice, comfortable reserved seat) and there transfer to a Belize bus into Corozal Town or Belize City. Or you can fly (US$37) or water taxi (US$20) from Corozal Town to San Pedro.

If you want to fly directly in to the international airport at Ladyville (Belize City), some of the on-line travel agents/consolidators offer fares that are less than those available directly from American, US Air, Delta, TACA or Continental. However, there is no one service that is always cheapest -- you have to check with several to see which has the best deal on the dates you want to go. It's also a good idea to check the regular fares on Expedia.com, Orbitz.com and Travelocity.com, or directly with the airlines' Web sites, as on a given date these could be as cheap or cheaper than a "consolidator" fare.

A number of web sites claim to find the lowest fares for you. Besides Expedia.com, Orbitz.com and Travelocity.com and similar, there are sites like lowestfares.com, hotfares.com, cheaptickets.com and cheapofares.com. Some sites such as supersearch.travelzoo.com claim to seek out and compare fares from a variety of sites. Another option is the auction sites, such as www.skyauction.com and Priceline.com.

You may want to talk to a Belize specialist such as Barbara Kasak, Barb's Belize, El Paso, TX, www.barbsbelize.com, 888-321-2272 or Katie Valk in Belize City (www.belize-trips.com). They may be able to save you money simply because they are on top of all the latest deals, plus they know Belize very well.


Happy travels!

--Lan


Q. Whom or where do I contact to get the bus schedules from Cancun to
Chetumal & then to Corozal Town or Casablanca by the Sea?


A. ADO (Autobuses de Oriente) is the major carrier in this area. They have a Web site, but last time I checked the schedules on-line were not complete. I know ADO GL (premier) has two buses a day from Cancun to Chetumal, and the regular ADO has frequent departures from Playa del Carmen to Chetumal. ADO and Riviera provide frequent service from the Cancun airport to Playa. It's a little over 4 hours to Chetumal from Playa, and around US$14, where you can transfer to a Novelo bus (US$2 to Corozal Town.) From Cancun on ADO to Chetumal the price is about US$20. There is no bus service to Consejo where Casablanca is located, but you can take a taxi.

--Lan


Q. Is it true you go through duty-free at the international airport in Belize before you go through customs? If that is true is that the best place to buy a few items?

Dana

A. At one time there was a duty-free shop in the arrival area. However, the last few times I was through the international airport, most recently a few weeks ago, there was no duty-free in the arrival area. The only duty-free shops now are in the departure lounge areas. You may want to buy duty-free at your departure airport in the U.S. or wherever you are leaving from.

--Lan



Q: Where might I look/arrange travel from the airport
at Chetumal down to Belize so I can get to Ambergris Caye?
You mentioned taking a taxi to the border and then a bus,
do I just show up or should I arrange something?



harmerr

A: When you get to the airport in Chetumal, you will be able to find a taxi to the border. Probably around US$5 or so. The taxi will drop you at the Mexican side. You will have to go through Mexican immigration/customs and then through Belize immigration and customs on the other side of the river. The cheapest thing to do is to get on the Belize bus (it will be Novelo's, probably) and ride across the river. The bus will stop at the Belize office and wait for you and other passengers and then go on into Corozal. However, if you are willing to pay around US$20 you can get a taxi on the Belize border, which will take you to the Corozal airstrip. Or you could take a bus on to Belize City and then take a water taxi to Caye Caulker.


--Lan



Q. We are considering renting a car in Cancun and traveling down and into Belize. I have found two rental car companies -- Europcar is one -- that would rent cars and allow them to cross the border. The considerably lesser of the two has an economy car for about $250 USD per week with unlimited miles.

In the voyage from Cancun I would like my wife to see Tulum and any other sites you feel would be "not-to-missers". We just do not have enough experience to make a good decision on this leg of the journey. It has been 20 years since I was in the Yucatan.

Once into Belize we are thinking of going to Ambergris Caye for a few days. We would like to stay in a clean, moderately priced facility and I would do a couple days of diving. From AC we are thinking of traveling to Caulker Caye for another few days. From Caulker to one of the other atolls or out-islands for a day and then in the mainland. We would like to travel south and to some of the Mayan ruins.

R. Penney

A. I think you will be amazed at the changes that have taken place in the Yucatan, especially the Cancun-Tulum corridor. There have been huge investments by U.S. , Mexican and European companies, with many large hotels, condos, timeshares, and entertainment complexes all along the coast, plus there is now a major highway. As you go farther south, things are less commercialized, and there are still some remote, quiet villages. Cozumel has changed, but not as much as many of the coastal areas.

Do not hurry too fast to Ambergris Caye. Northern Belize is pleasant, though there is not that much to see, but it is not at all touristy. I especially like the Corozal Town area, the Shipstern/Sarteneja peninsula and the Lamanai area.

On Ambergris, in the moderate category, among others I recommend Mayan Princess (if you can get a deal), The Tides, Corona del mar, and as a step up, but still a good value, Banana Beach. On Caulker, you cannot do better than Treetops --- US$40 or less a night, spotless, delightful hosts -- though Anchorage, Tom's, Shirley's, Chocolate's, Seaside Cabanas and Trends Beachfront among others are all good.

For Maya sites, I believe the three tops ones in Belize are Caracol, Lamanai and Xunantunich, in that order. Some of the cave sites are also fascinating. Of course, Tikal in Guatemala (only 1 1/2 hours from western Belize) is far and away the most dramatic of all the Maya sites in the region.

As to renting in Cancun and driving or going by bus to Belize from Cancun and renting there, it sounds to me that the cost is about a wash, or that it would be a little cheaper to rent in Belize, given the Belize US$15 a day supplement plus the cost of Belize insurance you'll have to buy at the border plus any storage cost for the car while you're on the cayes plus the fact you'd be paying for the car the days you are on the cayes and unable to use it. So it comes down to whether the convenience of having a car in Mexico would be worth it to you.

Also, I'd ask what will happen if the Mexican car breaks down in Belize -- will they come get it, pay for repairs, or what? Most Belize car renters, at least the larger ones, will send out a mechanic to repair or replace the car. You will find that Belize roads, other than the Northern, Western, Hummingbird and part of the Southern highways, are pretty bad and do a number on a car. It's rare to travel in Belize for a week or two without having at least one flat tire, for example, or to have some other more serious mechanical problem due to rough roads.

The reason for high rental rates in Belize is two-fold: one, the wear and tear on the vehicles, but more importantly the 75% or so import duty/taxes on cars. As to the high cost of flying into Belize City, that has long been something tourism operators in Belize have griped about, but the economics are that mass tourism destinations such as Cancun and Cozumel get the cheap air service whereas niche destinations get less service and higher prices.

-Good luck.

--Lan



Q. We are planning on going to Belize Aril 5th - April 15th. I thought we
would fly to Cancun, stay a few days and then take the buses to Belize.
We have never been to Belize before, but there are SO many hotels and
attractions to choose from, it's overwhelming. What I would like to do
is decide where we will stay and what we will see once we arrive in
Belize, possibly securing a place to stay for only the night we arrive
in Belize, as it may be late at night. Do you think there will be a
problem finding an available place to stay or getting in to see some of
the attractions? I just don't want to get there and have everything be
all booked up. I don't know how crowded it is there and don't want to
be caught without any place to stay. On a side note, what we would
really like to do is fly fish the flats, but not the expensive tour
group way. Would you think we could just find cheaper guides once we
arrive there?

Thanks! Your website is fabulous!!

Amy Bona


A. As you are arriving after Easter, there should be no problem in finding a place to stay without reservations. Some places could be fully booked on a given night, but you can find another.

In a particular area, good fishing guides pretty much charge about the same thing. For example, around Ambergris Caye you're going to pay US$200-$250 a day for guide (for two people) with a boat, tackle, ice. You can probably find someone to take you out for a few dollars less, but you get what you pay for. Once you get to wherever you are going, you can ask around and see which guides are available and find someone you like.

--Lan




Q: Would you know the best flight route to get to Ambergris Caye from
Spokane WA?


The gateways to Belize are: DFW (American), Houston (Continental and TACA), Charlotte (US Air), Newark (Continental, weekly), Atlanta (Delta, weekly) and Miami (American and TACA -- TACA via San Pedro Sula, Honduras). So, whatever airlines from Spokane are best for you to those gateways would be the way to go. From Belize International, you take Maya Island or Tropic Air for the 20-minute hop to San Pedro. You can also take a taxi (US$20) to the Municipal airport and fly either airline to San Pedro for about one-half the cost from International.

--Lan


Q: I understand that liability insurance is available when entering Belize from Mexico. Is 'full coverage' insurance also available (coverage for theft, accident repair, medical) and insurance for RVs?


Jim Rennak

A: You should be able to get full insurance at the border, though extras probably will be pretty expensive. I think you can get an on-line quote for various types of vehicle insurance from F&G Insurance in Belize City (www.fandginsurance.com) though I don't know specifically what they offer for RVs.

TRAVELING AROUND BELIZE

Q. I am planning a trip down to Belize and my girlfriend an I have a question. Seeing as how Belize is a former British colony, do you drive on the American side of the road or the British side of the road? Many of the Islands drive American cars but in the British side of the road. I went to the AAA web site but to no avail.

William Devine



A. In Belize you drive on the right. Signage is American-style also, e.g. distances in miles rather than kilometers.

--Lan

 

Q. How do I get to San Pedro (Ambergris Caye) after I get to Belize's International Airport?

Mogo Blake

A. Getting to San Pedro is easy as lime pie, but it does require at least one stop along the way. There is no international air service direct to San Pedro’s little 3,200 foot airstrip. Continental, US Air, Delta, American and TACA fly nonstop into the International Airport at Ladyville just north of Belize City from five or six U.S. gateways: Houston, DFW, Miami, Charlotte, Atlanta and Newark.

From Belize City: You can either fly or take a boat to San Pedro. It’s a 20-minute flight; the boat trip takes about 75 minutes. Two Belize airlines, Maya Island Air and Tropic Air, each have about one flight per hour every day to San Pedro, starting at around 7:30 a.m. and ending at 5:30 p.m. In peak visitor season, sometimes additional flights are added to accommodate demand. Flights originate from both the International Airport in Ladyville about 9 miles north of Belize City, where your international flight arrives, and Municipal Airport, a small airstrip in Belize City. In many cases the same Maya Island and Tropic flight picks up passengers at both airports, making the short hop between the two in a few minutes.
Should you fly to San Pedro from International or Municipal? Depends on whether you’d rather save time or money. It’s easier just to fly into International and walk over to the domestic terminal and catch your connecting puddle jumper. But you’ll save money, especially if traveling in a party of several people, by flying from Municipal. Adult and child one-way fares on both Maya Island and Tropic are approximately US$49 from International; from Municipal, adult one-way is US$27. Round-trip fares are twice one-way. Rarely are there any bargain fares or discounts for advance booking.

Transferring between the airports requires a 25-minute taxi ride. A taxi from International to Municipal is US$20 for up to five passengers. A tip isn’t necessary unless the driver carries a lot of your luggage, in which case add a couple of bucks. Taxis have green license tags. They are plentiful and await passengers just outside the main lobby

A party of four adults pays almost US$400 round-trip to San Pedro via International, and around US$250 round-trip from Municipal, even including the taxi transfers.

Do you need to make reservations for Maya Island or Tropic flights in advance? Off-season, it’s not really necessary, though having a reservation won’t hurt. In-season, a reservation might save a wait. Most hotels on Ambergris Caye will arrange for your air travel to the island at the time you make your hotel reservations, and there’s usually no extra cost to you. The hotel gets a small commission from the airline.

You also can book direct with the airlines by telephone or over the Internet. Here’s contact information:

Maya Island Air: 800-225-6732 or 501-226-3838, fax 226-2192; e-mail mayair@btl.net or miaspr@btl.net; schedules, fares and reservations at www.mayaairways.com.

Tropic Air: 800-422-3435 or 501-226-2012; e-mail tropicair@btl.net; schedules, fares and reservations at www.tropicair.com.

Another option is to take a water taxi or ferry from Belize City to San Pedro. The trip, mostly on fast open boats with twin outboard engine seating 20 or 25 people takes about 75 minutes. On a sunny, calm day, it’s a great introduction to Belize; on a rainy, windy day, the trip can be wet and rough.

Most boats belong to the Caye Caulker Water Taxi Association (tel. 501-223-1969). These leave from the Marine Terminal in Belize City at 10 N. Front Street near the Swing Bridge. The Marine Terminal (tel. 501-23-1969, e-mail bmtm@btl.net) has a waiting area and two small museums to visit while you wait. Boats to San Pedro leave at 8 am, 9 am , 10:30 am, Noon, 1:30 pm, 3 pm and 4:30 pm. Adult fares are US$15 one-way to Ambergris Caye. Children 5 to 10 go at half price; under 5 free. You disembark at Sharks pier in the middle of town. Fares just to Caye Caulker (45 minutes) are US$10. You can make reservations, but boarding is likely to be first-come, first-served. A cab to downtown Belize City from the International Airport is about 25 minutes and US$20 for up to four or five people.

Keep traveling!

--Lan


Q. In a few attempts to reserve a rental car in Belize City this coming July, it appears that the rental companies are closed during that time. Do you have any advice on how to get a rental at the airport? Is it better just to take a bus (to Corozal Town)?

Brian and Darlynn

A. The rental car companies in Belize City are NOT closed in July. They are open year round at the international airport. Some of the dozen or so rental places at the airport do close on Sundays, but in most cases their Belize City offices are open that day and they can arrange to have a driver meet you at the airport and bring you to their in-town office to do the paperwork. If you want to take a bus to Corozal, you can walk, hitch or possibly get a taxi (drivers prefer the bigger fares into Belize City) the 2 miles or so out to the Northern Highway and catch a bus there going north to Corozal/Chetumal.

--Lan

Q. Hi, my wife and I are arriving at the international airport at 1:30.  we would like to catch a bus to Tikal spend the night and next day there then get over to San Pedro. Wwhat
is the best and cheapest way to do that? and any idea's on what hotel to stay at in tikal? we are on a pretty tight budget.

David


>>

A. With arrival at 1:30, assuming your plane is on time, it's possible to get to Tikal that day, but it won't be easy and you will be traveling partly after dark (not usually a good idea in Guatemala). You will have to take a taxi (US$20) into town to the Novelo's termimal or else hike a mile out to the Northern Highway and take a bus (around US$1) into town, then take a Novelo's bus to Benque Viejo (US$3 and about 3 hours), then cross the border and catch a Guat chicken bus to Flores, or be dropped near El Remate and either stay there or change to a bus to Tikal.

Personally, I think I would go to San Pedro first. Then you can come back to Belize City early one morning and either take the Linea Dorada "luxury bus" (US$15 to $20) to Flores, or do the regular bus. You can also fly to Flores. Tikal Jets has inexpensive flights on Mondays and Fridays. Maya Island and Tropic fly daily but at higher cost.

--Lan


Q. Despite many searches in guide books and on the net, I
was unable to figure out an approximate cost of flying one way between
Belize and Guatemala city and what are the schedules.




A. Tikal Jets now offers inexpensive flights on Mondays and Fridays -- about US$70.  The only other airline that offers that service is TACA, and it involves a change of planes in San Salvador.

There is daily "deluxe" bus service between Belize City and Guatemala City, with a stop in Flores, on Linea Dorado. I believe the fare is US$50. Regular bus service would be much less. Linea Dorado has a Web site.

--Lan



Q. my brother, friend and i will be going to belize in early may, staying at ambergris caye for several days and then plan to go to belize city to head toward tikal and western belize for several days (one night in tikal and one in western belize). here are the questions regarding transportation for this side trip - 1)is it best to rent a car in belize city and plan to drive to tikal? the travel guides say that driving rental cars into guatemala may not be allowed by some car rental agencies, 2) is it better to take a bus to western belize and then transfer to a tikal bus?, or 3) best to rent a car in belize city, drive it to the border (perhaps leaving it at a lodge where we would spend a night after the tikal trip), and then bus to tikal and back? any thoughts on the pros and cons of these ideas would be helpful. we do want to spend a night and day in western belize looking at rain forest-related things (we are all biologists by trade or interest) and perhaps seeing some of the mayan ruins in western belize as well. thankx

Swampjrd@aol.com

A. The easiest way to get to Tikal (other than to fly, which is pretty expensive, but both Maya Island Air and Tropic Air in Belize, plus a couple of Guatemalan airlines, do fly from Belize City to Flores) is to take the Linea Dorada "luxury" bus which runs daily from the Marine Terminal in Belize City, believe still at 10 a.m. ,to Flores. Cost is US$25. The bus waits while you go through border formalities. From Flores you'll have to take a van or bus to Tikal park. Linea Dorada has a Web site with details -- www.lineadorada.com.

You could also take a regular bus (Novelo's) to the border, around US$3, then take a chicken bus (a few dollars) to near El Remate or Flores. Or arrange with a taxi or shuttle van in Guatemala to take you to Tikal.

Most car rental agencies don't permit their vehicles to go into Guatemala. Crystal in Belize City does, and I think Thrifty in Belize City still does as well. Also two rental places in San Ignacio, Safe and Western, do. Whether you can get Guatemala insurance at the Belize-Guatemala border is problematical, however. Personally I would recommend not driving in Guatemala.

In western Belize, you might look at duPlooy's Lodge -- the late owner, Ken duPlooy, spent many years collecting plants and trees from all over Central America and planting them at the "Belize Botanical Gardens" on the grounds of duPlooys. (His wife, Judy, still runs the place.)

--Lan

Q: We will be visiting San Pedro island this December. We are a family of 4
who want to reduce the cost of a very expensive week vacation by taking a
ferry. I've looked and asked but, want someone with knowledge to provide an
opinion. We arrive at the interntional airport at 425PM if all goes well.
From what I understand all transportation to the islands ends around 5pm we reserved a place starting that night at Coral Bay Villas can we even make it there that night? Our departure is for 1025 AM can we expect to leave from the island in time to catch the morning flight? Thanks for any information that may help. This is our first trip there.

Alexandra Jaffe
Long Beach


A: You will not be able to make the water taxi/ferry going to San Pedro. I advise you to either to pay the extra money and fly from International, or, if you arrive early and get through customs quickly (very unlikely) to take a taxi to the Municipal Airport (US$20) and fly from there. Fares from Municipal are approximately one-half those from International, and Maya Island and Tropic offer children's fares from Municipal. In both cases the last flight is around 5:30 p.m., so you might make it. In high season, sometimes additional later flights are added to accommodate tourists coming in late in the afternoon. If all else fails, just spend the night in Belize City -- the Radisson Fort George has two swimming pools and cable TV and is a favorite of my kids.

Returning, with luck you might be able to make your flight, though I doubt it. . You are supposed to be at the airport at least 2 hours in advance. You would probably be better off flying back as well.

--Lan


Q. I took the bus from Placencia to Dangriga. It went through a
beautiful area that was very green and had sailboats on a river. I would
love to go back there but have no idea where that was. Any idea?
Elfi Gilford


A. By road from Placencia to Dangriga you first go north about 15 miles along the peninsula, with the unpaved road fairly close to the sea and lagoon, though views are often obscured by mangroves or other trees, and then west, inland, about 10 miles to the Southern Highway. You then go north (the Southern Highway is now paved in this area) about 25 miles on the Southern Highway to the intersection with the Stann Creek District Highway. There are a number of small creeks and rivers that cross the road. You turn east and go about 6 miles into Dangriga. While at various points on this route you see the Caribbean or Placencia lagoon or small rivers, and some areas are quite lush and green (depending on the time of year and the amount of dust) I'm afraid I can't really place the area you describe.

--Lan

 

Q: In celebration of our twentieth wedding anniversary and my birthday, my wife and I have created a preliminary itinerary for a tour of northern Belize. What has us hung up is learning how to safely get from one locale to another. We understand that you could be most helpful in telling us how to travel from:
a) Belize City to Lamanai (and the Lamanai Outpost Lodge);

b) Lamanai to Pooks Hill Reserve (and the Pooks Hill Lodge);

c) Pooks Hill to Tikal National Park (and the Tikal Inn);

d) Tikal to Belize City in order to fly to Ambergris Caye.

Any insights you could provide would be greatly appreciated.

Vic Reichman


A: Personally for the Belize mainland part of your trip I'd rent a car and drive. You will see a lot and probably will strike out on your own and discover things you otherwise wouldn't have seen. I've driven all over Belize for the last 10 years, often with my family, including to Lamanai Outpost and Pook's Hill, and have never had any trouble at all other than an occasional flat tire.
But if you don't want to drive, you can fly (charter) to Lamanai Outpost, or go by car to Orange Walk and take a boat up the New River. The lodge routinely arranges transportation for its guests. The boat is especially nice.

For getting to Pook's Hill, assuming you don't drive, you can have Lamanai get to back to Belize City and then have Pook's Hill meet you and take you to the lodge (you could even take a taxi). Pook's Hill I'm sure can get you to San Ignacio, or even arrange the trip to Tikal for you. I personally recommend that you not drive in Guatemala at this time, and that you go with a reputable tour operator. You can also take a Mundo Maya (Linea Dorado) van from Belize City to Flores.

Then from San Ignacio you can take a van (US$25 per person), bus (US$3) or taxi (US$80-$100) back to Belize City where you can catch a plane (cheaper from Municipal) or water taxi/ferry.

It's not really possible to go into the details of these various options in this e-mail. As you can see, it would make it all much easier and in the end cheaper to just rent a car. If you don't do that, I would just suggest you have the Belize lodges arrange transportation for you. They do this routinely, but the charges will add up.

You can get a rental car, such as a Suzuki Samurai, for US$65 to $75, plus tax and CDW (but your credit card may cover that -- I use Amex and it covers the CDW in Belize.) I usually rent from Budget, which is Belize's City class operation. But Crystal, Thrifty and Hertz, among others, are also pretty good. If you look at what the hotels charge to run you back and forth, the rental car will probably save you money, or at least you'll break even plus have the car to go where you want, when you want.

Drive safely!

--Lan

Q: We're planning to rent a car and travel through out belize over around 5 or 6 days including Placencia and the Cayo district. We want to go cheap and were considering just parking somewhere and laying back the seats and sleeping that way. Is that safe? Also how would you recommend going to Tikal, bus, or crystals auto rental.

Eric Barber


A: I think you would be asking for trouble to sleep in your car. A parked car is an invitation for burglary, and if you're in the car you could be a target, too. I parked my car in the jungle along the Macal river a couple of weeks ago, in an area where you would think there weren't any people at all, and over night someone tried to break into it. They were unsuccessful, but they did break the door handle.

As to going to Tikal, either car or bus would be okay. Bus is much cheaper, but if you already have the car then you would be paying for it anyway. You may have difficulty getting Guatemala insurance for the car, and your Belize insurance won't cover the vehicle in Guatemala, so you may have to carry the entire risk yourself. There have been a number of recent incidents in the Petén, including attacks on tourists near Tikal, but if you are careful and speak some Spanish then it should be okay. Unless there are heavy rains, the road to Tikal should be fine.

--Lan

Q: Thank you for your Web site. I found it helpful and candid. My wife and I are planning a trip there for next May, and I've got a few questions:
-I'm thinking about taking a water taxi from Belize City to San Pedro. You mentioned that sometimes the waters can be rough. How rough?
-I've seen that there's different companies that offer water taxis to San Pedro. Is there one that you prefer? How do I get to the embarking spot from the airport?

Luis Segarra


A: The waters inside the reef are shallow and can be very choppy if it is windy. Also, most of the boats are open and if it rains it's a wet ride. Even if it's not raining there's often a good deal of spray. But it's not as if you're in the open ocean with 40 foot swells or anything like that -- most days it's not a bad ride. On a sunny calm day it's a beautiful ride of about 75 minutes to San Pedro, 45 minutes to Caulker. The boats I prefer are the ones operated by the Caye Caulker Water Taxi Association. They leave from the Marine Terminal, which is a good place to wait for the boats. There's a seating area and two small museums. You buy a ticket at the reception desk. Boats leave here going both to Caye Caulker (US$7.50) and San Pedro (US$12.50). The last boat to Caulker is around 5 and the last to San Pedro at 3.

--Lan

Q: Can you tell me whether there are any scheduled ferries from Punta Gorda to Livingston, Guatemala. Does a boat go every day?

Mark Lawhead


A: There are scheduled water taxis (Requena's and Paco's) daily from Punta Gorda to Puerto Barrios. Last time I checked they both left early, at 9 and 8:30 a.m. respectively. They will stop at Livingston if there is enough demand. A couple of days a week boats may make a scheduled stop at Livingston. Fares are around US$10 to $12.50, plus you have to pay the Guatemala exit tax (US$10) and PACT fee (US$3.75).

Take special care in Guatemala!

--Lan

Q. We will be sailing from Ambergris Cay to Cozumel in March for two weeks. Would you tell us some interesting stops along the way including safe overnight anchorages?

Mary Kallstrom, Lebanon, New Jersey


A. Since Ambergris Caye is in northern Belize, just down from the Yucatan and separated only by a narrow channel, most of your sail trip will be in Mexican waters. Mexico is really not my area of expertise. I would suggest though, that if you don't already have it, you get Cruising Guide to Belize and Mexico's Caribbean Coast, by Freya Rauscher (Wescott Cove Publishing) -- it's the best cruising guide to the region and includes general charts.

--Lan

DRIVING TO BELIZE

Q: Hello I am thinking about driving my ‘94 Ford Ranger pickup truck . Can you tell
me how much the duty will cost to come in as a tourist. Also what should I
expect driving through Mexico?

Lisa Trosper


A: It will cost you nothing to bring in your truck is you are a tourist. You will be given a visitors card allowing entry for up to 30 days, and your truck will be entered on your passport. Thus to leave Belize you will have to leave with your truck (you cannot sell it in Belize.)
You will have to buy Belize insurance for your truck. It can be purchased at the border.

As for traveling through Mexico, here is a brief excerpt from my Belize First Guide to Mainland Belize book (available from Amazon.com, $14.95):

Arriving by Land from Mexico: What to Expect
By Bus: Since air fares are significantly less expensive to Cancun or Cozumel, Mexico, than to Belize City, some frugal travelers choose to fly there and bus to Belize. However, a new tourist entry fee of 160 pesos (about US$17) per person makes flying into Mexico a little less economical. If flying into the island of Cozumel, you’ll need to take the ferry (under US$6) to Playa del Carmen on the mainland, then walk to the bus terminal where ADO and other buses run to Chetumal. If arriving at Cancun, when you buy your ticket for transportation out of the airport explain that you want to go to the central bus terminal in Cuidad Cancun; you will be dropped off at the front of the terminal. Mayabus and ADO are among carriers to Chetumal from Cancun. First class express buses make fewer stops. Deluxe and first-class buses have reserved seats, air-conditioning, free videos and clean bathrooms. Some have attendants who offer drinks. Rates vary with the value of the peso, bus class and other factors but most are under US$15 from either Playa or Cancun to Chetumal. It takes about five to six hours from Cancun or Playa to Chetumal, depending on the stops and traffic.

At the Chetumal main bus station, you switch to a Batty bus. About a dozen Batty buses a day go from Chetumal to Belize City, starting at 4 a.m. and running to 6:30 p.m. The trip to Belize City takes three to four hours and costs US$4.50 for regular buses and US$6 for “premier class” which offers newer air-conditioned buses. There has been a wave of consolidation in the Belize bus business, and Novelo’s now dominates the Northern routes. The Belize buses stop at the border. You get off and clear Mexican immigration. Then you reboard the bus, cross the Rio Hondo, and go through Belize immigration and customs. The whole process usually takes about 30 minutes. You can also take a taxi from bus terminals to the border for around US$5. If you just want to go from the border to Corozal Town, the cost by bus is US 75 cents, or around US$15 for a taxi. However, if you’re not driving or on a bus, you’ll have to walk across the bridge between the Mexican and Belize border stations.

TIP: Belize does not observe daylight savings time, and Mexico does. Keep track of the time change when crossing the border.

By Car: A few travelers drive through Mexico to Belize. The trip from Brownsville, Texas, is about 1,225 miles and usually takes three to four days. Total nonstop driving time is around 28 hours. The fastest route from Brownsville/Matamoros is via Veracruz, Tampico and Villahermosa. You stay on Mexico national route 101 for about 118 miles, then route 180 or, for part of the way, 180D (a toll road) for 742 miles, then route 186 for 357 miles and then about 5 miles on route 307 to the Belize border. The toll roads are expensive, but you can make 70 mph on them, much faster than on the regular roads.

Driving through Mexican towns can be confusing, because roads are poorly signed. In general, avoid going through the town centers (Centro), as you can easily get lost and the hotels are more expensive.

To enter Mexico (and later, Belize) by car, you need your original vehicle title, and if your vehicle is not paid for, a notarized letter of permission from the lien holder. Besides paying the new Mexico tourist entry fee of 160 pesos (about US$18), which allows entry for up to six months, you have to provide a credit card in lieu of posting a cash bond to guarantee that you will bring the car back out of Mexico. By car, you are allowed only US$50 per person in merchandise to be carried into Mexico, plus as a resident of the U.S. or Canada you can bring in such items as binoculars, laptop computer, TV, camping equipment and fishing equipment.
If you are transporting goods of US$1,000 or more and are going through Mexico to Belize, you are supposed to use the services of a customs broker at the U.S.-Mexico border and get transmigratory status, which costs money in fees and, many say, in bribes to Mexican federal officers along the way. It’s best just to enter Mexico as a tourist and not go the transmig route.
Mexican auto insurance is required; it costs from around US$50 for five days. Insurance for a month or two is not much more than for a few days.

For current road conditions in Mexico, call the Green Angels (if you speak Spanish), tel. 011-52-5-250-8221 from the United States or 91-5-250-8221 within Mexico. Except on toll roads, driving after dark in Mexico is not advised. You may be stopped frequently for inspections. As of mid-2000, gas in Mexico was about US$2.05 for regular unleaded (magna sin), US$2.25 a gallon for premium, and US$1.70 a gallon for diesel.

You should exchange enough U.S. dollars to get you through Mexico, as U.S. dollars are not widely accepted, or are accepted at a low rate of exchange. The exchange rate for U.S. dollars in late 2000 was 9.25 pesos to the dollar, down from a high of around 10 pesos in 1999. Gasoline stations in Mexico usually do not accept credit cards.

Sanborn’s (tel. 800-222-0158, e-mail info@sanbornsinsurance.com; www.sanbornsinsurance.com) is a good source of information on travel in Mexico and for Mexican auto insurance. A Web site with all types of helpful information on Mexico is www.mexconnect.com.

On arrival at the Mexico-Belize border, you again need your original title (no photocopies) for your vehicle, or, if you do not own it free and clear, a notarized statement from the lien holder that you have permission to take the car out of the U.S. You also have to buy Belize auto insurance. There are brokers at the border. Three months of insurance should cost about US$50 to $60, or one month about US$30. Crossing the border you may have to have your car sprayed to kill hitchhiking bugs – the fee is around US$4.50.

If you plan to stay in Belize and keep your vehicle there, you have to pay import duty. The rate varies by number of cylinders and type of vehicle, but it runs about 45% to 88% of value. If you are just visiting, you should not have to pay the import tax, but the car is entered on your passport so you cannot sell it in Belize. There are customs brokers at the border to assist you with your paperwork. They’re worth the small fee – perhaps US$20 to $40 – they typically charge.

TIP: Avoid border crossings on Mondays, the busiest day.

Keep on truckin’!

--Lan

Q. Just wondering what it would take to get my 94 BMW R100 motorcycle into BZ? Thanks for the help!

Randy Westphal
SedonaMEDIA.com


A. I'm just not sure exactly what you mean. If you are coming in as a tourist, you'd just need to buy Belize vehicle insurance, which you can do at the border. Your moto will be entered on your passport, and you can't depart Belize without it unless you make arrangements and post bond. If you are coming in as a resident or otherwise want to keep your motorcycle in Belize permanently, or to sell it there, you'll have to pay import duties and sales tax, depending on the value of the vehicle.

--Lan Q: I've read a lot of articles on your site regarding Belize. I work 8 months in USA and am interested in taking a vacation to Belize for maybe 1 to 3 months. My question is this: Can you take a camper and drive through Mexico and into Belize for such a vacation? I realize this may
be a complex question/answer. I can actually think of about 10 other questions (at least) regarding this question. Like where can you stay, would one get harassed by authorities for parking, where to park, what about crime, would one be looked upon as "rich" and targeted by thugs? etc... and so on. Do you have to pay a ton to enter in? would plates and a license from USA be honored? I guess you are the man who would know these answers.

A: Yes, there is no problem in taking a camper through Mexico and into Belize. Many people do it, at least in Mexico and some go as far as Belize. It is best and safest to stay in campgrounds or, with permission, on the grounds of hotels or private homes. Otherwise you do run a risk of theft or in rare occasions worse. Mexico has quite a few RV campgrounds, though many are of poor quality compared with those in the U.S. Belize has only three or four RV campgrounds, but especially in Cayo district there are hotels that offer trailer space.

The best guide to campgrounds in Mexico, and it also covers Belize, is Traveler's Guide to Mexican Camping, second edition, by Mike & Terri Church, US$19.95.

You will only be granted a 30-day entry permit into Belize, but you can get the permit renewed for up to six months (at a cost of Us$12.50 per month.)

Happy trailering!

--Lan

Q: I am interested in a day trip, driving from Cancun to Corozal.
I have questions:


1. How many Km is the drive?
2. What "hold ups" can I expect at the boarder?
3. What's the best place(s) to see in this short amount of time?

Genghis Hill


A: Most car renters in Cancun do not permit their vehicles to be taken into Belize, so you'll have to look around if you want to find a vehicle you can drive into Belize. You'll have to buy Belize insurance at the border. Crossing the border is quick and easy, aside from issues relating to the vehicle.

The drive from Cancun to Belize is about four hours. So round trip it's a full day of driving, with little time to see anything in Belize. From the border at Chetumal to Belize City is about two hours one way.

There's not that much to see in far northern Belize, although Corozal Town is a pleasant small town and there are a couple of small Maya ruins in the area, including Santa Rita. There is a small museum and visitors center in Corozal Town. As a visitor from Mexican, you can buy cheap gas and gewgaws at the Corozal Free Zone just south of the border. The best restaurants in Corozal Town are Cafe Kela, Cactus Plaza and Tony's.

A new casino is planned for just south of the Free Zone, but it won't open for a couple of years.

Frankly, you'd be better off spending at least one or two days in Belize, rather than trying to do anything on a day trip.

--Lan Sluder

CRUISE SHIPS IN BELIZE

Q. I've been surfing the web trying to find a cruise that would allow us some time in Belize ...preferably a few days. None that I can find offer more than 6-8 hours there, and I can't imagine taking such a tiny sip and then being denied a whole glass! I'm curious about your impression of the experience cruise participants have in Belize...is it even worth it? What can you really do in a few hours? Do you know of any special cruise-type experience that allows for time in and around Belize beyond a single day?

We live in New Mexico and, although we are both well-travelled, have never taken a cruise and are a bit hesitant. We like casual, down-to-earth, even grubby experiences and have no desire to live like kings. We're more likely to be found in the lowliest local cafe or bar than the four-star restaurant designed for tourists.

Might you have any suggestions for us? Your opinions would be greatly appreciated!

Jim and Sue Neidhart (it's the latter who is rattling your cage)


A. About 200 ships will call on Belize City this year, but all are there just for a day or less. That's the nature of mass tourism cruising.

I believe the only ships that currently spend any time in Belize are those of the American Canadian Caribbean Line, which has small ships (around 100 passengers) stopping in Belize during some months of the year.

Otherwise, you'll just have to fly to Belize.

--Lan

Q. I was visiting your
website (www.belizefirst.com) and I have a few questions. Both me and my
fiancé are taking a Carnival cruise for part of our honeymoon from Miami FL
and will be stopping in Belize on Sept 18th 2002. (The previous week we will
be in Aruba). My situation is that I have problems with my ears where I can
not get any WATER in them, which knocks out any under water events. Since we
will only have so many hours to visit Belize what would be the best events
to do while we are their for the day? We both love taking pictures and are
beach people as well. We do not want to be on a 7 Hour event and miss out on other areas.

Robert Ghigliotti
Staten Island, NY


A. Since you can't get water in your ears, that would rule out the two most popular tours from Belize City: the cave tubing tour and the snorkeling tour to Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley. So I'd suggest one of the Maya ruins tours, either Altun Ha or Xunantunich. After or before that tour you could walk around the Fort George area of Belize City for awhile -- see the museum in the old gaol, see the lighthouse, old colonial buildings, etc. Alternatively you could take a water taxi from Belize City to San Pedro, Ambergris Caye, and spend the day there. The water taxis (US$22 round trip) leave and return from the dock at the Tourist Village where the passengers are brought in on tenders.

--Lan

Q. We will be arriving into Belize City on Norwegian Sun Cruiseship in late
August and are interested in diving the "Blue Hole" while the ship is in
port for the day. Can you recommend a dive operator that can accommodate
us? Anxiously awaiting your reply. If the Blue Hole is not practical
for a day trip, what would you suggest as next best option? As we have
some non-divers in our group, which tour would you recommend they take in
Belize?
gitana@juno.com


A. I don't believe it's practical to do the Blue Hole on most cruise stops to Belize, due to the time required to get to Lighthouse Atoll from Belize City. Some cruise lines do offer a dive trip to another atoll, Turneffe, from Belize City. That trip takes about 7 hours and costs around US$120 for a two-tank dive. Some cruise lines also offer dive trips to the reef around Ambergris Caye.

The most popular shore excursion in Belize is cave tubing. This involves floating down the Caves Branch or other river on inner tubes. At some points, you go through caves on the underground river, and there are Maya relics in some of the caves. Also popular are the snorkel trips to Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark Ray Alley where you can snorkel or swim with nurse sharks and sting rays. Other popular trips are to Maya sites at Altun Ha or Xunantunich.

--Lan

Q. My name is Cherie Kahen and I will be taking a cruise with my husband to the carribean and stopping in belize city from 7 am to 6 pm on a wednesday. can you recommend anything to do that does not involve flying? I do not feel comfortable on small planes. We were thinking of taking a water taxi to ambergris caye but with the schedule of the water taxi we would have about 4 hrs on the island. Is that worth it? Can you recommend anything else? We dont plan on seeing ruins or anything like that.

A. The most popular tours for cruise passengers are the cave tubing trip, snorkeling trip to Shark Ray Alley near Ambergris Caye and the tour to Altun Ha Maya ruins. You can arrange for these independently, but it is probably easier and more efficient (e.g. you get priority for tendering in to Belize City) just to go on a ship's tour, even if it is a little more expensive.

The new water taxi system in Belize City makes it easier to get to either Ambergris Caye or Caye Caulker. You leave right from the Tourism Village where cruise passengers disembark. These boats are bigger and a bit faster than in the ones from the Marine Terminal. It takes about 75 minutes to get to San Pedro and costs US$22.50 round-trip. The current schedule is

From Belize City to San Pedro (arriving at the Texaco dock at the north end of town):
8:30 a.m.
10 a.m.
11:30 a.m.
2:30 p.m.
4:30 p.m.

From San Pedro to Belize City:

7 a.m.
11 a.m.
12:30 p.m.
2 p.m.
4 p.m.

This schedule would give you enough time to experience San Pedro, which is a very pleasant little town.

If you decide to stay in Belize City, I suggest seeing the new Belize Museum (admission US$5) in the Central Bank Building, shopping at the Tourist Village shops, walking around the Fort George area where there are a lot of scenic colonial buildings and perhaps having a snack or meal at one of the local restaurants such as the Wet Lizard.

--Lan


WEATHER IN BELIZE

Q: I have visited Belize many times, usually in the late summer (August - September) or spring (April - May) and have usually enjoyed good weather. I'm now planning a trip for the entire month of October of this year (staying in Placencia). In your opinion, is that a good time to visit?

Jason Bettencourt


A: There isn't that much difference between the weather in October and that in August and September. Statistically, October is the rainiest month of the year in Belize, but only slightly more so than September. (August is usually not as wet, as "maugers" -- short dry spells -- often occur in that month.) Of course it's impossible to accurately predict the weather for any given specific period. October in Placencia this year could be very wet or there might not be too much rain. So far this rainy season, there has been less rain than usual in Stann Creek District.

From early September to early November is also prime hurricane season in Belize, although only four serious storms have hit Belize in the last 70 years, so the chances of a hurricane are relatively small.

In Placencia, a few hotels and restaurants close for parts of September and October, but most are open.

Bottom line: If you like Belize in August and September, you'll probably like it in October as well.

Enjoy Belize!

-- Lan

 

TOURS

Q. Greetings from Ontario, Canada!
I have been busy surfing your BELIZE FIRST site and am very impressed with
the amount of information offered. I have a few questions about Belize, as
a couple of friends and I are thinking of planning a trip for 10 days at the
end of March. Most of the Q&A's on the site were from those traveling from
the US, whereas, we will be coming from Toronto Airport, Canada. You
mentioned that there was an individual that could be of some assistance to
those planning a trip (Katie Valk - info@belize-trips.com) and I was wondering
if this would be a good contact for us to explore, or if she dealt mainly
with those traveling from the US. To put a twist on things, another friend
that is currently living in Monterrey, Mexico, will be joining us...and I
was wondering how easy it will be for her to get to Belize (via plane or
bus?). You had mentioned that it is cheaper to fly to Cancun and take a bus
across the boarder, perhaps this would be a good meeting place before
heading to Belize? We haven't decided if we should plan this trip on our
own, (rent hotels and a car along the way) or if we should go through a tour
company (something like Kontiki Tours etc)...what would your suggestion be?
Do you know of any reliable tour companies operating out of Toronto? I guess
one concern would be joining a tour that would not give us the freedom to go
where we want to go and see all that we can possibly see. Whereas on the
other hand, we could plan a trip and get held up by unforeseen
circumstances, and we would only have 10 days! As students, we would like
to keep the budget to a minimum, but realize, like any other trip, safety
should be kept top of mind. We love the outdoors, and would like to take
advantage of the vast outdoor adventures that Belize offers (Hiking, Mayan
Ruins, Snorkeling, Caving, Canoeing and Kayaking etc) and would love to
spend some time in the Cayes. After visiting the Belize Tourism Board
website, the possibility of a visit has us very excited...but we don't
really know where to start! Any information/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Kate Slater



A. I think Katie (info@belize-trips.com) could help you, whether you travel independently or want more of a group thing. She can often get pretty good deals on hotels, though in some cases you may be able to get as good or better a price by booking direct via the Internet. It's also good to have someone in the country to help out if anything goes wrong. If you decide to work with Katie, please tell her I said hello.

In general, Belize is an easy country in which to travel independently, and you rarely save much on package deals. It is usually cheaper to fly to Cancun, either on a discounted regular air fare or on a charter (I'm sure there are numerous charter flights from Toronto to Cancun.) There currently is no air service from anywhere in Mexico to Belize, although one can fly to Chetumal, Mexico, which is at the northern Belize border.

--Lan


Q. I was reading Travel Talk, and you seem to be the one to talk to about Belize. There are 6 of us (all females from 14-49) going on a cruise May 17th that will stop in Belize for a day. The cruise has a brochure full of things to do. Of course I left it at home, so I can't remember all the things we had circled to do, but we want to know whether or not to book the trip from the ship or if we will be able to find safe ones for less money on land and where we should look. We were thinking about kayaking but also wanted to try and visit a wildlife sanctuary. Also I love to ride horses and was wondering what the prices are like off the ship.

We are also traveling to Cozumel, Cayman and Roatan so we can pretty much snorkel anywhere.

I would love to have an expert opinion on what you would consider "must see/must do" at any of these places that you know about.

Judy Wood

A. With six people, easily the most cost-efficient thing to do is to rent a large car or van and do your own touring. Several of the car renters in Belize City, such as Budget and Hertz-Safari, offer vans such as a Mitsubish L300 van seating up to 12 people for around US$100 a day plus tax and CDW. (Budget's Belize Web site is www.budget-belize.com)

Driving in Belize is easy and safe, and roads are fairly well marked.

Among the interesting sites within a short drive of Belize City are:

Belize Zoo, 45 minutes west from Belize City
Crooked Tree, a great birding area, 1 hour north
Xunantunich ruins, 1 45 minutes west
Cave tubing at Jaguar Paw, 1 hour west
Altun Ha ruins, 1 1/4 hours north
Baboon Sanctuary, 1 hour northwest

If you decide to go on a tour, you can arrange that at the Fort Point Tourist Village which is close to where you come in from the cruise ship, or through the ship. I think the most interesting and unusual thing to do is the cave tubing, where you tube on a river in part through underground caves and can see Maya artifacts. The Belize Zoo is small but fascinating, with most of the Belize wildlife represented.

--Lan

Q. My wife and I have booked our first trip to Belize for late March and will
be staying just outside San Pedro. We were wondering if you could recommend any rainforest tours. Specifically, we were looking for a day trip tour with a heavy emphasis on wildlife. We have seen a number of tour guides listed on the official Belize site, so if you know of a specific tour group and/or specific tour you enjoyed, we'd appreciate it. We're pretty active and don't mind some hiking, but pretty much just want to pack in as much widelife/jungle as we can in one day, so we can spend the rest of our week snorkling. Thank you in advance for your time and we're picking up the latest Fodor's this week.
Kent Smith

A. Most of the tours from San Pedro are "general interest" trips rather than focusing on wildlife or birding, though guides usually are knowledgeable about local wildlife.

Among the general interest tours, you might look at the one to Lamanai. It is a full-day tour that includes a trip up the New River where you will see some birds and other riverine live, and through the New River Lagoon where there are lots of crocodiles. The Lamanai site has a resident troop of howler monkeys. Tanisha Tours runs the best trip to Lamanai.

You might also look at birding trips to Crooked Tree. Elbert Greer, whose birding columns for the San Pedro Sun were just collected in a book, Birdwatching with Bubba, does tours.

But really for the best wildlife spotting, you need to spend more than a day on the mainland.

Although I did the update on Fodor's, the issue that's in bookstores now is a bit dated. I have just completed revising the 4th edition but it won't be out until summer. I'd look at The Rough Guide to Belize or Moon's Belize Handbook, or my Guide to Mainland Belize.

--Lan Sluder

Belize books and publications by Lan Sluder:
Belize First Magazine http://www.belizefirst.com/
Fodor's Belize and Guatemala Guide
Belize First Guide to Mainland Belize
Adapter Kit: Belize
Fodor's UpClose Central America
Belize Book of Lists 2000
San Pedro Cool (coming soon)


Q: I am a female solo traveller from England who would like to visit Belize in February 2002. I would like to spend about 10 days (give or take) touring Belize (plus 4 or 5 nights somewhere on the beach but with the accent on flora and fauna rather than diving). I do not want to travel independently but would like to be part of an organised tour. There are a very limited number of tours on offer from the UK and wondered if you had details of anyone in Belize (or even the USA) who provide group tours. I have searched the internet but can only find tour operators in Belize that arrange packages for a minimum of two people. Hope you can help! By the way, I have read the readers' reviews of hotels and found them very informative and interesting. Thanks for any help you can give (even if it is that no-one provides such tours, at least I will know not to search any more!)

Angela Mann
England


A. I would recommend you talk (via the Internet) with Katie Volk with Maya Travel (e-mail mayatravel@btl.net, P.O. Box 458, Muncipal Airport, Belize City, Belize, C.A.). She's a former New Yorker who has lived in Belize for many years. She arranges independent and group tours in Belize, is very knowledgeable and can probably provide the type of tour you want.

There are also a number of tour operators in the U.S. and Britain that do tours -- often nature, birding or adventure tours. Most can handle either individuals or groups.

Among these are:

USA:

Close Encounters, P.O. Box 1320, Detroit Lakes, MN 56502, tel. 888-875-1822, www.belizecloseencounters.com

International Expeditions, One Environs Park, Helena, AL 35080, tel. 800-633-4377, www.ietravel.com

Slickrock Adventures, P.O. Box 1400, Moab, UT 84532, tel. 800-390-5715, www.slickrock.com

Elderhostel, 11 Ave. de Lafayette, Boston, MA 02111, tel. 800-877-8056, www.elderhostel.org

Wildside Birding Tours, 14 Marchwood Center, Exton, PA 19341, tel. 888-875-9453, www.adventurecamera.com

BRITAIN
Trips, 9 Byron Place, Clifton, Bristol BS8 1JT, tel. 0117-987-2626, www.tripsworldwide.co.uk

Journey Latin America, 12-13 Healthfield Terrace, London W4 4JE, tel. 020-8747-8315, www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk

Naturetrek, Cheriton Mill, Cheriton, Alresford, Hampshire S024 ONG, Tel: 01962 733051, www.naturetrek.co.uk

Adventure Bound, 14 Barley Mow Passage, Chiswick, London W4 4PH, tel. 020-8742-8612, www.adventurebound.co.uk

Cheerio!

--Lan

 

PLACES TO STAY

Q. I would be very grateful if you could let me know how to get in contact with the Gaviota Hotel on Tobacco Caye. All the internet links seem to not be working. Also do you have any idea what sort of price range the hotel is in? Many thanks

Mindy Gill

A. Try calling 501-509-5032 (as of today, May 1, 2002, all telephone numbers in Belize have changed to seven digits).

Last I heard, a few weeks ago, rate at Gaviota was US$50 for two people, inclusive of all meals, plus 7% tax. Might be a bit less this summer.

--Lan

 

Q. I just have two questions.

1. What is the best cheap hotel on the beach in San
Pedro?

2. What is the best cheap method of getting from
Belize Intl. airport to San Pedro?

Oscar Novoa

A. 1. Rubie's.

2. Walk a mile to the Northern Highway (or hitch a hide). Flag down a bus going to Belize City. Take the bus into town (around a dollar). Walk to the Marine Terminal and take a Caye Caulker Water Taxi to San Pedro (US$12.50).

--Lan

Q. A friend sent me your website as a good resource for my first time trip to Belize at the end of May 2002. So far I must say your website has been fantastic. We will be traveling to Belize for 10 nights and will split our time b/t Ambergris, Caye Caulker, San Ignacio and Placencia. If i might indulge you, i have a few questions about lodging accommodations in each. For a portion of our trip, we are willing to spend if it's a good value but would also like to mix some good economy lodging in as well where appropriate to balance out the costs. With that said our questions are as follows (I hope the length does not scare you off - we are excited about the trip and don't want to make too many mistakes):

1) In Ambergris, is it worth the money to stay at the likes of Ramon's Village or Captain Morgan's Retreat in the north or can better value be had while still getting the Belizean experience at Caribe Island, the Belizean Shores, the Seven Seas Resort or Coconuts;

2) In Caye Caulker, what are your thoughts between the Lazy Iguana, Sea View Hotel or the Tropical Paradise Resort?

3) In San Ignacio the choices seem more difficult. On a very economy scale the web page for Midas Tropical Resort seems like you get the "jungle" experience at a very low cost but there must be something lacking for the price to be so low. Any thoughts? Our other choices are the more upscale Blacaneaux, Black Rock Lodge, or Crystal Paradise.

a) Any thoughts on whether the packages offered by these Cayo District resorts are the better value to setting everything up myself?

b) Any reccommendations on the most reliable, comfortable and economical transfer service from Belize City to San Ignacio?

4) In Placencia, we are trying to decide between Blue Crab Resort, Kitty's Place, Ranguana Lodge, the Nautical Inn or the Serenity Resort. Thoughts?

I would truly be appreciative of any response you could provide me on the above. I understand that our travel tastes and interests may be different than yours but nonethelss your thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated. We look forward to hearing from you. Thank you.

Jeff Freid

A. 1) In my opinion, while both Ramon's and Captain Morgan's have appeal, for many they may not be worth the additional cost compared to a condotel, where you often get more space for the money. I especially like the small condotels such as Banana Beach, Belizean Shores, Belizean Reef, Paradise Villas, The Palms, Villas at Banyan Bay and others. My new guidebook to Ambergris Caye, San Pedro Cool (available from Amazon.com for $14.95) has ratings and reviews of all hotels on the island.

2) My tops picks on Caye Caulker for value and location would be Tree Tops, Trends Beachfront, Anchorage and Seaside Cabanas, although all of the places you mention are fine. If going off-season, you can just arrive on Caulker, walk around and pick the hotel you like. My San Pedro Cool guide also contains a miniguide to Caye Caulker.

3) Your selections for Cayo are all over the board from low budget to deluxe. The best lodges in Cayo are Ek 'Tun, Chaa Creek, Blancaneaux and duPlooy's. If you can afford those, they are great places. There are also many choices in less expensive price ranges (including the safari camp at Chaa Creek and the budget rooms at duPlooy's). My choices among these also include Banana Bank, Ian Anderson's and Pook's Hill (all in Cayo District but located closer to Belmopan), Nabitunich, Crystal Paradise and Green Heaven. In the budget range, Martz Farm, Trek Stop, Clarissa Falls, Parrot's Nest, and Hummingbird. In town we like Aguada and Martha's. You can download selected chapters of my Belize First Guide to Mainland Belize free from our Web edition of Belize First. Among these chapters are a couple on Cayo with complete hotel information.

4) In Placencia, of the places you mention, I would put Kitty's and Nautical Inn at the top. Serenity is closed. . Blue Crab and Ranguana are good places.

--Lan


Q. 1) What are your thoughts of the Caribe Island Resort on Ambergris Caye?

2) Has Placencia been so damaged by the hurricane that we are better off
staying extra days on the Cayes instead of incurring the cost to head down
to Placencia? Or is the snorkeling from Placencia worth the extra trip?

3) If I don't want my lodge in Cayo District to arrange for my
transportation from Belize City can you recommend any reliable, comfortable and cost effective shuttle/van services? Any idea what we should be paying for this service?

JEFF FREID

A. Caribe Island Resort is under new management, which is making a lot of positive changes. Depending on the rate, it can be a good choice.

Placencia is recovering but it is taking longer than anyone thought, and especially in Placencia village things are still a good ways from normalcy. Personally at this time I'd probably stay on the cayes or possibly go to Hopkins.

The Aguada Hotel in Santa Elena has a nice Mercedes van which makes the Cayo-BZE trip daily depending on demand. I believe the rate is still US$25 per person one-way.

--Lan

Q. I visited your site today and I;find it very cool and helpfull. My friend and I want to go to Belize in October this year. We want to ask you if it is save for backpackers to travel around Belize?? And also if there are cheap questhouses to stay or are there just expensive hotels? Hope to hear from you soon,
greatings from Holland, Marjolein and Richard

A. There are two ways to look at costs in Belize. Either it is one of the most expensive countries in Central America or it is one of the cheapest in the Caribbean.

Double rooms in safe, clean guesthouses in Belize are available in most areas for US$15 to $30.

--Lan

Q. hello and thanks for reading this.. i am looking to go down for a week. all i really want to do is lay out on the beach or pool side and soak up the sun. would like a nice place but pretty near night life. will be going single-age 50, i will snorkle but doublt i will dive again--too scared. i have a good body and will be in a thong-is that going to be a problem? are american beers available on sanpedro? bud, miller, coors? what do you do, just wallk around at nite and go from bar to bar?---sounds good to me! i am currently thinking of beachfront suites or belize beach suites- or should i think about going south some? thanks a ton,,,,

clark gilmore

A. Sounds like Ambergris Caye is the place for you.

If you want to easily go out for drinks and dinner to different spots, you probably should look at hotels in town or on the south end. North Ambergris hotels require a water taxi or other boat trip to and from town. This gets expensive and becomes a bit of a hassle, especially late at night.

U.S. beers are available at some bars and in a few groceries but are very expensive -- several dollars a can even in groceries. Most visitors enjoy the local beers -- Belikin, Lighthouse and Belikin Stout. If you have a fridge, you can have a case of regular Belikin delivered to your room or condo for under US$20.

Thongs are not a problem around the pool but more conservative attire (regular swimsuit or shorts and tee-shirt) would be better in town.

--Lan

Q. My fiance and I are considering Belize as our honeymoon destination. We will be traveling 8-12-02 for 5-7 days. Can you recommend locations and lodging? We want to soak up the sun, do some snorkeling, visit ruins. Thanks.

Jeff Pitman

A. It's difficult to make recommendations without knowing your budget, but here, from my Belize Book of Lists (a complete version is available as an Adobe Acrobat pdf shareware download from our Web edition at www.belizefirst.com) are a couple of lists of honeymoon ideas and romantic places.

--Lan

>>

Great Honeymoon Ideas
Belize is a popular honeymoon spot. With some prior planning, visitors even get married in Belize. Here, in no particular order, are our suggestions for great honeymoon destinations in Belize.

For Soft Adventure in the Jungle
Here are four jungle lodges where you can enjoy nature with creature comforts and privacy:
• Chan Chich Lodge, Orange Walk District. In the middle of the bush, with cut trails for easy jungle access and good local guides to share their knowledge with you. Cabañas are single units for privacy. Very safe, very good.
• Lamanai Outpost Lodge, Orange Walk District. Beautiful setting on the New River Lagoon near Lamanai ruins. Take a spotlight nature tour at night. Thatch cabañas aren’t fancy but are well- designed and private.
• Jaguar Paw, Belmopan Area. Ride the river and explore caves by day, enjoy good food and air conditioned comfort by night.
• Ek’ Tun, near San Ignacio. Only two deluxe private cabins, in a lush jungle setting, with excellent food.

For Luxury
For a sybaritic honeymoon, consider one of these options:
• Villa units at Blancaneaux, Mountain Pine Ridge. You’ll live like a movie star at Francis Ford Coppola’s place. Swim in the river, visit nearby waterfalls, tour the ancient city of Caracol.
• Beachfront owners’ villas at Victoria House, Ambergris Caye. Luxurious designer villas directly on the water.
• Condo units at Villas at Banyan Bay, The Palms or Banana Beach, Ambergris Caye. Lots of space, and units at Banana Beach and Banyan Bay have whirlpools.
• Cayo Espanto, a small private island near Ambergris Caye, has individual houses with pools.

Budget Honeymoon
• Stay in a tent at a “safari” camp at Chaa Creek near San Ignacio.
• Honeymoon in a “tree house” at Parrot’s Nest near San Ignacio.
• Rough it (a little) on the reef in a cabin on Tobacco, Ranguana, South Water, Long or other small caye.
• Camp at Cockscomb Preserve – common kitchens are available to cook your own meals.
• Enjoy an island on a budget with a spic ‘n span room at Tree Tops Hotel, Chocolate’s or Tom’s Hotel, Caye Caulker.

Kickback and Relax Honeymoon
For a low key, no-pressure honeymoon, try one of these:
• Enjoy a beautiful tropical island at Pelican Beach Resort’s cottages on South Water Caye.
• Relax, snorkel and doze at Little Water Caye.
• Treat yourself to a private cabaña on a remote atoll -- Lighthouse Reef Resort, Manta Reef, Blackbird Caye or Turneffe Lodge.
• Do a beach holiday in one of the three cabañas at Beaches and Dreams, Sittee Point.

Get Away from It All
• Charter a sailboat and visit your choice of more than 200 islands in the Caribbean off the coast of Belize (see 5 Boat Charters, page 78)
• Rent your own private island – French Louis Caye is one that’s available for around US$150 a day. It has a wooden house, snorkeling right off the beach, and no mosquitoes. (Reserve through Kitty’s, Placencia.)


...

10 Most Romantic Places to Stay
Any place may be romantic if you’re truly in love, but here are some hotels that help the romance flow. Our selections are based on setting, general ambiance and privacy.

(Listed Alphabetically)
Blancaneaux, Mountain Pine Ridge
For those with a yen for luxury, a villa here would make a wonderful love nest – soaring thatched ceilings, indoor/outdoor Japanese-style baths, decks with views of the river.

Capricorn, North Ambergris Caye
Mini-resort with cabins on the beach and an enticing restaurant.

Casablanca, Consejo Shores
Away from the crowds, with a view of Chetumal Bay and the Mexico beyond.

Cayo Espanto, Near Ambergris Caye
Your own house with small splash pool, on a private island.

Chan Chich, Gallon Jug, Orange Walk District
For lovers with an interest in birding and wildlife.

Ek’ Tun, Cayo
Two deluxe thatched cabanas for jungle quiet times by lamp light.

Luba Hati, Seine Bight (Placencia)
Run by an Italian, so it has to be romantic, right?

Maruba Spa, North of Belize City
A certain atmosphere of lassitude and sensuality in the jungle.

Mata Chica, North Ambergris Caye
For the hip in love.

Victoria House, Ambergris Caye
Barefoot but upmarket seaside resort – the seafront villas here are special.

Q. We are planning to go to Belize on the 23th of May. We where wondering if it would be possible to stay on, or right at the beach somewhere in Belize, in a hut/lodge or something like that for a cheap price. We have no idea if this is possible, we went to the Phillippines last year and it was no problem overthere so we hope we can do this again in Belize! I hope you can help us!
Thanks, Cynthia Weel

A. Belize is not the Phillippines, but there are several places where you can stay in a cabin or cabana on the water fairly inexpensively.

My first recommendation would be Tobacco Caye, which is a tiny island directly on the reef (you can snorkel from shore). Accommodations there start at around US$45 to 50 a night for two people INCLUDING all meals -- Gaviota is about the cheapest.

Another option is Hopkins village, on the coast south of Dangriga. Rooms/cabanas are available here starting at around US$15 double without meals.

The most popular budget destination in Belize is Caye Caulker, one of the Northern Cayes with a population of about 800 and around 35 hotels. Most of the nicer places are US$20-$50 a night double, or more, but some are less expensive.

--Lan


Q. We are thinking of going to Ambergris Caye in December 2002. We would like to stay somewhere quiet, it doesn't have to be fancy, does need to be on the water, preferably with kitchenette or kitchen. Do you have any recommendations?

Thank you!

Sue Stevenson



A.
Quite a few of the small condotels and suites hotels on Ambergris Caye should work great for you. Here are some of them, from reviews in my new guidebook to the island, San Pedro Cool. And you won't regret choosing Ambergris Caye!

--Lan

>>

THREE STARS PLUS Blue Tang Inn, tel. 866-337-8203 or 501-226-2326, fax 226-2358; e-mail bluetanginn@btl.net; www.bluetanginn.com. New management has done a lot to improve this property, which was formerly Rock’s Inn. The 14 studio-type suites with kitchens in this three-story blue hotel have been remodeled and upgraded, and there’s a new “cozy” swimming pool. (For those who aren’t divers, a Blue Tang is a colorful tropical fish seen around the barrier reef.) Rates US$90 to $115 off-season, US$125 to $140 plus tax November through April, including continental breakfast. Bottom-line: Quality suites accommodation at north edge of town.

THREE STARS PLUS Coral Bay Villas, Coconut Drive, P.O. Box 1, San Pedro; tel. 501-226-3003, fax 226-3006; e-mail cbayvillas@btl.net; www.ambergriscaye.com/coralbayvillas/index.html. One-bedroom beachfront condo suites in a white two-story concrete building with red tile roof. No pool, but there’s a nice sandy beach. Offered through Southwind Realty, rates start at around US$95 double, plus tax. Bottom-line: Another nice condo choice.

THREE STARS PLUS Caribbean Villas, Coconut Drive, San Pedro, tel. 501-226-2715, fax 226-2885, e-mail c-v-hotel@btl.net; www.caribbeanvillashotel.com. Owners Wil (a dentist by profession) and Susan (whose influence is seen in the design of the hotel) Lala and friendly on-site management make the difference here. There's a variety of accommodations in the two-level whitewashed buildings with tile roofs, from small studios to two-bedroom suites. No pool ­ we’re told one may be planned ­ but you’ll enjoy the small beach area and pier, with a little artificial reef for snorkeling, and there are two outdoor hot tubs. No restaurant, but several are nearby, as is Island Supermarket if you want to self-cater. A "people perch" is great for a bird's eye view of the island or for letting the birds see you. Free bikes for guests, phones in rooms but no TV. Wil gives new guests a free golf cart tour of the island. This has always been one of our favorite hotels on the island. On a recent visit, Susan Lala showed us around, and everything still looked good to us. The Lalas are redoing some of their rooms and conduct an annual “fall cleaning and spruce up.” Some of the newer places on the island, however, with freshly minted rooms, swimming pools, in-room jacuzzis, cable TV and other spiffy amenities, may grab more of today’s generation of San Pedro travelers. Properties like Caribbean Villas, even with their lovely and quiet settings, may need to make new investments to keep up with the Joneses. Still, most guests are enthusiastic about Caribbean Villas, and the hotel enjoys a high rate of repeat guests. Rates are US$95-$245 double mid-November through May, and only a bit less, US$85 to $225, the rest of the year. All rates plus tax (no service charge). Bottom line: Friendly capable management and lovely setting make a visit here a good experience.


THREE STARS Paradise Villas, Barrier Reef Drive, San Pedro. Paradise Villas is an attractive low-rise condo colony at the north end of town, with a bit of a complication. The complication is that the units are managed and rented by several different groups, including Nellie Gomez Property Management, Tradewinds (which owns and manages the largest number of units), Paradise Villas Belize and Caye Management. Making it even more complicated is that a few owners, including several who own two or more units, such Bob Howard, operating as Beachfront Suites (beachfrontsuites@aol.com) and Susan Garcia (susangg@garcia.mpowermail.com) also offer their units privately. To confuse you even more, these Paradise condos are unrelated to the similarly named Paradise Resort Hotel, except that is next door. If you want to stay at Paradise Villas, just contact several of the agents and see what’s available and compare prices. Choose from either one- or two-bedroom condos. The two-bedroom units are not as big as some other two-bedroom suites at island condotels. Though units vary in furnishings and amenities such as whether the air conditioning is just in the bedroom or throughout the units, they are basically similar. Rates also vary among the different agents, but most are in the range of US$125 to $185 in-season and US$90 to $165 off-season. Agents: Nellie Gomez Property Management, P. O. Box 143, Pescador Drive, San Pedro Town; tel. 501-226-2087, fax 226-2400; e-mail nellie@btl.net; www.nelliesproperty.com. Paradise Villas Belize, P.O. Box 96, San Pedro; tel. 501-226-3202, fax 226-2892; e-mail info@paradisevillasbelize.com; www.paradisevillasbelize.com; Caye Management, Barrier Reef Drive, San Pedro; tel. 501-226-3077, fax 226-2831; e-mail cayeman@btl.net; www. cayemanagement.com. Tradewinds (this travel wholesaler manages 12 Paradise units and has a manager with an office across the street), tel. in the U.S. 800-451-7776, fax 414-258-5336, in Belize tel. 501-226-2822, fax 226-3746; e-mail belizetradewinds@aol.com; www.tradewindsparadisevillas.com. In most cases, V, MC and Amex are accepted by these agents. Bottom line: Comfortable, if slightly confusing, condo colony.

THREE STARS Mayan Princess, Barrier Reef Drive, San Pedro; tel. 800-850-4101 or 501-226-2778, fax 226-2784; e-mail mayanprin@btl.net; www.mayanprincesshotel.com. This three-story, seafront condotel, painted a distinctive coral pink, has 23 large and attractive one-bedroom suites (king or queen beds) with air conditioning, kitchenettes, phones and cable TV. Rates are a good value at US$90 double off-season, US$125 in-season, plus 7% hotel tax and 10% service. Dive packages and long-term rates available. No pool, but each suite has a balcony with wonderful views of the sea, and the whole atmosphere here is comfortable and homey. Ably managed by Sheila and Rusty Nale. Bottom line: Convenient, comfortable suites on the water at reasonable rates.

THREE STARS PLUS Belizean Reef Suites, Coconut Drive, San Pedro; tel. 330-544-4302 or 501-226-2582, fax 330-652-0026; e-mail bzreef@yahoo.com; www.ambergriscaye.com/bzreef/index.html. Bright white, spic 'n span one-bedroom/one-bath, two-bedroom/two-bath and three-bedroom/three-bath condos, on the sea. This is a popular spot for travelers who want a great location and lots of space. The first-floor units on the water are primo. There’s air conditioning in bedrooms only. No pool, but there’s a good beach close by at Ramon’s. Rates US$80 to $165 off-season, US$135 to $249 in-season. Rates plus tax, no service charge. US$10 per person additional over two. Children under 10 not accepted. Bottom line: Very nice small condotel in a very good location.

FOUR STARS The Palms, P.O. Box 88, Coconut Drive, San Pedro; tel. 501-226-3322, fax 226-3601, e-mail belizepalms@btl.net; www.belizepalms.com. This three-story condotel on the water has nearly everything going for it - 12 attractive and well-decorated condominium apartments (8 units are two-bedroom and the rest one-bedroom), a nice small pool surrounded by tropical greenery, a sandy beach, and an excellent location at the south edge of town. Rates off-season: one-bedroom condo, US$98 to $115, two-bedroom US$158, with discounts on week or longer stays; in-season: one-bedroom, US$148 to $168, two-bedroom, US$208. Rates plus tax and 10% service charge. US$20 extra per person over two in the one-bedroom and four in the two-bedroom. Bottom line: Excellent option for a condo vacation.

THREE STARS Corona Del Mar/Woody’s Wharf, Coconut Drive, San Pedro; tel. 501-226-2055, fax 226-2461; e-mail corona@btl.net; www.ambergriscaye.com/coronadelmar/index.html. This is a low-profile lodging spot at little over a half mile from town, but regulars know it offers pleasant rooms and attractive apartments on the water, at moderate cost. Owners Woody and Helen host you in their 12 large rooms and four suites. As a bonus, just across the street is Carmen’s restaurant, one of the best inexpensive places to eat on the island. Off-season rates US$75 to $105; in-season US$120 to $145, all plus tax and 10% service. Bottom-line: Friendly, homey place.

THREE STARS PLUS HHH + Xanadu Island Resort, Coconut Drive, San Pedro; tel. 501-226-2814, fax 226-3409; e-mail xanadu@btl.net; www.xanaduresort-belize.com. Xanadu is billed as the “world’s first monolithic dome resort,” a description which might sound good to an engineer but doesn’t exactly get our poetic juices flowing. Happily, these monolithic domes look nicer than they sound. Owner Ivan Sheinbaum showed us a new unit that was under construction. The building process is costly, but the result is a masonry dome with foam insulation that, according to Ivan, a Canadian originally from South Africa, is fireproof and can withstand winds of up to 300 mph. The domes are covered with thatch palapa roofs, and inside the 10 condo suites, most of which have a queen bed and full bath on the main floor and a second bath and queen bed in an upstairs loft, are attractively furnished in earth tone colors, with central air-conditioning, fans, phones and cable TV. You get the use of bikes, canoes and kayaks gratis, and the hotel even covers taxi fare from the airstrip. There’s a nice little stretch of beach, a 350-foot pier and a new freshwater swimming pool. Rates US$165 double in-season and US$125 mid-May to mid-November, plus 7% hotel tax but no service charge. Bottom-line: Something different on the beach.

 FOUR STARS PLUS Villas at Banyan Bay ( P.O. Box 91, San Pedro, tel. 501-226-3739, fax 226-2766, e-mail: banyanbay@btl.net, www.banyanbay.com. On a recent trip, my family and I stayed in one of Banyan Bay’s two-bedroom, two-bath condos, and a terrific family place this is. Especially in summer, the majority of the guests here appear to be families. The kids seem to love the big, two-section pool, and dad and mom go for the fully equipped kitchen and the jacuzzi off the master bedroom. The beach here, about a mile and a half south of town, is one of the best on the island, though it does have some seagrass, and there’s a dive and gift shop on the pier. Rico’s restaurant, new in summer 2001, didn’t knock us out, but service was good, and it has a beautiful setting on the water for drinks or dinner; breakfast is handy and well done. We were impressed by the space at Banyan ­ these units are twice as big as many of the typical two-bedroom condo on the island ­ and by the high degree of maintenance. The apartments we saw look just as good now as when they were built several years ago. The woodwork and cabinets are mahogany, and the cathedral ceilings in the main living area sport a stunning array of tropical hardwoods. And, the air conditioning works. At Banyan Bay, the units get cool and, with the help of ceiling fans, stay comfortable. At this 42-unit condotel, there’s 24-hour security, cable TV and all the pleasures of home ... if your home happens to be just steps from the Caribbean. Yes, we know this is an RCI-affiliated time-share but happily that’s just a minor part of the operation. A new office/lobby and fitness center are under construction, and plans are for expansion to the temporary St. Matthews med school site, with more units and another pool. You don’t get this quality for peanuts. Rates start at US$200 off season for two people (though there are packages and some discounts available) and range up to US$375 for four people in high season, plus 7% hotel tax. Bottom line: Upscale two-bedroom condos on the water, great for families or two couples traveling together.

FOUR STARS Banana Beach, Coconut Drive, P.O. Box 94, San Pedro; tel. 501-226-3890, fax 226-3891; e-mail bananas@btl.net; www.bananabeach.com. This is one of our favorite places on the island. This condotel has just about everything to make your vacation a success ­ a genuinely friendly staff, spacious and smartly furnished one-bedroom suites and a setting on one of the island’s best beaches. The 35 one-bedroom units are in a single three-story building, designed in a style similar to Mexican hotels, around a courtyard with swimming pool, within watermelon seed spitting distance of the sea. We recommend you go for one of 14 seafront units, especially the second and third floor deluxe units on corners, which have fabulous views of the Caribbean and king beds. A little cheaper are the 12 ocean-view units and nine pool-view units. All units have kitchens, A/C, phones and color cable TV. The hotel can set you up with quality tours and diving. So successful has Banana Beach been that owner Tim Jeffers in 2002 is building another 28 units or so next door, along with another pool plus a restaurant and dive shop. Rates start around US$100 double a night off-season for a courtyard suite and go up to around US$175 for a deluxe seafront suite, including taxes, but there are many packages and discount deals, so contact the hotel for the latest offering. Book direct on the Internet, and you’ll probably get the best deal. Extended stays (four weeks and longer) drop the price down to as low as US$64 a night including taxes, and monthly rentals are even cheaper, under US$50 a day off-season. You can’t stay in a Hampton Inn in Podunkville, Indiana, for that. Bottom line: Great choice for value, service and a seafront vacation.

THREE STARS Mata Rocks, P.O. Box 47, San Pedro; tel. 888-628-2757 or 501-226-2336, fax 226-2349; e-mail matarocks@btl.net; www.matarocks.com. Mata Rocks is a small beachfront hotel with 11 rooms and two junior suites, just south of Banana Beach. With its stucco and wood exterior in a distinctive white, turquoise and purple paint scheme, Mata Rocks has a comfortable, relaxed feel. The beach bar hops, however, and if you want to pop into town, about 1 1/2 miles away, bikes are complimentary. All units have A/C and little fridges, and the junior suites have kitchenettes. In-season doubles US$120 for rooms and US$145 for suites. Summer rates US$85 to $96. Rates are plus tax but include continental breakfast. Bottom line: Relax in laidback surroundings on the beach.

(FOLLOWING ON NORTH AMBERGRIS ABOVE THE CUT)

THREE STARS PLUS Belizean Shores, P.O. Box 1, San Pedro; tel. 501-226-3000, fax 226-3003; e-mail mail@belizeanshores.com; www.belizeanshores.com. Like Coral Bay, this is a condo development by the Southwinds Realty folks. Belizean Shores, about 4 miles north of San Pedro, has 12 buildings, each with four units and all with sea views. The pool is a beaut, and huge, the beach is nice, and there’s a 350-foot pier. Rates US$125 to $145 double May through mid-December, US$145 to $165 in-season, plus tax. Bottom line: Agreeable new condo development.

THREE STARS SunDiver Beach Resort, tel. 877-297-8904 or 501-226-5018; e-mail sundiver@btl.net; www.sundiverbeachresort.com. This is a relaxed beach resort about 5 miles north of town. The 12 rooms and suites are comfortable but not deluxe, and some are a tight squeeze for the furniture. All have air conditioning and satellite TV with six channels. Restaurant, bar, swimming pool. Rates US$110 to $200 in-season, US$85 to $165 rest of year, including continental breakfast. Package deals and discounts are available which may reduce prices by 20% or more. Also, a weekly all-inclusive package of room, all meals and local beer, rum and soft drinks is available from US$800 per person based on double occupancy. SunDiver also manages units at Caye Villas (HHH +) and other properties, with rates around US$300 to $450. Bottom line: Relaxed, secluded small resort.

THREE STARS PLUS Playa Blanca Resort, San Pedro; tel. 501-226-5206; e-mail gaz@btl.net; www.playablancabelize.com. Run by Gary “Gaz” Cooper, an expatriate Brit and well-known dive operator in San Pedro, Playa Blanca is more a large private home (where everyone happens to dive or hang out on the beach) than a regular condotel. The piece de resistance is the penthouse, a 2,200 square-foot second-floor suite with three bedrooms and two baths and great views of the water; it also has access to a large patio and roof-top sunning area. This huge space, which goes for a whopping US$550 per night in-season and almost as much, US$495, May through mid-December, could be right for a family or a group of divers, as it sleeps 8 to 10. Available also are large one- bedroom (US$165 off-season, US$185 in-season) and huge 1,400 square-feet two-bedroom suites (US$225 off, US$250 on). Dive packages with Gaz Cooper’s dive operation also are available. There’s a beach bar and, by the time you read this, a pool, but no restaurant. As you are about 5 miles north of town, (a trip to town is free on the hotel’s boat if it’s going, otherwise it’s a US$10 water taxi ride one-way) this is not a place for those who want to try a different restaurant for every meal. There are six hotel restaurants within a half-hour walk, but it’s not as if you can pop next door for a burger when you get hungry. Bottom line: Off-the-beaten path condo suites in a beautiful waterfront setting.

Q. Got alot of valuable information from your site but have one question. Two
families are planning a trip the beginning of June to ambergris caye
staying at Xanadu. I have four kids age 7, 5, and two 2 year olds(almost
three) and the other family has a 13 and 7 year old. What medical
facilities are available on the caye, close by, or what precautions should
we take or arrangements should we make ahead of time. e are planning a
cave tubing trip for one of the days during the week of our stay. Do your
recommend other accomodations for families with small kids. Any
information your can provide will be GREATLY appreciated

Jerry Wagner


A. Health: The standards of health and hygiene on Ambergris Caye are high, similar to that of popular resort islands in the Caribbean. Not many visitors become ill from traveler's diseases or from drinking the water. While malaria, dengue fever and other tropical diseases are present in Belize, they are rare in San Pedro, and as a practical matter most visitors to Ambergris Caye don't get any special shots or take other precautions before they come. No shots are required for entry into Belize, except for yellow fever if you are coming from an infected area. However, it's always a good idea to keep tetanus-diphtheria, Hep A and B and other vaccinations up to date. Malaria prophylaxsis may be advised for mainland travel; it is highly advised if you are going to remote mainland areas in southern Belize or into Guatemala. Chloroquine, taken once a week, starting two weeks before arrival, is usually all you need in most of the region. Better be safe than sorry. Check with the U.S. Centers for Disease Control, tel. 404-332-4559 or visit www.cdc.gov, for the latest information. The biggest vacation-spoiler on Ambergris is probably sunburn. You're only 18 degrees of latitude north of the Equator, and the sub-tropical sun is much stronger than back home.

Medical: There are three medical clinics on the island and several physicians, nurses and a volunteer dentist resident here. Clinics: Lions Clinic, tel. 501-226-2073; Ambergris Health Services, tel. 501-226-2751; San Pedro Health Clinic, tel. 501-226-2536. Among the physicians are Dr. Otto Rodriguez (tel. 501-226-2854) and Dr. Lerida Rodriguez (tel. 501-226-3197, e-mail lerida@btl.net). Two small offshore medical schools are on Ambergris Caye: St. Matthews University and Medical University of the Americas. St. Matthews has about 185 students, and Medical University, which started in late 2001, has fewer than 50. (St Matthews is moving to the Cayman Islands in April/May 2002.) A number of dentists and private medical clinics are available in Belize City. Many serious problems can be treated at Karl Heusner Memorial Hospital in Belize City (Princess Margaret Dr., tel. 501-223-1548), a modern public hospital albeit one plagued by equipment problems and supply shortages. It’s hard to beat the rates, though ­ US$17.50 per day for a hospital room. Much more expensive but reputedly offering a higher standard of health care is a private hospital in Belize City, Belize Medical Associates (5791 St. Thomas St., Kings Park; tel. 501-223-0302; e-mail bzemedassoc@btl.com). Belize Medical Associates, an affiliate of South Miami Hospital, offers 24-hour emergency room care and has specialists on staff, including those in dermatology, general surgery, gynecology/obstetrics, internal medicine, orthopedic surgery, pediatrics, psychiatry and radiology. Those with even more serious or life-threatening problems may want to get care in Mexico, Guatemala or the U.S. Wings of Hope in Belize City (tel. 501-223-0078) can handle medevac.

Xanadu should be fine for kids.

--Lan

Q. Much of the info given on your website is quite outdated? Ex. it cost
$20 US to leave the country, taxies from Goldson Airport to BC is
$17, gas is $3/gal up, the VAT tax was removed some time ago and
replaced with 8% sales tax.

I really appreciate your excellent website.

Sharon Borgman


A. On our Website, we do not go back and update old articles, and many of the details in the old articles are now out of date or incorrect. Since ours is a free site, we don't have the incentive or the time to constantly update the hundreds of pages of archived articles on the site. One of these days we will devote a week or two to going through the site and discarding old information. The information in our current articles and in our current books is accurate as of the time of publication, to the best of our knowledge.

--Lan
Q. I have been reading some of your input on your website and from the forums at Fodors. If you don't mind i have a couple questions for you. I'm scheduling our Honeymoon for March of 2003 in Belize. I'm planning about 3 days in Turtle inn, in Placencia, if its open and rebuilt by then and about 6 days on Ambergris. Im searching for the best place to stay. We want some place with a pool, air conditioning, a beach, somewhat romantic would be good too. any suggestions? Thanks for your help
Chad Lincicome


A. If you want a full-service small resort, I'd look at Victoria House, Mata Chica and Portofino. All do a lot of honeymoon business, all are very nice (but not cheap) and have a romantic atmosphere. Of these, at present Victoria House is the only one with a swimming pool; all three have A/C.

If money is absolutely no object, you might look at Cayo Espanto, which has villas on a private island on the back side of Ambergris. The villas have small "splash pools" and A/C.

Perhaps not as romantic, but offering a lot of space and excellent value, are some of the condotels. Among the best of these are Villas at Banyan Bay, The Palms, Banana Beach and Belizean Shores. All of these have A/C and pools.

I'm told that the opening date for Turtle Inn is now December 15. They are making good progress on the resort and I would think they would make that deadline. I am told, though, that they do not plan to have A/C.

--Lan

Q. I am traveling to Belize next week with my two children and I was wondering if it is safe to drink the water as well as any local bottled drinks. You seem so very knowledgeable about the region and I figured I could get a straight honest answer. Thank you for your time and consideration.
Mary


A. Sure, in nearly all areas where a tourist is likely to go -- San Pedro, Cayo, Placencia, Belize City, Corozal, Punta Gorda -- the water is treated and fine to drink. Ice in drinks is okay also. In a few areas, including remote villages and also Caye Caulker, I recommend you drink bottled water. There also have been some problems with water quality recently in Hopkins and Dangriga.

In some coastal and caye areas, while the water is potable it may not taste too good or have a brackish smell.

For those who prefer it, bottled water is sold just about everywhere in Belize. The local Coca-Cola bottler also bottles purified water along with Coke, Fanta and other U.S.-style soft drinks.

In general, the standards of health and hygiene in Belize are quite high. There's no reason not to eat salads, fruit, etc. Even food from street vendors is almost always okay.

The best advice is to use common sense and to ask locally if in doubt. Your hotel will tell you if there's any problem with the water, as the manager doesn't want to have any sick guests on his/her hands.

--Lan

Q. My fiance and I are considering holding our wedding in Belize. We're
particularly smitten with the relative seclusion, nearby Mayan ruins and
birding and caving opportunities advertised at Ek' Tun, a B&B on the Macal
River (www.ektunbelize.com). However, with a wedding party between 20 to
25 people, Ek 'tun can't comfortably accommodate us all. (I expect that
we'll need at least a dozen private units, each of which can handle two
adults.)

Perhaps you know of a similar secluded residence in Belize equipped to
handle (& feed) our guests? Complete isolation isn't necessary, but we are
interested in a location that is more or less out of a developed area.

Any contact information you can provide for a wedding planner in Belize
(if one exists) would be helpful, too.

Thank you for your free expertise!

Julie Garrison



A. Ek'Tun is a great place, but it definitely wouldn't be able to handle a party of that size. Quite a few of the other lodges in Cayo could, however. The top ones, both quite expensive, would be Chaa Creek and Blancaneaux, the latter being in the Mountain Pine Ridge.

A step down but still very nice would be duPlooy's, Five Sisters (in the Pine Ridge), Hidden Valley Inn (now under new ownership and reopening this fall after some upgrades and adding a pool) and possibly Warrie Head. Also, closer to Belmopan are Banana Bank and Pook's Hill, though neither may have quite as many rooms as you need, and, if you need air conditioning, there's Jaguar Paw. Mopan River Resort is another good choice, though it's not really a jungle lodge and is close to Benque Viejo town.

In Northern Belize, there are two excellent lodges, both in remote areas -- Lamanai Outpost at Lamanai ruins and Chan Chich at Gallon Jug.

I would think all of these places can handle your group's food and drink needs. Chaa Creek, Lamanai Outpost, Chan Chich, Jaguar Paw, Mopan River, Blancaneaux, Five Sisters and Hidden Valley all have at least 12 cabanas. The others would be close but may not have quite enough cabanas or private rooms.

--Lan

Q. What can you tell me about Blancaneaux?

Terry Warburton


A. I've stayed at Blancaneaux three or four times, most recently about three weeks ago.

The villas (USS$300+ a day) are fantastic, two big bedrooms with 20-foot high thatch ceilings, two Japanese-style baths, big living/kitchen area (open to the outside). The regular cabanas are okay but far less interesting, just a bedroom and bath with a deck.

The grounds are beautifully landscaped, and the manager, Anne Wood, has done a good job in disguising the problems with the pines due to the pine beetlees. This time of year, it's a bit hot and humid even in the Pine Ridge, though less so than around your place, but you can take a dip in the river/swimming area or suck up some beers in the bar, which has slate carvings by the Garcia sisters and wine from Francis's vineyards.

The restaurant is expensive but pretty good. Figure US$30 a head for dinner.

Lots to do in the Pine Ridge, of course -- plenty of waterfalls, trips to Caracol, etc.

All in all it's a fine place, but I think Ek'Tun (you've been there, right?) is also great -- the pool in particular.

Five Sisters, just down the road from Blancaneaux, is also a great place for a beer or a light meal.

--Lan

Q. We are planning a trip-7/10 days to Belize in Jan.. and I am confused on where the best places to visit are-there will be 4 of us and 2 are divers and they will get that out of the way the first 3 days-the other 2 of us will join them after 3 days for an additional 7 days and we do all the other stuff-swim, snorkel, hike, bird watching, etc. and I am confused as to where to begin the itinerary and should we use a travel agent here or there?
Cindy Crawford, Morristown , N.J.


A. The best diving in Belize is around the atolls -- Turneffe, Lighthouse and Glovers -- but these are far off the coast and the only accommodations are in remote dive and fishing lodges, with nothing else to do -- no shops, tours, or anything except diving and other water sports.

It sounds like your group would be best off staying in San Pedro (Ambergris Caye). The diving right around Ambergris is only good recreational diving, but you can do day dive trips to both Turneffe and Lighthouse atolls from San Pedro (Glovers is too far away). Ambergris Caye has Belize's best selection of hotels, restaurants, clubs, etc. and also from here it is possible to do day tours of the mainland to see ruins, wildlife and so on.

You can arrange all tours, dive trips, etc. after you arrive. In general for Belize it's easy to book your own hotels, air and other arrangements, and you may save a little money by booking hotels direct as compared with going with an agent. If you want a knowledgeable agent, you might get in touch with Katie Valk at Maya Travel in Belize City (info@belize-trips.com) or Barb's Belize in Texas.

--Lan


Q. We have two big questions -- the first is about lodging. We have narrowed our lodging choices to Ek'tun, Chaa Creek and DuPlooy's. DuPlooy's is cheaper than the other two. Ek'tun sounds so wonderful, do you feel that it's worth the additional $$? I suspect that, including food and tours, Chaa Creek would be equally or even more costly than Ek'tun, but I'd love to hear your thoughts.

The other question we're trying to work out is regarding transfers. Doing research on resort websites, I'm finding that transfers between the airport at Belize City and the resorts are around US$140. My guidebook is telling me that we could take a bus to San Ignacio for around $3, and then get transport from there to any resort for around $20-$30. So why are these transfers so expensive? Is it worth the extra $$ for two hearty people? Similarly, we are facing the same questions with regard to transport to Tikal. Resort-organized trips are upwards of $300 per person, but it seems that we could do this more cheaply on our own. On the other hand, if it's a lot of trouble to get to Tikal on our own steam, it may be worth the extra cost. Do you have any thoughts on this?


A. Although some things have changed at Ek'Tun since I stayed there last year -- Phyllis Dart and her husband, Ken, who together did just about everything at the lodge, have split up, and Phyllis is running things now, with some hired help -- Ek'Tun really is a terrific place. Beautiful setting, best swimming pool in Belize (a natural mineral pool in a quiet location where you can swim and listen to the howler monkeys). Any of the three places you are considering would be good, but even with the changes I might give Ek'Tun the edge, unless you are looking for more luxury and a more sociable atmosphere, in which case I would go to Chaa Creek.

On transportation to Cayo, this a common question, and the answer really just depends on how much you want to trade off convenience versus cost. There are three basic ways to get to Cayo: Use the hotel's transfer (the most expensive but the most convenient); by shuttle van operated by places like Aguada Hotel (about US$25-30 per person, and you'll usually still need to take a taxi or pay extra to be taken to the lodges); and by bus (now about US$4) and then taxi to the lodge. The same is true for travel to Tikal -- you can do it all by public transport which is cheap but quite a hassle, or you can day a trip (day trips are US$75-$85 or so per person as organized by one of the lodges or larger hotel operators, more for overnight, with slightly lower prices from independent operators, some of whom can be contacted at Eva's restaurant) or some combination -- e.g. bus to the border, then hire a taxi or shuttle van in Guatemala. Again, it's a matter of convenience versus cost, but in this case there is the additional concern for safety. Also, very little English is spoken in Guatemala, and that could be a factor for some. Given the occasionally unstable situation in Guatemala, you may want to go with a reputable Belize tour operator. That doesn't necessarily guarantee a trouble-free trip, and some argue that you're more likely to be bothered if you are in a tourist van than on a local bus, but on balance I'd rather be with an experienced Belizean driver who does the trip regularly with American visitors.

--Lan

Q. My husband and I are retired 73/61 years old. We would like to visit
your lovely place but need your suggestions. We are not really active as
far as physical activities, but we are not elderly by any means. We had
a home in old mexico for many years and it sat right on the beach so we
don't really need a place on the water. I feel that I would rather put
more money towards all of the tours, trips, etc.
Do we go for a complete package or do we just get the best airfare and
book our own room? I am into some message sites so I am getting the feel
for the place as to how far it is into town from one end to the other. I
feel that we would enjoy being right in San Pedro so that we can walk to
a place to eat as that is what my husband would enjoy most along with
all the activity. Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks for your time and trouble. OH by the way, this would be for this
coming January as that is our 25th anniversary.

Gay


A. You mention San Pedro, Ambergris Caye. While that's a great destination, there is of course much more to Belize than just this one small island. You may want to spend at least part of your time on the mainland, say in Cayo District (Western Belize) or in the Hopkins area (southern coast) or even in Corozal Town, which is off-the-beaten path, very inexpensive and pleasant in northern Belize, next door to Chetumal, Mexico.

In general, in Belize you don't need to do a package, and in many cases you will actually save money by booking things yourself direct, especially via the Internet.

On Ambergris Caye, nearly all hotels are on the water. You can get a moderately priced place and still enjoy the breezes and view by being on the water. Among the moderately priced, good-value places in or near town are Mayan Princess (one bedroom efficiency suites), Lili's, Rubie's, Seven Seas, Holiday Hotel and Coconuts (south of town, a bit of a walk). Keep in mind that if you are coming off-season there are all kinds of deals and discounts available.

--Lan

Q. I was given your name & e-mail address by Paul Pollard, a good
friend of mine from church, who grew up in Belize. My fiance & I are trying
to plan a honeymoon trip to Belize in Dec 2002. We must travel as economically as possible, so Paul
suggested you had "all the answers." We have already realized that we must
get our plane reservations asap, as the "cheap seats" are almost gone. We
are trying on expedia.com, or American Airlines. We have found a package
deal on Luxury Link for a 7 night stay at Jaguar Reef Lodge. (You can view
it on their website if you wish, it is the Honeymoon Expedition which
includes a choice of side trips, food, etc. etc. Our travel agent also has
a 5 night package at Journeys Inn on Ambergris Caye, but we were told it
isn't as great as it used to be, and that Mata Chica was better.......what
do you think?

My question to you is, can you give us any feed back on Jaguar Reef Lodge,
or anything that can help us make up our minds. We prefer a quiet,
laid-back, on the water atmosphere, as opposed to the wild night life
scene. Would we be better off without a package deal & just get a neat
place to stay & pay for our own day-trips & food? We would appreciate a
reply soon as Keith is leaving for a medical mission trip to Zambia on the
4th & will not return until the 21st. So we feel like we need to pin
something down if possible before then.

We do so appreciate any help you can give us. We really hope that we can
work something out. This will be a trip of a lifetime!!!!!!

Rita Hickey & Keith Morgan



A. A couple of points: First, on air fares there is no rhyme or reason as to pricing to Belize. Often, the cheapest fares are available very close to departure dates. However, since you going during prime time in the Western Caribbean, it probably is a good idea to book now. I'd suggest you talk to Barbara at Barb's Belize, who is a travel agent in Texas who specializes in Belize and can probably get about the lowest fares to Belize -- E-Mail - escape@BarbsBelize.com or call 888-321-BARB (2272). Or you could contact Katie Valk, an American who is a travel agent living in Belize City -- she knows the country from top to bottom. E-mail info@belize-trips.com.

In general in Belize there usually is no advantage to booking a package. You may want to book direct or go through an agent like Barbaba or Katie. (Sometimes you will get a lower price booking direct over the Internet.)

There's nothing wrong with Jaguar Reef, but if you want to stay in Hopkins you might also look at Hamanasi, which is newer and I think a little nicer than Jaguar Reef.

The two places you are looking at on Ambergris Caye, Mata Chica and Journey's End, are very different. Journey's End is a mid-market, large (for Belize) resort and Mata Chica is an upscale small personalty place. Without knowing what your budget is or what you are really interested in, it's impossible to suggest a specific place. In general, some of the top places on Ambergris, popular with honeymooners, are Victoria House, Mata Chica and Portofino but there are also a number of wonderful less expensive places, including some great "condotels" that offer value and extra space such as Belizean Shores, The Palms, Banana Beach, Xanadu, Belizean Reef and others.

--Lan


Q. I must say I enjoyed reading Belize First. I found it
very informative. My wife and I are planning a 10 day
trip to Belize starting August 19. We have 5 days
planned in Placencia at the Green Parrot and another 5
at EK TUN. Although we are aware of the events and
some conditions from Iris, it seems as if the most
folks are vague as to the conditions as they exist
today. I'm hoping to get a clear picture as to what we
can expect when we stay in Placencia with respect to
tours, dining etc. It would be very helpful if you
might be able to share any info or thoughts ..or
suggestions for that matter you might have.
Shawn