WHERE TO EAT

Ambergris Caye has Belize's widest selection of restaurants of interest to visitors, ranging from inexpensive local spots and pizza joints to a couple that will have you reaching for your Platinum Amex. The emphasis is on seafood, of course, but many restaurants also serve chicken and pork. Lobster is usually the most-expensive item on the menu (in-season mid-June to mid-February), at around US$20. Pasta and Mexican-style dishes also are popular. After all that pricey seafood, an honest plate of Belizean beans and rice will taste real good. Dress is very casual, even at the spiffy places.

Price ranges shown are for typical meals for one (usually dinner), not including tip, tax or alcoholic drinks, or tax.

Inexpensive, under US$5

Moderate, US$6-$15

Expensive, US$16-30

Very Expensive, over US$30

In-Town and Nearby:

The late lamented Rasta Pasta is now an Itialian restaurant, Caruso's

Rubie's (or Ruby's), Barrier Reef Drive, tel. 501-2-62063. Fine spot for casual breakfast or light snacks. Opens early around 6 a.m. and usually stays open until about dark, or 6 p.m. Inexpensive.

Celi's Restaurant, San Pedro Holiday Hotel, Barrier Reef Drive, San Pedro, tel. 501-2-62014. Celi's, on the beach side of the Holiday Hotel, is one of San Pedro's best choices for seafood. The catch of the day is around US$10, broiled, fried or stuffed, and comes with a side order such as fries, beans and rice or cole slaw. Most other entrees are around US$8 to $12. Kids will like the fish or chicken fingers, burgers and fresh juice drinks (watermelon, lime, orange, pineapple). Open for dinner. Moderate to Expensive. Celi's Deli (Inexpensive), for quick snacks and sandwiches, is nearby.

Elvi's Kitchen, Pescador Drive, tel. 501-2-62176, fax 2-63056. Yes, it's a little touristy, and yes, the waiters are a little hyper, and, yes, it's a little more expensive than some, but Elvi's does a fine job with fish and just about everything. We always enjoy our meals here. The sand floor and the living frangipangi tree around which the main dining room is built add atmosphere. Open for lunch and dinner. Moderate to Expensive.

Caliente. Run by Elvi's daughter, this newish spot is getting attention from locals and visitors alike. Try it! Moderate.

The Reef, Pescador Drive, tel. 501-2-63212. This spot gets our vote, and that of many BELIZE FIRST readers, for the best restaurant value on the island. It serves tasty Belizean fare in large portions at small prices. Open for lunch and dinner. Moderate.

Fido's, Barrier Reef Drive, 501-26-3714. Popular, centrally located spot for a quick bite or beer. Moderate.

Cannibals, Barrier Reef Drive, 501-26-3706. North American comfort food like burgers, ribs, potato boats. Good spot for breakfast. Moderate.

Estelle's-by-the-Sea Good location in town on the water with a variety of menu items including seafood and burgers. Opens early, closed Tuesdays. Moderate.

Jambel's Jerk Pit. Might not be a stand-out if it were in Jamaica, but it is in San Pedro. Tasty, spicey jerk chicken, shrimp and other Jamaican-inspired dishes. Near Big Daddy's, in the middle of town. Moderate.

Jade Garden, Coconut Drive, tel. 501-2-62506. This is the place for Chinese food on Ambergris Caye, but it's also serves good seafood and other items in a very pleasant setting. It's located south of town near the Belize Yacht Club and Changes in Latitude. Moderate.

El Patio, Coconut Drive, tel. 501-26-63063. A little more upmarket than most Ambergris Caye restaurants, El Patio near Caribbean Villas at Rock's II is a good spot for fish and a Mexican song or two. Moderate to Expensive.

Sea Grille, Tropica Resort, tel. 501-262701. A little pricey, but not bad for a quiet dinner. Good breakfast spot, too, for those on the South End. Moderate to Expensive.

Tropical Takeout has Belizean-American dishes at low prices. Inexpensive.

La Popular Bakery. Best baked stuff on the island. Two locations. Inexpensive.

Los Cocos, cheap Belizean-Mexican items like stew chicken and pork chops. The atmosphere is pretty low rent but the food more than makes up for it. Mmmm, it's good! Inexpensive to Moderate.

Papi's Diner. Another great find,in the budget end, at the north end of San Pedro near the channel, with delicious soups, chicken and fish. Moderate.

BC's. One of the island's most popular barbecue spots on the island. On the water just south of SunBreeze. Moderate.

Various street vendors on Front Street, (Belizean-American/Mexican, Barbeque) are cheap, good and safe to eat. Also try the Lion's Club Barbecue.

North Ambergris

Capricorn, tel. 501-2-62809. Everybody but everybody raves about the food here. This attractive restaurant on the beach opened in 1996. It can be reached via the golf cart path or by water taxi. Expensive to Very Expensive.

Sweet Basil Café and Wine & Cheese Shoppe, Tres Cocos area, tel 501-2-63870, fax 2-63869, e-mail maryellenstevens@rocketmail.com. As you hike or drive your golf cart north, it's a surprise to find this little "shoppe" in a two-story house beside the cart path, about one-quarter mile north of the Cut. Small, pricey but interesting selection of imported cheeses, wines and patés, plus deli sandwiches. Get your picnic lunches here. Same ownership as Little Italy restaurant in San Pedro Town. Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Mondays. Moderate/Expensive.

Mambo, Mata Chica Beach Resort, tel. 501-2-13010. Wow! You'd never have thought Ambergris Caye would get this kind of place, which opened in late 1997. It's designed to the hilt - even the menus show hours of design time. There are only a few menu items, however, mostly Italian, some seafood, and an excellent filet mignon (the beef is imported). Bring plenty of money or plastic. We paid US$80 for three entrees at lunch here (and all we got were the entrees, no bread or salad or side dishes) plus two beers, one glass of wine, and one deliciously rich chocolate mousse desert. Locals describe it as the place to go for an anniversary dinner. Open for lunch and dinner. Advance reservations requested. The hotel offers a free or reduced price boat service to the restaurant from town. Very Expensive.

Rendezvous. Next door to Journey's End. Thai-French fusion in a pleasant setting. This place, run by expats who lived in Southeast Asia and elsewhere, has rapidly become (with Capricorn) one of the top two restaurants on the island, if not in all of Belize. Delicious! The restaurant even makes its own wines (from imported grape juice.) Expensive to Very Expensive.

NIGHT LIFE

San Pedro is not exactly a party town, although some residents and visitors tend to be hard drinkers. Nightlife usually consists of drinks and dinner at a local restaurant, with perhaps a later visit to one of the "clubs" or hotel beach bars.

Big Daddy's is probably the hottest spot on the island, and things sometimes go late and loud here. Across the street, Tarzan's hops, too, especially toward the weekend. The real action at these spots often doesn't get started until midnight. If you want to get down and get loud, get to the Barefoot Igauna south of town. Several hotels have busy beach bars, including the Pier Lounge at the Spindrift (home of the chicken drop), Coconuts, Ramon's and Exotic Caye/Playador.

If, after a long day in the sun, you're too pooped to pop a Belikin, you'll be glad to know that many of the island's hotels have cable TV, with about the same channels as you'd get in the U.S.

GROCERIES

For a fix-it-yourself meal, head to one of the groceries. Island Grocery south of town is the biggest, but Rock's II in that same area also has a good selection. The original Rock's in town and San Pedro Supermarket at north end of town are handy, too. Don't expect a Publix or Harris-Teeter, but most items you'll need are available, at a price (often 50 to 100% more than in the U.S.) The groceries sells beer, booze and some wines, but for the cheapest deal on Belikin have the local Bowen warehouse bring you case.