* Just returned from a 12 day trip to Belize (Ambergris Caye and Cayo district). Wanted to write and tell you how much help you were in assisting us in planning our trip. EVERYTHING went well. It was a wonderful trip and we had a great time. We had to come back home (Oregon and St. Louis) to rest!!! We stayed at Paradise Villas on Ambergris Caye ( Caye Management, unit 22B) and it was VERY nice. The grounds are lovely and I will be happy to recommend it to anyone. It was one of three choices we were contemplating prior to booking and as it turns out we were so happy with that choice. Another of our choices was Coral Bay Villas (nice complex but not as nice location) and Belizean Shores (way too far up north). We loved being close to town and the grocery stores and restaurants. The golf carts were a blast. In Cayo we stayed at AGUADA HOTEL. Can't say enough about that place. Bill and Kathy were WONDERFUL. Lenny was so helpful and although the rooms are not luxurious, they are totally adequate for all needs. Who spends time in the room anyway. The food in the restaurant was the best in Cayo!!! The mainland part of our vacation wore us out. They kept us hopping. Did Caracol, the Ultimate Jungle Experience and Tikal, as well as cave tubing at Jaguar Paw. The local pet monkey wrapped herself around our necks and it was wonderful. Lynn Wagoner, Portland, Oregon, November 2002

... My name is Lana Spillane, and I just returned from a trip to Belize with Carol Lynn Wagoner. I feel even more needs to be said about Lenny Wragg and the AGUADA HOTEL. Bill Butcher, the owner, asked for feedback on every trip we took. Lenny followed up on every trip. All of the guides obtained for us by Lenny were fantastic. We went into Guatemala, to Tikal, and we felt completely safe with our guide, Caesar. Unlike Lynn, I refuse to say the jungle trips wore me out! I love to hike, and even though the Ultimate Jungle experience lasted too long into the night due to the truck getting stuck in the mud, it was still worth it. My husband did not go with us on this trip, but since I loved Belize so much and now realize all of the trips I did not get to take this time, I am planning a trip in the near future with him. I just hope the Aguada does not get so popular that there will be no room for me when I get back there again! Like Lynn said, Unit 22B of Paradise Villas, handled by Caye Management, was fantastic. Clean, air-conditioned, with a wonderful breeze, close to everything! I also highly recommend that.
Lana Spillane, St. Louis, November 2002

* Our much much too short trip to Belize and Guatemala started in San Ignacio. We stayed at PARROT NEST (about 3 miles from San Ignacio) and have nothing but good things to say about the place. The owners are incredibly friendly and helpful sources of information. We stayed in a childhood fantasy-like treehouse, spent lots of time reading in hammocks, and swam in the Mopan River (which the lodge overlooks). The food was great, as was the atmosphere. Treehouse doubles are US30. One thing I absolutely would not miss while in San Ignacio is the Actul Tunichil Muknal cave tour. It was amazing, easily the coolest thing I've done. It's a full day cave tour, much of which is spent swim/walking through water in a spectacular cave about an hour or so from San Ignacio. The cost may seem high (US$65 -- it was definitely our big splurge) but it is honestly worth every cent. Evisch, August 2002

* We have just returned from our 4th trip to Belize. I have just received Lan Sluder's latest, San Pedro Cool, I have used your books exclusively to plan our trips with excellent results. We have visted San Pedro, spent a week on Glovers reef in 1998 and last October went to Hamanasi. All were wonderful vacations and the people were great. This time we went to the MOPAN RIVER RESORT. I can not tell you how
pleased we were with the resort and the trips they run. Tikal was beyond my
comprehension. Pamella and Jay are number ONE in our book. It was just perfect
right down to Jay regaling us with his stories just like you said he would. Thanks to your publication. Bill and Diane Kaintz, Zionsville, Pennsylvania, April 2002

* We stayed at a lodge called the RIVERSIDE LODGE (www.RiversideLodgeBelize.com) just three miles out of San Ignacio (headed towards Bullet Tree Falls) we ended up staying there purely by accident as we went out with a real estate agent looking at property in this area. The owner of the lodge is a guy by the name of Fred Warrior (Belizean born, raised in Los Angeles). He decided to buy property back in his "homeland" several years ago and has been slowly building up the property since. We had looked at staying at the Clarissa Falls resort, however for half the price of the Clarissa Falls resort (US$40 a night at the Riverside Lodge) we ended-up making this our "headquarters" for about six days. Daniel & Aimee DHondt, Newberg, Oregon, February 2002

* EK' TUN LODGE (12 miles upriver from San Ignacio on the Macal River, e-mail info@ektunbelize.com, www.ektunbelize.com). Pool, glorious pool. The pool’s the thing. My kingdom for a pool like this. Even the Bard would run shy of words to paint the swimming pool at Ek ‘Tun. Imagine water as blue as a sapphire, like the waters of the Blue Hole on the Hummingbird Highway. Imagine the water coming clean and pure and cool from a natural spring. Imagine a pool constructed not of concrete but of limestone and other natural materials of Belize. Then imagine the pool set in a profusion of tropical flowers and palms. And imagine that most of the time you can enjoy the pool alone, with only the sound of howler monkeys for company. That just begins to describe the glory of the pool Ken and Phyllis Dart have built at Ek’Tun. My daughter, Rose, proclaims this the best pool in Belize, and she has swum in many of them. This pool is in many ways a symbol of what’s best about Ek’Tun. Not to put to much of a New Age edge on it, but Ek ‘Tun is a private, quiet oasis of peace in a setting of wild beauty. There are only two cabanas, set well apart, each of good size, and each with a loft. One has cohune thatch, and the other bay palm. Maya mounds are all around the grounds, which the Darts (Phyllis was formerly in landscaping) have planted with a remarkable array of trees and flowers. The cabanas have hot and cold water, perfectly drinkable from the tap, delivered by a ecologically friendly system involving a “ram” pump that runs, in virtually perpetual motion, without any source of power other than that of the water itself. By choice, Phyllis and Ken light the candles by kerosene lanterns, though other parts of the lodge have electricity supplied mostly through a solar system. Meals are wholesome and delicious, usually prepared by Phyllis herself, and served family style. Unlike many lodges, Ek ‘Tun does not have a large staff. Ken and Phyllis, who have been in Belize since 1988 and are now Belize citizens, do most everything themselves, like the owners of a small, albeit remote, bed and breakfast. The lodge sits on 200 acres on the “far side” of the Macal River (the Darts are buying another 800 acres or so on the road side of the Macal, to protect against encroachment.) Ken meets guests in a small skiff, putt-putting them upriver a few hundred yards to the lodge landing. A variety of activities are available (many for an extra fee), including horseback riding, canoeing and trips to various Cayo sites and also to Tikal. As wonderful as it is, Ek ‘Tun is not for everyone. The B&B atmosphere wouldn’t suit those who yearn for privacy or a convivial crowd, and the grounds, while beautiful, have steep climbs and sometimes muddy walks, not suitable for those who like to stroll on flat sidewalks. Rates are a reasonable value, at US$217 double including breakfast and dinner, but extras for lunch, activities, trips and drinks can quickly add up. Lan Sluder, July 2001

(Update) THE LODGE AT CHAA CREEK (tel. 501-9-22037, fax 9-22501, e-mail chaacreek@btl.net, www.chaacreek.com). The “Queen of Jungle Lodges” -- in Martha Gellhorn’s phrase -- is still as royal as ever. Mick Fleming, who just returned from Cambodia, Singapore and Sarawak, and Lucy Fleming, and their staff of more than 70, keep Chaa Creek purring like a finely tuned classic Jaguar motorcar. Everything works smoothly, and the grounds and facilities, including the new Conference Centre, look great. Chaa Creek’s Natural History Centre and Blue Morpho Butterfly Farm (admission US$5, free to Chaa Creek guests) continues to improve. Hundreds of Blue Morphos were flying in the butterfly cage, and the country’s “first natural history museum” has added several new exhibits. Mick’s new thing is a Maya farm and village which he is creating, with help from Maya families from Toledo, on about 30 acres near the main lodge property. This is still a work in progress, but the idea is to showcase traditional Maya cultures in an accessible location. Already, a Maya family from San José in Toledo has started a milpa, and a small cacao plantation has been established on the site where wild cacao trees grow. Not surprisingly, there has been some local criticism of this new project. Some say it amounts to creating a “Maya zoo” for tourists, and others wonder why Maya from Toledo have been brought in, when there are large populations of Maya already in Cayo. My own opinion is that I’m glad to see a new effort to expose the wonders of Maya culture to a wider audience. Since the early 1980s, Mick and Lucy Fleming have done perhaps more than anyone else to bring a variety of high-quality tourist attractions and facilities to western Belize, creating millions of dollars in annual economic benefit to the region, and I see this as another example of innovative development. I doubt if even one in 50 visitors to Belize now gets a chance to see contemporary Maya life up close. If Chaa Creek’s efforts educates more visitors about Maya life, I think it will be a positive thing. This visit, my family and I were lucky enough to have the honeymoon luxury jacuzzi suite, actually a double suite with the garden suite (US$295 now, US$365 in the coming high season, plus 7% tax and 10% service.) We’re not used to this level of accommodation, and our mouths dropped open at the acres of space and beautiful furnishings in the suite. It rivals Blancaneaux’s villas for luxury in the bush. We’re pleased to note, by the way, that Chaa Creek has abandoned its swishy nom de plume,“Chaa Creek Resort and Spa,” and is now calling itself The Lodge at Chaa Creek. If the Lodge at Chaa Creek targets baby boomers looking for a little creature comforts with their jungle adventure, Chaa Creek’s Macal River Jungle Camp attracts a fitter, hipper , more budget minded crowd. The Spa at Chaa Creek is still alive and well, easily the most professional and comprehensive spa in Belize. The Lodge at Chaa Creek also recently won an eco tourism award from Islands Magazine and the Caribbean Tourism Organization. Lan Sluder, August 2001

* We visited Belize from January 3-13, 2001. We did the
"surf & turf" vacation (or, more accurately, the turf & surf vacation,
since we went inland first). For the first 5 nights, we stayed at the
AGUADA, in Santa Elena. Bill, the Aguada's owner, picked us up at the
airport, charging us US$25 each to drive us to Santa Elena, which is located
in Cayo, right next to San Ignacio. Bill is an American expatriate, from
Delaware via New York. He runs the place along with his wife, Kathy (a
native Belizian), their daughter, Shaaloo (sp?), their granddaughter, Tarun
(about 5 years old, and very precocious in a wonderful way), and Lenny, a
British gent who arranges the tours and bookings. If you correspond by
e-mail with the Aguada, it will probably be with Lenny (aguada@btl.net;
http://www.belizex.com/aguada.htm).

We recommend the Aguada as a clean, inexpensive, hospitable, all-around
nice place to stay. It's far enough from San Ignacio to avoid the noise
and clutter, yet S.I. is only a 20 minute walk away. The rooms are simple
but good-sized. Our biggest complaint concerned our mattress, which was
not particularly firm.

We ate most meals at the Aguada's restaurant, although we did not purchase
a package (we recommend considering the package, as discussed in greater
detail below). The food ranged from good to excellent, and was very
reasonably priced. Kariane particularly enjoyed the "small" (actually
quite large) seafood platter when Bill personally supervised its
preparation. (When ordered a second time, without Bill's supervision, the
same plate was good, but not as fantastic.) As Bill pointed out, one
should expect the same quality seafood in Cayo as that served on the cayes,
since the same fishermen sell the food to all parties. We had good seafood
in both locations.

While in Cayo, we went on a variety of tours one per day, four in
total. Three of these tours went well. The fourth, to Tikal, was a huge
disappointment. All these tours were arranged through Lenny. We didn't
negotiate the prices, which (we later learned) were as much as
US$10/person/tour more than we could have purchased directly. Those persons
who purchased full packages (lodging, food, and tours) through the Aguada
probably got better deals. Moreover, we don't begrudge the Aguada a
commission on arranging these tours, since they do closely monitor the tour
providers, attempting to ensure the highest quality experiences for their
guests.

The first tour we took was to Barton Creek Cave. Our guide was Omar, who
did a fine job. The cave is an old limestone structure that had been used
by Mayans for ceremonial purposes. We entered the cave by canoe, each
armed with a light powered by a car battery. We enjoyed the peacefulness
of the cave, the limestone formations, and the relics. We also appreciated
Omar's clear concern for maintaining the cave against damage caused by
tourists.

Our second day, we went on the ill-fated Tikal tour. The tour company was
"Windy Hill." The trip was billed as a full-day trip to Tikal, at a price
of US$80 per person (plus $10 per person Belizian exit fees). We were picked
up, a bit late, at the Aguada, along with two other guests. We were then
taken to Windy Hill Lodge, waited another 20 minutes or so, then left in a
second van for the Guatemalan border. Once there, the other couple
realized that they had left a bag, containing their passports, at Windy
Hill Lodge (they were very apologetic). So we waited at the border
crossing for about 45 minutes while our driver took them back to get the
passports. This time they arrived with another passenger, Cesar, who would
be our guide at Tikal. By the time we got to Tikal, it was about 11
am. This is when we learned that our tour would last for only 2.5
hours. This was, we should be clear, on orders from our driver,
Jose orders he probably got from Windy Hill. Cesar would have been happy
to provide a longer tour.

The actual tour was fine, while it lasted. Cesar was a good guide. We saw
most of the main structures. And, for those folks who enjoy Mayan ruins,
Tikal is certainly a highlight. It's just as impressive as Chichen Itza,
and much less touristy. At 1:30 pm, we returned to the entrance and had a
quick lunch at a restaurant across the street. We recommend the beef over
the chicken. After lunch, we were taken back to the Aguada.

One final item about this tour. Bill asked us about the trip when we
returned, and we told him the above. He immediately called Windy Hill to
register his disappointment. Later, Lenny asked us how it went and he,
too, was ready to call Windy Hill until we told him that Bill beat him to
it. The Aguada guests who went on the Windy Hill Tikal tour the next day
told us that they had a great time and were there for a full day (5 - 5.5
hours).

This involvement and oversight by Bill and his gang is typical of the
Aguada, which is probably the main reason why we recommend the place. We
felt that our hosts genuinely cared about our enjoyment of our stay, and
they were always considerate.

The next two tours went much better. The third day, we went to Caracol,
again with Omar as our guide. The trip there was more than 2 hours, some
of it over a very muddy road. Omar is an expert 4-wheel driver, at one
point helping another 4-wheel drive tour vehicle that got stuck. We very
much liked Caracol, which is another huge Mayan city but differs from Tikal
and Chichen Itza in that it's in the very early stages of
excavation. Moreover, since there is not yet a good road to Caracol, very
few people visit the site. When we were there, the parking lot had only 4
vehicles! We enjoyed viewing and visiting the structures all by our
lonesome. Unfortunately, the Belizian government plans to build a paved
road to Caracol, so the Disneylandization of the place is really just a
matter of time.

On the way back from Caracol, we stopped at two other sites: the Rio Frio
Cave and the Rio On Pools. Both are worth the detour, but the Cave is only
a 15-minute stop (it's relatively small and it's actually a natural
tunnel, rather than a cave).

On our fourth day, we took the "Ultimate Jungle Tour," led by Aaron . Aaron is one of only 3 people licensed by the Belizian government
to lead this tour, which clearly helps keep the traffic down. The tour
begins with a long car ride on a dirt road. For us, this ride may have
seemed longer than it was, because the second car broke down and 15 of us
were crammed into a single Range Rover (btw, the 13 guests plus 2 guides
set Aaron's record his tours usually have only about 4 guests per
visit). Upon arriving at our destination, we embarked on an hour-long walk
though the jungle, crossing a stream 3 times along the way. We then came
upon an encampment that had been built by archaeologists who continue to
explore the cave during parts of the year (Aaron works with the
archaeologists, which is why he has access to the cave). We ate lunch at
the encampment, then donned miners' helmets (complete with lights), and
headed down to the cave's entrance. This cave continues for several miles (7 maybe we forget), but our tour
took us "only" one mile in. For most of the trip, we followed the same
stream that we had earlier crossed. The spelunking involved swimming at
times, wading at times, and climbing at times. After about 1.5 hours, we
reached the cave's main area, where the Mayans conducted their
ceremonies. We climbed onto a platform, removed our soggy shoes, and
continued barefoot into the ruins. Here, we observed undisturbed pottery
and skeletal remains. The uniqueness of this tour, in addition to the
rigor of spelunking, was largely due to the experience of being able to
(trusted to) carefully walk among these amazing artifacts. Aaron, because
of his work with the archaeologists, was very knowledgeable and respectful
of both the cave and the ruins. He also did a good job emphasizing the
importance of each of us helping one another through the cave. If anyone who reads this decides to take this tour (which we do recommend),
please wear appropriate (high-traction) shoes. One woman on our tour (the
person least in shape, btw), wore Birkenstocks. She was a danger to
herself and to the rest of us (Aaron told us that he would not have taken
her on the tour had he noticed her shoes before we entered the cave).Kariane & Kevin, January 2001.

* We stayed at the AGUADA HOTEL in Santa Elena. This hotel is a great place to stay. The owners, Bill and Cathie Butcher, welcome everyone as if they were family and the rooms are very clean and comfortable with optional A/C. We paid only US$27.75 per night for a double room, including tax, which I feel was very reasonable, even for the off season. They also have a lovely pool and a garden frequented by iguanas and many bird species. A nice touch is that they met us at the airport in Belize City with a cool drink (they called it an “Aguada Colada”) and a really posh Mercedes van. The transfer cost was US$25 each, which we found much better than relying on the bus or the expense of a taxi all the way to the Cayo. The manager, Lenny Wragg, was wonderful about arranging anything we needed, whether it was a rental 4x4 or a tour of any of the area’s many attractions. He arranged a wonderful caving experience called the “Ultimate Jungle Tour” that was absolutely amazing for US$75 each. We found the food at the Aguada to be very good and reasonably priced. You can get a nice breakfast for US$4 and a good steak or seafood dinner for about US$7.50. Another thing that I liked about the Aguada was that it was very quiet. It is within 5 minutes of downtown San Ignacio which is just across the river, but it is out of the hubbub of the noisy bars and roosters crowing. Susan Shaffer, Kenai, Alaska, 2000

* My first trip to Belize was March 2-10, 1999 - and I didn't want to leave! Our TACA flight arrived at 9:55 a.m. and a driver was waiting to take us to our first destination, CAESAR'S PLACE. Our driver, Ramon, was a wealth of information, pointing out sights of interest on the beautiful drive to Cayo. Airport shuttle was US$30 per person. On arrival at Caesar's we were shown to a beautiful, large cottage type room with large private bath (US$50) double. We were greeted by Caesar, and served a fantastic homemade pizza with salad US$4 , fresh limeade included. Caesar asked if we would like a tour, and we then visited Cahal Pech. At the site we were treated to a private tour by Otto, who works there, and delighted us with the history of the Maya, and guided us all through the ruins. This was the highlight of my friends' trip - she is blind, and he took very special care of her! We then went to the Blue Morpho Butterfly Centre before returning to CP. We opted for a day tour of Tikal the next day, so after a fantastic fresh snapper dinner, we finally retired. The tour to Guatemala and Tikal was far beyond all expectations. Again, Lois was given special treatment - when the hiking was a little rough, she was transported by truck to the next site. Our guide, Juice, was excellent, and filled Lois in privately on what she had missed. We had lunch in Guatemala, and stopped for a shopping trip on the way back. All inclusive tour - including a Guatemalan soldier escort and lunch (US $98 ) At Caesar's we had a bright,clean room, excellent homemade meals, drinks, charming company and hospitality. The family atmosphere is unbeatable. After 3 nights we transferred to Black Rock Lodge, visiting the Ix Chel Farm and the Medicine Trail on the way. I was thrilled to meet Rosita Arvigo, as I have her books at home. BLACK ROCK LODGE is on the Macal River and surrounded by the Maya Mountain rainforest. It is secluded with beautiful cabanas all overlooking the Macal and the waterfalls. Our cabana was huge with slate walls and floor, a thatched roof, and views in every direction, yet extremely private. (US$70 ) This was truly paradise. The river is beautiful for swimming. I even tubed Vaca Falls and the Macal (US$10 ), and went on endless walks through jungle trails, and John's medicine plant trails. The meals were varied, all excellent, and served in an outdoor pavillion overlooking the falls and Macal River. John, our gracious host, makes the best rum punch I've had. I mentioned I loved milk - the next evening I was served an ice-cold glass of milk from the resident cow!! This stay was just about perfect - Caesar owns both places, and everyone connected with Black Rock and Caesar's went out of their way to make our stay with them a dream come true. I am already planning to visit both places again. Meals varied in price, but were all excellent, and very,very reasonable. This trip was outstanding, but the stays at Black Rock/Caesar's are the reasons we will return. Jeannie Finch, Moreno Valley, California, March 1999

* EK' TUN: Stayed at Ek' Tun (near San Ignacio) for 5 nights. Ek'Tun exceeded our expectations, was a great adventure, had genuine hospitality, every attention to detail, and hope to be able to return. Ken from Ek 'Tun picked us up at the airport. All arrangements at Ek 'Tun, including transfers, were made via e-mail with Ken's dad Merlin, who is their agent in the US. Their website is www.ektunbelize.com. Ken Dart and his wife Phyllis run Ek'Tun. They moved to Belize from Colorado 10 years ago, and lived in a tent for 5 years while they built Ek'Tun. They did a masterful job of planning their retreat in the jungle, with every attention to detail. Ek'Tun is on the opposite side of the Macal river from the road, so a boat is necessary to reach the property. The river was calm, cicadas were chirping, and the light was perfect for our 10-minute trip up the river. Birds were flying low over the water, and after talking for a couple of hours with Ken during the drive, we knew we were in the right place and were in for a great time. Once we reached the other side of the river, we were greeted by the official welcoming committee, Gus and Elwood, two very friendly mixed black labs. We walked up the hill to our cottage, which glowed from within with the soft light of oil lamps. The thatched-roof cabana was furnished with hand-made furniture (desk, table and 4 chairs, in addition to the beds) made from local hardwoods. The cottage can accommodate 4 people, 2 downstairs and 2 upstairs (2 single beds), though during the warmer months the upstairs might be a little warm. Downstairs, the double bed is cooled by a nice breeze from well-placed screened window-openings. Though we were there during one of the warmest months (April), there was always a breeze and we never felt uncomfortably hot. The bathroom had a floor made from smooth river rocks, and a large, open shower with tiled floor. The water is supplied by a spring on the grounds. There was plenty of hot water, and we didn't miss having electricity one bit. Ken came by around dusk each day to light the oil lamps. Meals were great; dinner that first night was Schezuan (sp?) chicken, which was great. Dessert was even better: warm bananas in a rum, butter and sugar glaze. During our stay, we had smoked pork chops, pasta, chicken and steak, usually served with a fresh salad. Had quesadillas one night that were excellent. Ken also makes great margaritas, with fresh limes from their lime grove. We always had plenty to eat. We let Phyllis know our food preferences, and she was very accommodating. Phyllis is a very good cook. It's really a treat to have homemade meals while you're travelling. Breakfast always included fresh fruits, lunches were ususally sandwiches Phyllis packed us for hikes. In addition to the river view from our cottage, there's a distant view of the rock face of a small mountain/big hill. There is only one other cottage, which is located more than 30 yards away, so that even if the other cottage was occupied (we were the only ones there for our whole stay) you'd have almost complete privacy. The cottage we were in ("B", I believe) has a great view of the river, with two adirondack-type chairs on a small patio in front of the cottage, perfect for pre-dinner beers and a few hands of gin rummy. Mornings, hummingbirds almost swarmed around some lobsterclaw flowers 5 feet from the patio. There were absolutely no mosquitoes or other biting insects, even in the evening. During our stay, we hiked to several caves, swam in the river, hiked to Vaca Falls. The caves were magnificent, some with 150 ft. high ceilings, all with Mayan artifacts. Swam in a pool at the end of one cave that had albino fish. Ken was a very knowledgeable guide, pointing out all of the interesting flora and fauna. And since they own so much isolated property, we never saw anyone else on any of the trails. We had a great time; Ken and Phyllis were excellent hosts. Would HIGHLY recommend Ek' Tun. Jim Hock, North Carolina, April 1999

* My wife, my best friend, his girlfriend and I all just returned from the most exiting and entertaining trip we have ever had. I can safely say that this is a trip that we will definitely do again. We started our trip on TACA Airlines from Houston. I have flown several airlines in the States and they all could learn a thing or two from TACA. Both of our flights were right on schedule, the attendants were very courteous, the food was good (served with real silverware) and all drinks were complimentary! When we arrived at the international airport all of the employees were very polite and helpful and customs was no problem. It was very easy to get a cab -- US$15 to our next stop at Novelo's bus station. We were supposedly taking an "express" bus to San Ignacio but I believe that the express bus is actually a mythical beast of Belize (you can't complain though when it only cost US$2.50 one way!) The bus ride was also an experience in itself as it gave us the opportunity to meet and converse with many different interesting people from the area. Once we arrived in San Ignacio we made our way from the bus stop right around the corner to MARTHA'S KITCHEN AND GUESTHOUSE. At US$17.50 per night, we could not have asked for a nicer place to stay. The entire upstairs area, which was at our disposal, was spotless. The rooms are equipped with oscillating fans and have vaulted ceilings which really adds a comfortable spaciousness (particularly in the larger front room with a king bed and TV). The bathroom is shared by all three rooms upstairs and was also very clean and well maintained. Upstairs we had a full kitchen, dining room and living room with cable TV to use (though we were too lazy to cook for ourselves). The best feature though was the patio were we spent every evening downing cold Belikins (excellent beer with a European flavor) from the kitchen below while we watched the downtown activity below and planned our next activity. We ate several meals at Martha's and most were excellent but you are better off to order the local dishes (the pizza and buffalo wings were quite unlike what I am accustomed to). Martha and staff were all very helpful and polite particularly young John and older John both of whom were extremely helpful and really made us feel like welcome guests. We also spent a fair amount of time at EVA'S RESTAURANT where, once again, we were met by friendly and helpful folks. Co-owner Bob Jones is an interesting guy though he gave me a hard time about my vacation from shaving (what are vacations for?). Equally interesting and amusing was staff member David for whom it was very difficult to tell when he was serious and when he was joking. David was very helpful in putting us in contact with all of our tour guides who were usually hanging out at Eva's. We only ate one meal at Eva's and we all ordered burritos which were pretty good and inexpensive. On our first full day we took a day trip to Tikal, US$85 per person and well worth every penny, with Mates (ask at Eva's). Mates was great and obviously knew what he was doing. We had no problems at the border and inside Guatemala the people are as friendly as those in Belize. The road trip was beautiful and Mates was careful to make sure he stopped for us where the views were especially nice (we actually discovered that all of our tour guides in Belize were more than willing to customize our trip both before and during the trip). Tikal itself was so amazing that words can scarcely describe it. Inside the park, our guide Able, was very knowledgeable and really enjoyed his work. There was literally not one question about Tikal's flora, fauna, archeology or history that Able could not answer (Able's uncle is the superintendent on the restoration project currently underway on Temple III). I would recommend if it is possible to try to stay the night here because you will enjoy every minute here and, if you stay the night, you can catch the evening and early morning wildlife that you miss on the day trip. I can definitely say that you do not want to miss this beautiful and almost magical place. On day two we went horseback riding with Charlie (also through Eva's). If you think that horseback riding with Charlie is going to be nose to tail meandering down a lazy trail, think again. I had no prior riding experience but I sure learned in a hurry! Charlie's horses (no pun intended) were well trained but many were very spunky, particularly mine who was quite used to being the lead horse and would not accept a back seat to any other horse including the one Charlie was riding herself. Charlie took use through some beautiful country down trails that she had cut herself. We stopped for a break at a Mayan burial temple that had a big cave dug inside by grave robbers. She took us all inside while she explained some of the history of the temple which was fascinating. On the third day we took a canoe trip down the Belize river with Tony's (Mates brother). Tony did not actually go with us but instead we went with Clifford and Juan who work with Tony. Both guys were great and we saw a lot of interesting wildlife including howler monkeys and loads of iguanas. I will say that this trip is a long time in a canoe and some may want to consider the shorter trip down the Macal river with Tony's which is broken up by a stop at a self-guided medicine trail (Rainforest Trail near Chaa Creek.) At this point we had reached the extent of our reservation at Martha's which we could not extend because Martha is in the process of adding seven more rooms in the back of her place and she needed to do some work in the upstairs. Martha says that the new rooms will be much like her existing ones and some will have private patios. Martha recommended that we stay at MIDAS resort and arranged for us to be picked up by Amelda who runs Midas. At Midas we stayed in quaint but spacious thatch roof cabanas which were very clean and set in a beautiful shady setting with plenty of hammocks for lounging. Amelda and family were very friendly and fun to visit with and they would even take you on the roof to feed Coca-Cola to their pet coati. Coatis are somewhat like North America's raccoons and are very curious and cautiously playful. My only complaint about Mida's is with the roosters who were not too concerned with the hour at which they began their calls. We spent our last day in San Ignacio just hanging around town, lounging around and visiting with people. On the last evening we were even invited to have dinner with a Belizean family we met. Dinner was great and we were once again in awe at the level of genuine hospitality that is so common among the people in this country. The next morning we were up early to make an attempt to catch the mythical "express" bus back to Belize City...missed it again! Anyone who would like more specific information should feel free to email me at: dtaylor1@pdq.net Daniel Taylor, Houston, Texas, February 1999

* Letter from MOUNTAIN EQUESTRIAN TRAILS (M.E.T.) Jim & I have taken on a partner and are in the process of upgrading and developing MET. Jim is in Belize now overseeing construction of 3 more cabanas (duplexes) in the same style as the first ones, if a bit larger. Each is designed with maximum view & privacy potential. The new rooms will be larger and more comfortable and the older rooms will be upgraded to roomier doubles. In addition to 6 more rooms (10 total as of Dec. 1, 1999) we are renovating the "main house," our previous residence, and are calling it La Casa Vista (House with a View). This will be an unparalleled opportunity for people to stay in beautiful, private lodging, complete with 24 hour electricity, 1 1/2 bath, 3 bedroom house. The verandas encircling both floors enable guests to enjoy 360 degree views and exceptional birdwatching. The sunsets are unbelievable... I used to make it a point to see the sunset everyday from those verandas and they are unforgettable. We are also updating our web page and changing the domain name from www.belizenet.com/met/methp.html to www.metbelize.com. The first phase of development will be completion of the rooms and main house plus upgrades to the infrastructure. In our second phase, we plan to install a hot tub, pool, and new restaurant. Our present "Cantina" will remain the bar & lounge area, obviously with more room once the new restaurant is completed. The staff at MET have been doing a fantastic job running the operation while Jim & I have been in the States. Rolando Oh, Mike Bevis, and Nick Arnold are co-hosts, and during this summer and fall, Jim Bevis is entertaining guests with his many interesting tales of our adventures. Alice Wilhoit in Florida AW2trav2Bz@aol.com is still our US rep and is responsible for reservations. I am learning to be a web site developer, mainly so I can become an active participant in maintaining our web site. I would be happy to answer any questions from you or your readers. Marguerite Bevis, Mountain Equestrian Trails, July 1999

* 5-star treatment at budget prices: That's what we received on our recent stay (Feb. 2-23, 1999) at TREK STOP, an eco-travel lodge west of St. Ignacio in the Cayo District of Belize. Our hosts Judy and John Yaeger could not have been more accommodating. We arranged our accommodations (a cabin at US$10/person a night) via e-mail (susa@btl.net) with Judy. When we arrived at Belize City International Airport, they had a van was waiting for us. Our cabin was simple but comfortable: two twin beds with clean linens, mosquito netting, and electricity. (We could have slept in one of their tents for US$6/night or rented a tent site for US$3.50 had we been packing our own. Since neither of us in our first bloom but rather in the early autumns of our lives, the cabin was a good deal.) We occasionally ate at Trek Stop's restaurant where full meals ranged from US$2.25-$4. The cook is Mayan and uses the fresh fruits and vegetables of the season. She also makes her own flour tortillas. "So this is what a tortilla is supposed to taste like," we said, our previous experiences having been with the supermarket variety. In fact, the cook taught me how to make tortillas in two easy lessons, so good bye forever to store-bought. On other occasions we bought our own food at the local farmers' market and supermarket and cooked in the well-equipped kitchen that is available to guests. On other occasions, such as when we were out for the day, we ordered boxed lunches which were tasty and ample. Sometimes we ate at nearby restaurants. SANNY'S near San Ignatio has the best conch ceviche I've ever tasted. Trek Stop's location is excellent. We walked from it to the Xunantunich ferry (1/4 mile) for our tour of the Xunantunich ruins. El Pilar is a short ride away. Trek Stop is also close to the Guatemalan border for easy access to Tikal. John and Judy arranged all the trips to El Pilar and Tikal with excellent drivers and guides. Everything was taken care of for us, even the red tape of crossing the border. Tropical Wings Nature Center with museum (complete with an Unpetting Zoo) and butterfly house are on site. Judy and John explain and demonstrate raising butterflies, literally from the egg, and growing the plants that various species eat. I tried my hand at catching butterflies "in the wild" and took a giant step from inability to catch anything (Was there a hole in the net?) to ability to catch the slow, low fliers in one day. All the butterflies found a new home at the butterfly house. For US$1.50 each we bused to the Belize Zoo to see its collection of native species. Our grand finale was a kayak (kayak rental: US$15) trip down the Mopan River from the Xunantunich ferry to Clarissa Falls. And exciting it was, made more so in that neither of us had ever kayaked or been on white water before. We went down one little fall backwards but didn't tip over or lose the paddles. The Trek Stop with its solar-powered showers and self-composting toilets is the best in eco-tourism. Our hosts were great conversationalists. Everything in our 3-week stay fit together perfectly. Marcia Mascolini, Portage, Michigan, February 1999

* TREK STOP, near Xunantunich site, Cayo. Contact: Tropical Wings Nature Center, Susa, Inc. Ltd., San Jose Succotz, Cayo District; tel. 501-9-32265, e-mail susa@btl.net. I had talked via e-mail many times with Judy Yaeger, one of the operators of this fairly new budget lodging and nature center just west of San Ignacio and stopped in to meet her and the other owners in person. I got a tour of the butterfly farm, nature displays and the cabins. These wood cabins lend a new meaning to the phrase "cozy," but they spotlessly clean and are priced right at US$10 per person. Camping is also available. You can rent both a tent and tent site for US$6.50 per person (US$3.50 for tent site alone). Food at the little restaurant here is a bargain as well. Mountain bikes (US$7.50 per day), rubber kayaks and inner tubes also are available for rent. Lots of neat things going on the Trek Stop, in an environmentally and culturally responsible way, and I encourage any traveler, budget or not, to stop in for a banana milkshake, burger and a look-see. Lan Sluder, BELIZE FIRST, July 1998

* We spent four nights at CHAA CREEK. Expensive but worth it. Great food and the service is super. My husband was ill while we were there and they arranged to get him an antibiotic and we ended up paying US$4 for it! We did about every activity offered and took several of the tours - all pricy but again, we enjoyed them so much that we didn't mind! Rooms were beautiful and they put in an extra bed for one of our kids. Plenty of room for four people. My family didn't tell me until we were back in the U.S. that there was a bat flying in and out of our room every night! Cindy Marsh, Woolwich, Maine, February 1999

* We picked up a rental car from BUDGET (www.budget.com.ni/belize/main-bel.html) to drive to San Ignacio. A four-wheel drive car big enough for the four of us ran US$88 per day. Ouch. Budget wasn't the cheapest available, nor the most expensive, but their service was efficient and they allowed for free drop-off in San Ignacio provided we kept the car at least two days. We drove the Western Highway, stopping at the Belize Zoo (very pleasant particularly if you have kids) and at JB's for a very enjoyable lunch. In San Ignacio we only got lost three or four times before we found our way to Bullet Tree Falls and the PARROT'S NEST (members.spree.com/evasonline/parrot_nest/parrot-nest.html). The Parrot's Nest was recently bought by Chris and Theo Cocchi and they are doing a great job of running the place. Chris is very helpful in making tour arrangements, or helping to find accommodations at your next destination. The cabins are quite basic but the place is beautiful and well maintained. We rented the two treehouses (US$22.50 each). They only have five cabins, one of which has a sink and toilet. The rest use shared facilities. One of the best parts of the day at the Parrot's Nest was the evening meal. It was "family style" with everyone around a large table on the porch of the main house. They serve beer, but bring your own rum to get everyone loosened up for the evening chit chat. Other than chatting with the other guests, and enjoying the solitude, there's not much to do here in the evenings. We spent some time exploring San Ignacio, local ruins, Mountain Pine Ridge, etc. As most of the guide books mention, EVA'S RESTAURANT is a great place to plan your trip, find accommodations, send an e-mail, have a beer, gather information and meet people. Astute readers will note that eating is not one of the things I recommend you do at Eva's. We took a day trip to Tikal with Mates, who hangs out at Eva's. Cost was US$85 per person, half price for kids. He was excellent. Cost included everything (transportation, lunch, guides, entrance fee) except for exit tax from Belize (which can be applied to when we fly out) and any tips we wanted to give. There were five of us on the trip. Despite the reports I had read earlier, the road to Tikal was much better than I was expecting.

* We followed up our Ambergris stay by hiking, birdwatching, canoeing, horseback riding, walking the Medicine Trail (learned about all the natural rainforest plants that contribute hundreds of ingredients to modern day medicines), and making new friends at the marvelous CHAA CREEK COTTAGES. Chaa Creek's cottages with thatched roofs and decorated with Guatemalan embroidered fabrics and colorfully woven spreads were beautiful. No electricity...but it wasn't missed. Light was from kerosene lanterns. No windows... just curtains and shutters, but windows aren't needed either. But there are complete baths with hot water showers. My white stucco cottage was high on the property and had a spectacular view. It was wonderful to awake early and watch the mist rise off the surrounding jungle. The food served in the beautiful open-aired dining room was fine, especially the breakfasts with platters of fresh fruits, granola and home made banana bread and crumb cake awaiting you. The vegetable and cheese omelets hit the spot. The soups each evening were great, especially the chicken with lime. It was fun to gather in the bar or deck off the bar before and after dinner and chat or play games with fellow travelers. The resort also arranged a wonderful trip to Tikal. Our driver was great and our guide at the ruins was never stumped by a question, whether related to nature or Mayan history. Throughout our stay, we were lucky enough to see numerous species of birds, including Belize's national bird, the colorful toucan, bats, iguanas (giant orange males all along the Macal River), butterflies, howler monkeys, and a troop of coati mundi. Andrea End, Croton-on-Hudson, New York, January 1998

* We took the Novelo bus from Belize City to San Ignacio for US$5 for two people! A great, fast way to travel and get a feel for a bit of Belizean culture. Unfortunately, the taxi from San Ignacio to Chaa Creek was a whopping US$20 for only a few miles, but there was no way around it. CHAA CREEK was delightful. We saw toucans every morning, and the flora and fauna was unmatchable. When going from San Ignacio to Tikal, there is a great, economical way to get there: Take a taxi to the Guatemala border, at which time you can change your money (for the best rate we found in the country) and take an offer from one of the drivers who operate vans to Tikal. We hooked up with another American couple and got a ride for US$50 for the four of us. Ask at the Belize border for someone to suggest a reputable driver. This was the least expensive deal we could have worked out, and it was very convenient. Nina Segal and Will Kennedy, Bronxville, New York, April/May 1998

* CHAA CREEK COTTAGES: We have not been to CHAN CHICH to which Chaa Creek is frequently compared, so unfortunately we haven't that rule stick to use. Our experience here was delightful, and we can now understand the attraction to this magnificently beautiful part of Belize. We arrived by plane from Placencia and so flew over the mountains which were breathtaking. The lodge presented itself very favorably with a staff who couldn't do enough for you, charming rooms ~two to a cottage ~ well- maintained grounds, and lovely main buildings housing the bar and restaurant complex. Even a small gift shop, charmingly placed on top of the laundry and reached by steep stairs, was well stocked with intriguing possibilities and came with an informative staff member. Architecturally the dining room is quite impressive and fits easily into the surrounding countryside. Our dinner by candlelight accompanied with good wine, four interesting and well prepared courses, and smiling, attentive service was a standout. My husband who smokes perhaps two cigars a year, enjoyed his first encounter with a genuine Cuban example quietly puffing away on the outside terrace adjoining the bar area, listening to Belizean music, watching the stars that were so close as to feel within touching distance ~ not a bad way to enjoy an evening. The rooms have a cool feeling. Whitewashed walls are decorated in bright cheerful Guatemala fabrics and wall hangings. Because they are wide open without screens or glass, be sure you are compatible with your neighbors because you will share whatever they have to say or do. This is a definite downside as was the bat who apparently lived in our rafters and would fly low in and out of our room as it went on its nightly hunting expeditions. It never bothered us but it was a bit disconcerting to feel the low flying "whoosh." The ceilings are very high and beautifully thatched giving the bat a nice place to live and keeping the room cool. There is one double bed and one single in the room with a wash basin against one wall. This is because the bathroom is too small for a basin. We didn't miss having electricity and loved the kerosene lamps in our room and votive candle in the bathroom at night. The on-demand water heater was wonderful. Never- ending fresh fruit and home baked breads made breakfast a good meal. Our rating of Chaa Creek overall is a B+. The food is A-, Bar: A-, Service and friendliness: A-, the room a B+ for appearance, a B for the bat and bathroom and a C for the lack of privacy; the ambience, grounds and appearance of the place an A-. We would definitely return but only if we could have the privacy of the honeymoon cottage or were assured there would be no one in the second half of our cottage. Tel. 501-9-22037. Catherine McCabe and Steven Helm, Van Nuys, California, May 1997

* CHAA CREEK COTTAGES, San Ignacio, Cayo, Belize, C.A.; tel. 501-9-22037; fax 501-9-22501 Year-round rates: US$115 double, plus tax and service charge of US$5 per room. Meals: breakfast US$8, lunch $10, dinner $22; all-inclusive rate (accommodation, meals, unlimited activities, tax and service) of US$125 per person. Absolutely wonderful lodge a little over 3 miles off the Western Highway just west of San Ignacio,on 330 acres near the Macal River. Beautifully landscaped, superbly run by Mick and Lucy Fleming and staff, spotlessly clean and attractive thatch cottages, with elegantly simple decor including Guatemala textiles. In short, an absolute delight of a place. With Chan Chich and a few other resorts, this is the best Belize has to offer. Not cheap, but a good value considering what you get. Rooms now have electricity (a step backward, I think, from the romantic lamps!) Water is good from the tap. Hot water for showers from on-demand propane heaters. Happily, there are few bugs here or elsewhere in Cayo. One weak area for Chaa Creek is its collection of books for guests -- Rum Point Inn and Chan Chich, among others, have superior guest libraries. Recent enhancements at Chaa Creek include upgraded meal service, more grounds lighting at night (handy to find your way back to your cabaña), a new gift shop and office, and a honeymoon cottage. On the grounds are a much-improved Natural History Museum and a Blue Morpho butterfly breeding center (US$5 to visit both). Many hiking trails, plus swimming in the Macal River, horseback riding (the resort owns more than 20 horses), birding, and mountain-biking. Several Mayan sites are at Chaa Creek. Nearby is the independently famous Ix Chel Farm and the Rain Forest Trail (formerly Panti Trail). A new Macal River Camp Site offers "soft adventure" tents on raised platforms, Belizean meals, nice bush setting -- a basic but interesting outdoor experience for US$45 per person including meals, taxes, and service. This may appeal to some student groups, upscale backpackers, and perhaps some Elderhostel groups. The "safari camp" is a good idea but at US$90 per couple, for a tent, Belizean meals, and wash-your-own-plate service, perhaps a bit pricey. Would I go back to Chaa Creek? Absolutely. Lan Sluder, BELIZE FIRST, several dates

* We were not as pleased with CHAA CREEK as we were with CHAN CHICH (where we stayed on our previous trip.) In all fairness, part of our not being totally comfortable was the extremely hot weather they were experiencing while we were there. With 90 degree temps during the day and upper 70s at night (as opposed to the usual 50s) we were, to say the least, HOT! We stayed in the new luxury cottage which they advertise as having king- size beds. The beds are actually queen-size with sheets that do not fit too well. Our cottage was located close to the staff housing and access road and during the day there was a lot of noise from trucks going back and forth as well as from a radio playing. Our cottage was spacious and clean and there was a jacuzzi in the bathroom. We were fortunate to have electricity in our cottage and a ceiling fan ...until 11 p.m. when they turned off the generator. Then we were very warm until morning, as there was not a hint of a breeze. Chaa Creek is well run and the owners are friendly, but we missed the special ambiance and beauty of Chan Chich Although we saw parrots each afternoon at Chaa Creek, we were disappointed to not have the monkeys and variety of birds which inhabit the Gallon Jug area. We did enjoy the Macal River and took a canoe trip down river into San Ignacio. We certainly did enjoy our second visit to Belize and having BELIZE FIRST in hand made our trip all the more enjoyable. You are providing a great service to all travelers with this publication. Mary Hood Pearlman, Asheville, North Carolina, February 1998

* My wife and I spent three days at DUPLOOY'S. We were very pleased with the settings. The expansive observation deck perched several hundred feet above the Macal River and at treetop level was a wonderful plaze to birdwatch, watch the huge iguanas scamper through the brush under the deck and, at night, gaze at the dazzling array of stars. Our bungalow was large and beautifully decorated with Guatemalan handicrafts. The porch in front of the bungalow had a hammock, small table with two chairs and looked over the river. This was the perfect place to lounge, read and escape the midafternoon sun. Food was simple and tasty. Each night we started dinner with hot home baked bread that was delicious. Dinner always included a salad, choice of pork, vegetarian or chicken entree, and dessert. Meals were very good with the highlight being the best home made banana bread which my wife or I have ever tasted! We occupied ourselves by canoeing and horseback riding. The clear, calm waters of the Macal River were ideal for lazily paddling down the river as we attempted to identify the dozens of colorful birds we saw. It was also alot of fun to watch iguanas scale the limestone bluff on the opposite shore as they tried to catch the last rays of the setting sun. Horse back riding was also great fun. Arnold, duPlooy's stablemaster was a charming guide. He is a genuine cowboy who has worked on ranches and who competes in local rodeos. The duPlooy's horses were smaller but hardy and sure footed. We rode across the river and up the paths of the mountain across the river from the resort. The views were glorious. Horse back riding was a great way to take in the natural beauty of our surroundings. Our only adventure away from the resort was a shopping trip to the nearby town of Melchors. Guatemalan crafts were very inexpensive. We found a beautiful large rug for US$40. We were very satisfied with our stay at duPlooy's. It is a resort which seeks to emphasize the guest's interaction with the beauty of the area's flora and fauna. My wife and I are eager to return next year. Paul and Angela Shibley, Birmingham, Michigan, May 1999. We have been Belize First subscribers since October 1998. Thank you for the help which Belize First provided in helping us plan our honeymoon!

* I spent nine days in Belize from March 11-19. We flew into Belize City and arranged to have a driver from DUPLOOY'S pick us up and drive us to San Ignacio. Our driver, Lloyd, took us to the Belize Zoo on the way to duPlooy's. We were pleasantly surprised at how neat the zoo was. Lloyd has been there many times and so the animals know him. He was able to get the howler monkeys to howl and bark and he got the black panther to come right up to the front of the cage. After we left the zoo, he took us to Duplooy's where we spent the next 3 nights. We were extremely impressed with the setting of Duplooy's. The gardens are beautiful and the deck that looks over the river is spectacular for bird watching. The first full day at Duplooy's we took a day trip to Caracol, Rio Frio Caves, and the Rio On Pools. Our guide, Rocky, was wonderful. My mom is a big birdwatcher and he was able to point out lots of different species along the way. At Caracol, there was a group of student from University of Central Florida that was working on excavating the site. I thought it was really interesting to see the work in progress. The highlight of our day was our first stop in the morning. My mother and I are both teachers so Rocky took us to his children's school in San Antonio. We got to meet all of the teachers and the principle and we got a tour of the school. It was so humbling to see how little resources these children have in their schools. It makes you appreciate how fortunate we are to live in The States. My mom is going to set up a pen pal program with her class and their school. The next day, we requested Rocky as our guide again and we took a trip to Xunantunich, Tropical Wings Butterfly Farm, and Clarissa Falls. We were overwhelmed by the beauty of Xunantunich. Although we loved Caracol, there was something so breathtaking about the sight of Xunantunich. Tropical Wings Butterfly Farm was great too. The owners are an older American couple and they have taken great strides in preserving the butterfly species of Belize. They were so informative and were willing to show us every step in the process of raising butterflies. The facilities are really nice. They have a small snack bar/resturaunt and they also have backpacker style accomodations that looked very nice. We really enjoyed our visit and would recommend it to anyone. We had lunch at CLARISSA FALLS which was probably the best meal we had the whole trip. The woman that runs the place was lovely to talk to and so much fun. We took a float trip down the river after lunch. I probably wouldn't do it again. The current wasn't very fast and it was extremely hot outside. We got fairly burned. Plus, there were all kinds of minows that were biting us along the way (not nibbling, biting)! We were also a little turned off at all of the garbage hanging in the trees along the way. We did get to see a lot of birds and iguanas which was pretty neat. As much as we enjoyed the atmosphere and lodgings of DuPlooy's, we had some major problems with the management. Ken and Judy were out of town because Ken was very sick. So they left a British man named Lenny in charge. Our first problem was when they forgot to pick us up at the airport, we waited an hour for another driver to show up. Then, after we returned from our day trip the first day, all of our belongings had been packed up and moved out of our room. They had moved them to The Pink House which is their shared bath budget accommodations. We argued with Lenny for ages and finally they moved our things back to our room. Apparently there was some sort of mix up in our reservations that involved falsified faxes and all sorts of bogus stories on Lenny's part. We checked with other guests staying there and everyone seemed to have had some sort of mix up with him at one point or another. I'm sure if Ken and Judy had been there, this would not have happened. It was unfortunate, but we still managed to have a super time. We especially liked hanging out on their deck before dinner and trading stories with the other guests about our adventures that day. The day we left duPlooy's, they arranged for a driver to take us to our next destination which was Placencia. On the way we stopped at Cockscomb River Basin and went on some trails. The drive into Cockscomb was pretty horrible, the roads are a mess. We were fairly disappointed with our visit. I expected to see a lot more wildlife besides birds. We enjoy birdwatching, but we were hoping to see some monkeys too. I don't know if we were just there on a bad day, the wrong time or on the wrong trail, but it wasn't what we imagined it to be. I think if we had spent a couple of days there, we might have had more luck. Meghan Alexis, Champaign, Illinois, March 1999

* My wife and I just returned from a fantastic 10-day trip to Belize in March of 1999. We learned a lot from the Belize First Updates in addition to the Belize By Naturalight Forums so now it is our turn to relate our experiences. We stayed at DUPLOOY'S resort near San Ignacio in one of the Bungalows (US$150/night), which was very nicely designed with tiled floors, a large porch, and a large bathroom. DuPlooy's resort is picturesquely set above the Macal River amidst beautiful grounds. We had a delicious grilled buffet dinner on our first night on the large deck that extends out from the bar at Duplooy's; dinner on the second night was good. Breakfasts were excellent, and we had some of the sweetest grapefruit juice that I have ever tasted. We spent one night at the JUNGLE LODGE in Tikal, where we were pleasantly impressed by the quite nice rooms (US$70/night). The lodge is nicely laid out in the jungle and also has a small pool, which turned out to be a great place to observe the monkeys adeptly swinging through the trees. Meals at the Jungle Lodge were so-so; we would have tried the Jaguar Inn if we hadn't had a package deal with DuPlooy's for the whole Tikal trip. Then it was back at DuPlooy's in one of their Jungle Lodge rooms (US$115/night), which was only slightly smaller than the Bungalows and was very nice, with a large screened porch. Our last night was at IAN ANDERSON'S in one of the cabanña suites (US$97/night); the suite was very nice, with a palm-thatched roof and screens on all sides. However, the hot water did not work in our suite when we were there, although hot water showers were available outside. The buffet-style food was spectacular and delicious, dinners were US$16 and breakfasts were US$11. We were treated to a steel drum concert and a fire juggling show on the night that we were staying there--great entertainment in the middle of the jungle! Kris Andersen, Rocklin, California, March 1999

* We stayed at DUPLOOY'S, in the Jungle Lodge, for four nights. The room was quite large, two double beds plus a nice screened in porch area. Everything we had read about duPlooy's was true. It's a wonderful place. Some folks have commented on the lack of contact with Ken and Judy duPlooy themselves. We mentioned off hand that we would like to see Ken's orchid nursery sometime -- before we knew it he was escorting us throughout the grounds pointing out various flora and fauna. If we hadn't asked we would have missed out on a good amount of information. The food was really quite good. Meals are served in a beautifully rustic dining room, or occasionally on the deck. They serve an appetizer, a choice of two or three entrees, and a dessert for dinner. Among other dishes we had an excellent shrimp creole, grilled chicken for dinners. One memorable breakfast included eggs made to order, fresh banana bread, fresh sweet rolls, OJ, coffee, watermelon, and an assortment of cereals. I don't know that there is any financial advantage in going on their meal plan at US$35 per person. The oft-mentioned overhanging deck is great for lounging about after the day's activities, as well as the early morning birdwatching. You don't have to be a serious birder to enjoy getting up and having coffee on the deck while Philip (the bartender) or Ken points out amazing tropical birds to you. Any comments on duPlooy's always seem to beg a comparison to its immediate neighbor CHAA CREEK. Like many people we did a fair amount of "comparison shopping" before booking duPlooy's. We did horseback over to Chaa Creek and had lunch there. Both are wonderful in different ways. The best example might be the different bars. At duPlooy's the bar is on the deck overlook, which is a focal point for admiring nature, be it the birds in the morning or the stars at night. It's fairly quiet with the guests chatting about different trips and travels. Conversely the bar at Chaa Creek is a bit slicker -- Toni Braxton playing on the stereo system and Cohibas for US$15 behind the bar -- equally enjoyable but clearly different from duPlooy's. Todd and Laura Oxner, Summerfield, North Carolina, November 1997

* Very highly recommended: INTERNATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL TOURS, San Ignacio. Ramon Silva is the principal guide for International Archeological Tours, e- mail: iatours@btl.net. He has a 10-passenger A/C van and can get it most anywhere. We visited 9 archeological sites. He is a certified guide in Mexico and Belize but not in Guatemala which requires citizenship for certification. However, he coordinated well for our visits to four Guatemalan sites including Tikal, Uaxactun and Yaxha -- an undervisited but especially scenic site not too far off the road between San Ignacio and Flores. He greatly enhanced our trip; we saw far more than we would have without him. We would probably have missed Yaxha had he not suggested it. Further, our arrangements were "hassle free" once we got there. We had extensive e-mail back and forth first where we indicated our interests and budget which he then matched quite well. Incidentally, he is a "birder" and member of the Audubon Society with a very keen eye for wild life. The group he escorted before us was a bird watching group which spotted 187 species of birds in 8 days. Eric Swanson, San Diego, California, January 1998

* I just want to thank Lan Sluder for help and encouragement to everyone on the Belize forums. Our trip to Belize was wonderful. We spent 4 nights at CLARISSA FALLS and enjoyed Chena's warm hospitality. Chena gave us terrific advice on the best way to enjoy the Cayo. We started with a trip up the Macal in a canoe furnished in San Ignacio by David's Rentals and a great young Mayan guide named Giavanni. The next day we visited Tikal, (under the auspices of a Windy Hill Tour that was accompanied both ways by two armed guards - they had been stopped the week before by banditos). On our last day, we had a car from SAFE RENTALS and a driver named Lenny. He knew every back road in the Cayo and got us to Cahal Pech, lunch at Spanish Lookout, over to the awesome 1000 ft falls, and the Rio Frio. His good driving gave us time to have a series of slides down Rio On's cascading falls. Our 60-year-old bodies left the Cayo on the 7:20 a.m. express Novello bus to Belize City. Your answers encouraged me to go for the Cayo. Although Clarissa Falls is not opulent luxury, it is very comfortable and extremely friendly. Chena, her sister Anna and son Mark coupled with their terrific cooking and the quiet beauty of Clarissa Falls made this visit wonderful. I obviously would recommend them. Lee Brewer, Middletown, New Jersey, March 1999

* CLARISSA FALLS: This is a working farm. It has a camping area, a trailer park, and cabins (mostly made of mahogany and thatch) which either have a private bath or don't. There are community bathrooms and showers for those who don't have private baths. There was an unfortunate arrangement of the bathrooms so that our bathroom backed up to the other side's bedroom. So they could hear us and we could hear them doing whatever we were doing in there, and when in there could hear what they were doing in the bedroom if anything. We had a double and a single bed, and there were several places to hang things and hangers. There were two windows with shutters (but no screens or glass), and a fan. The cabins were on the river. Many people swim in the river. It is also possible to ride horseback, go tubing or floating in the river, or get a canoe or kayak and go boating. The farm has cows (mostly Brahma crosses), turkeys, ducks, chickens, dogs, and cats, plus some more exotic animals the most personable of which is Romeo the toucan. There is also a restaurant and a full bar which is open from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. It was actually quite cold the last two nights and we almost needed a blanket. We had two breakfasts and three dinners here, and all were excellent-- small menu but all cooked to order. Breakfast was a flat US$4.50 each no matter what you get. I had eggs ranchero one day and French toast one day, and my husband had eggs and bacon. Dinner is about US$23 US for two and includes spaghetti dishes, rice dishes, seafood, sliced beef, etc. Service is good and cheerful, even when we moved from outside (when it got dark) to under the roof so we could read (there is a bookcase of books there). Rosalie Beasley, Leonardtown, Maryland, March 1998

If you are debating how to get from Belize City to San Ignacio, I'd recommend a Batty or Novello bus. The buses are a little shabby but comfortable. You can ride clear across the country for about US$5 Generally Batty buses go east to west in the morning and Novello buses in the afternoon. The buses can be fairly full departing Belize City. You are assigned a seat. Many people get off in Belmopan and you can usually spread out there. The highway from Belize City to Belmopan is fairly flat and boring. From Belmopan to San Ignacio the scenery is beautiful. The highway hugs the foothills, passing through several tiny towns, lush farms and forests. Open the bus window, hang your head out and admire the countryside. The ride takes 2-3 hours depending upon whether or not you are in an express bus. I stayed at the CAHAL PECH VILLAGE in San Ignacio. This cluster of thatch-roofed cottages drapes over a hilltop on the edge of San Iggy. The cottages are a little rustic and too dark. But the views are nice and the hotels gounds very pretty. Early in the morning there is good bird-watching around the hotel and (I'm told) at the nearby Cahal Pech ruins. The staff of the hotel is teriffic, a little inexpert but very friendly and enthusiastic. I slept very well each night but the one when the near-by nightclub was going full tilt. The food is OK: a fixed menu and slightly more expensive than food downtown. Walking to the downtown is not practical. A cab costs US$2.50 each way. I had a very nice lunch at POLLITO DORADO (doesn't look very promising from outside but go on up the stairs, the food and the prices are good). Dinner at MARTHA'S KITCHEN was good but the nachos were served cold. SERENDIP (a Sri Lankan restaurant, go figure) serves up some very tasty curries in addition to the usual Belizean meat/rice/beans. On a previous visit I stayed at the SAN IGNACIO HOTEL, more expensive than CPV but with more amenities. I recommend it. I would not rely on Cahal Pech Village to arrange day trips/tours. They dropped the ball twice, and I was saved both times by Ramon Silva at INTERNATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL TOURS (next to Martha's Kitchen). IAT's Barton Creek Cave tour is very off-beat, scenic, not strenuous. The drive over the Maya Mountains to the ruins at Caracol passes through a wonderful variety of small mountains towns, jungly hardwood and cool pine forests. The finalfew miles into the ruins are straight out of a Tarzan movie: just two muddy ruts through marshes, meadows, towering jungle. Any car can go to the top of the Maya Mountains, but the trip from the top on to Caracol demands high clearance and, frequently, 4-wheel drive. An airport shuttle leaves from EVA'S (middle of town) -- from San Iggy to Belize City in about 90 minutes for US$25. Reserve a seat. John Lumb, Houston, Texas December 1998

* We took the Z-LINE bus from Placencia to Belmopan. It was worth the trip up the Hummingbird. Very picturesque through the banana plantations and foothills. For the most part the road was just fine (this was dry weather). Only one short low land that we drove through water on a stretch of rough gravel road (could be mean in wet weather). San Ignacio is a neat town, bustling and lots of back packers. EVA'S RESTAURANT was buzzing all the time with people all ages planning day trips and tours. The food was good and you could find out just about anything you needed to know. They also had internet access. The laundry was just around the corner, and there were cheap rooms all over. Took a trip into Guatemala to visit Tikal for two days. Very worthwhile. Also visited Cahal Pech ruins, Lamanai, and Xunantunich. Awesome sights, what a legacy! Stayed at CAHAL PECH VILLAGE for three nights -- a little noisy in the early evening, but a nice view over San Ignacio. Taxi to town, or walk the short distance, remembering that the trip back up the hill is a doozy. Ken and Carol Turner, Magnetawan, Ontario, Canada, January 1998

* My family and I (four persons) stayed at CAHAL PECH VILLAGE for several days. The rates were good, US$59 per night for a small thatched roof cottage with a bathroom, shower and porch with a hammock that you could lay in and look out over the town of San Ignacio. The windows have shutters and screens that keep out the larger insects but bring repellent for any mosquitoes. If you do not want to listen to the chorus of all-night roosters in San Ignacio at the bottom of the hill stay in one of the rooms with air conditioning and TV in the cement structure above the cottages. We enjoyed the "ambiance" of being in the cottage. Food was OK. The staff prepares a couple of choices for each meal. It was filling and not too expensive. If you want to eat cheaper go down the hill to town. I can not give enough praise to the staff at Cahal Pech. Lenny, the manager, couldn't do more in helping us plan our days. Daniel, who owns the hotel, frequently made suggestions of places to go and even drove us there in his own car at no charge. Cahal Pech is not the fanciest of accommodation but you will not find anyplace that has more heart. James Maidhof, Overland Park, Kansas, March 1998

* CAHAL PECH VILLAGE in San Ignacio. Wonderful place, very nice people, reasonable prices. Food is fair to good but done in a very friendly and warm way and atmosphere. The manager, Lenny Wragg, can't do enough to make you comfortable. Highly recommended. Would go back in a heartbeat. Chuck Shinnamon, Napa, California, January 1998

* We spent our final two nights in Belize at San Ignacio's CAHAL PECH VILLAGE. At US$45 a night, we felt that we definitely got our money's worth. Our cabaña was generally wellappointed, though the bed was fitted with curiously undersized sheets. The views from Cahal Pech alone made the strenuous jaunts back from town tolerable. The youthful staff at Cahal Pech were generally quite friendly, if somewhat confused. We passed on dinner at Cahal Pech, but were fairly satisfied with the simple breakfasts offered. Merritt Deeter, Boulder, Colorado, April 1999

* We just returned from a trip to Belize, Guatemala, and Mexico. In hindsight, we should have skipped the Mexican Yucatan -- "Maya Disney" a 1990s makeover -- and spent more time in Belize and Guatemala. We hope to go back soon and see much more of both countries. PARROT'S NEST in Bullet Tree Falls was wonderful (if basic), especially for the price and setting, and Fred Probt's cooking is delicious. Highly recommended! We also enjoyed a canoe trip with DAVID'S TOURS in San Ignacio. He may be reached at HANNAH'S RESTAURANT. We went 14 miles on the Macal River, beginning at David's home near which there are some unexcavated (but looted) Mayan sites. Taking some fresh corn from David's field, we paddled until lunch, then swam and dove from a big rock at riverside un til the corn, roasted naked inside the coals, was ready. It was delicious, like popcorn on the cob ~ crunchy and flavorful. Our guide, Roderick, was highly adept at spotting parrots, herons, iguanas, and other wildlife. We also saw many fruit bats (which could easily be avoided if someone has an aversion to encountering them). The day was relaxed, and we finished at the San Ignacio bridge around dusk. Scott K. Attaway, Baltimore, Maryland August 1997

* PINE RIDGE LODGE, Mountain Pine Ridge. Contact P.O. Box 2079, Belize City, tel. 501-9-23310, or in the U.S. 216-781-6888. We stopped for a soft drink (Pepsi, no Coca Cola products here) and a quick revisit of the lodging at this cabin colony near the entrance of the Pine Ridge, on the road to Caracol. The lodge keeps back issues of our magazine in the bar/restaurant, which I appreciate. It has an excellent location, pleasant small cabins and a lot of potential. The owners have upgraded it a good deal, making the cottages more attractive and adding plantings to the site. Wish folks here could be a little friendlier, though. Lan Sluder, BELIZE FIRST, July 1998

* BLANCANEAUX, Mountain Pine Ridge. Contact: P.O. Box B, Central Farm, Cayo, tel. 501-9-23878, fax 9-23919, e-mail blodge@btl.net. It seems impossible, but Blancaneaux looks better and better each time I visit. The grounds are beautifully maintained, with native flowers accenting pathways. This trip, my family and I stayed in one of the villas, and the only word to describe the accommodations is fantastico! Our villa had two huge bedrooms. They look even larger than they are, because the thatch roofs soar more than two stories high. Each has a screen deck area with views of the Privassion River. The tiled Japanese-style baths are, I'm sure, the only baths of their kind in Belize, perhaps in Central America. Between the two bedrooms is a great room with kitchen and an unscreened deck (mosquitos are rarely a problem in the Pine Ridge.) The regular cabañas, though far less spacious and luxurious than the villas are pleasant for a couple, especially with their new decks and recently remodeled bathrooms. They're also far less pricey, at around US$120 double, off-season and US$180 in-season, as opposed to US$245, double occupancy for the villas off-season, US$350 in-season, all rates plus 7% hotel tax and 10% service.) We enjoyed our meals in the lodge's restaurant, which is being expanded. Although the Italian dishes are excellent, I'd personally like to see a wider variety of choices. A fireplace, nice during the cool winter months, is being added in the dining room, joining the one already in the bar area. We found the service, under Anne Wood's calm Scots' hand, excellent. The only disappointment this time was that the river swimming area, possibly due to the dry conditions at the time, did not look as appealing as in the past, and even my kids passed on the opportunity to swim. Lan Sluder, BELIZE FIRST, July 1998

* BLANCANEAUX LODGE: It is startling to drive and drive down a dusty, dirt road then suddenly turn into the flower-lined driveway leading to the sweeping, beautifully landscaped grounds of Blancaneaux perched above a swift- flowing stream. It is an odd dichotomy of primitive rain and pine forest and sophisticated dining and lodging. This is hard combination to pull off but Francis Ford Coppola (the owner) and Anne Wood (the manager) mostly succeed, with a stumble here and there. Don't know how you could be totally perfect in the rustic middle of nowhere. This resort was featured in Architectural Digest in the early 90s and is, if anything, more beautiful now because the landscaping has had a chance to mature. The architecture of the villas is striking with the completely open-air decks overlooking the rushing stream, the soaring ceilings that are beautifully thatched and go up to at least 25 feet, the Japanese baths that are wonderfully tiled and open to the view and smell of towering pine trees, the beautiful furniture that is built to cuddle you in comfort you while you read your favorite book or just gaze at nature and her wonders, and the decoration of bright Guatemalan, Mexican, Honduran, and Belizean handicrafts and woods. Speaking of which, check out the tables and chairs in the main dining room and porch which are made right in San Ignacio and are strikingly attractive. (Belize has an unrealized cottage industry here prime for export). But the accommodations themselves provide one of the major stumbling blocks. The villas far outpace the casitas which are overly small with dismal bathrooms fashioned from concrete and cramped commode and sink. Yes, the view is nice through the small totally screened porches but why would one want to sit there when the all outdoors beckons. Your supposedly special casita is uninviting and not a place to spend time. Coppola obviously spent a great deal of money on this place so how come the little casitas were allowed to slip through with little, to no, attention? Placing a few artifacts in each does not a palace make. So we have a mini-society of "haves" and "have nots," the villa dwellers and the casita people. Back on the positive side, Coppola installed a hydroelectric plant using the freely available stream which guarantees incredible water pressure and consistently good electrical output. If the water ever gets too low, there are generators ready to kick in. He also has an extensive garden supplying all the fresh fruits and vegetables one could possibly want along with chickens and eggs. His stables house six well-tended horses suitable for every riding capability, which is a wonderful way to see the surrounding pine and rain forests as well as some neighboring falls. The main lodge where one takes meals is warm and inviting, serving food mostly living up to what its appearance promises. Being a Coppola, the menus are largely slanted toward Italian cooking but Belizean specialties creep in along with some continental presentations. Servings are so large (maybe because Coppola is a large man) that I mostly would order half portions at dinner. There is a small but interesting wine selection from Italy and Coppola's vineyards in California. The espresso served from a real Italian espresso machine, an anomaly in the middle of Belize, is excellent as are the homemade pasta, bread and desserts. Fortunately one does a lot of walking here or you could end up a few sizes larger when you leave. There is even room service for a small extra charge should you desire it. The villas have a full refrigerator situated in a small kitchenette. Depending on the season, Anne Wood may negotiate on the price with you if you want an extended stay. One couple who was visiting while we were there had booked for three weeks. Anne did tell us they would be expanding the dining room to increase its capacity later this year. As expected they get a certain amount of dinner reservations from other resorts in the area. You can probably guess that we will definitely return here but only in a villa and probably for an extended stay. The peace, serenity, beauty and total lack of groups, tours or tourism of any kind make this a hard place to beat. Our overall rating is B+ to A- (B+ because of the lack of desirability of the casitas); the villas rate an A+; the casitas rate a C; the food is B+; the service is a B+ for intentions and B for delivery; the ambience and appearance deserve an A-; the friendliness and attitude rate an A- for the maids and a B+ for the rest of the staff; the value of services for the rate charged merits an A if you book a villa and a C+ to B- if you book a casita. We had heard there was some trouble with service at the front desk. Anne Wood seems to have straightened this out. We experienced some creative billing caused by one staff waiter who felt he could increase his take this way (he always refused to let us sign our chits which made us suspicious. When we spoke to Anne about it, our billing was immediately rectified with many apologies and subsequently the waiter in question was let go -- others had had the same complaints as we did. In the U.S., contact 1-800-PINE RIDGE (they were not very cordial or helpful) or contact the resort directly in Belize at -501-9-23878 (this is what we did). Catherine McCabe and Steven Helm, Van Nuys, California, May 1997

* We recently spent nine days in Belize on our honeymoon and enjoyed every minute of it. The first three nights we spent at BLANCANEAUX. It was very nice. The restaurant there has good food. We were on the meal plan, and we felt like we got our money's worth. Michele & David Chapuis, Stephens City, Virginia, April 1997* Made the usual pit-stop at CHEERS BAR on the way to Belmopan after picking up a hitch-hiker, who turns out to be George Sosa Jr. He is the son of the gentleman who owns the BELMOPAN HOTEL where I stay. He is very interested in trying to do something with Cohune nut oil. We talked about the various uses and how to make a business out of it. Using it in suntan oil came to mind, to get that perfect Belizean tan. As usual the Sosa family made me feel I was staying with friends, and not just at a hotel. I took him 8 more megs of ram for his 386. Somehow it does not want to work with them installed. He is coming here to Florida and will be my guest in the next few weeks. I finally went to BANANA BANK to visit with Rick Simpson. I lucked out, and John Carr was having lunch with the couple who are processing peppers. John has planted some peppers, and I had the same interest in putting in some out in Camalote. Rick was a very gracious host and drove me around in his golf cart to check out the orange groves and over to visit Tika the Jaguar. Now that is a serious pussycat! There has been a wide gravel path on the roadside put in out in Camalote. It was put there so the children would not be on the side of the road on their way to school. I am glad because it is not a nice choice to drive between an oncoming Batty bus and 30 kids at the roadside, some out on the pavement. The little single lane bridge between Teakettle and Ontario should by now be a thing of the past. The new construction and road straightening was almost finished when I left. It's another thing I won't miss. The next few days I worked on my house. Cast the foundation and then the floor for the new addition. I have to say that being a human cement mixer has little to be said for it. We got most of the walls up before I left. When I get there in September, it will be liveable. On one of the many trips out to Cayo town, I found a guy who had a manual block machine for US$100. Couldn't pass it up, such a deal! He also has a lot of teak trees and will get me a lot of seeds next "dry." I was pleased to see that my friend, John, had started almost a hundred different trees for me. He had planted palms, coconuts, various fruit trees, and some mahogany trees. Some will be for decoration and some for the orchards. We goofed off on Sunday and went to Clarissa Falls, close to the Guatemalan border. It is a very pretty place, and we all went swimming at some remote spot down river that the average tourist would not ever find. Somewhere in the week we also stopped by PIACHE HOTEL to chat with Godsman Ellis. He has a pretty spot for his hotel. I had lunch in Eva's restaurant in San Ignacio and was pleased to see a computer available for e- mail sending or receiving. The charge was US$1.50 to send an e-mail message. Terry Warburton, Oviepo, Florida, June 1997

* We really must say what a dump we found the VENUS HOTEL in San Ignacio to be. It is scruffy, the curtains at the window (which couldn't be closed) were filthy, the lock on the room door was mounted on hardboard and could have been forced open by most 4-year-olds. We checked in here, then went for a cold drink. When we returned later to shower and change for dinner there were cockroaches in the room. As you drive along the western highway you see many signs for this hotel, offering air conditioning and 24-hour security. After 6 o'clock in the evening, the reception wasn't even staffed, and the door to the the street was open to all. We didn't even check out, we just picked up our bags and left. We found a beautiful room at Martha's, a restaurant just up the road. It was very clean, and very friendly, a family run place. The pizza was pretty good, too! Jacqui Henderson & Stephen Tyler, June 1998, London, England

* VENUS HOTEL, San Ignacio ( 29 Burns Avenue, San Ignacio, Cayo District, tel. +501-9-23203). Nice, clean, and inexpensive, this hotel is in a relatively older building on the second floor of a business. It is airy and fans or ceiling fans are in each room. One room has a window A/C unit that works fairly well. The beds are clean and satisfactory. The staff are polite and they take AMEX, Master Card, or VISA and travelers checks. There is a refrigerator with cold drinks and a vending machine for odds and ends. A pharmacy is next door. Just out back from the hotel is the soccer stadium and just down from that is the river. The town seemed very safe before dark for walking around, less so after dusk. The river is beautiful and the views from the hotel seem nice. The rooms are reasonable, ranging from US$5 to $10 per nite per person for room with shared bath, US$22 for private-bath rooms. The air-conditioned one is nearly twice that. There is a lobby phone and someone is there until around 10 p.m., and they are good about letting you use it. This was my third year there and I have enjoyed each room I have been in. I would rate it "economy" but nice and safe. Bruce McNellie, May-June 1997

* On our honeymoon in Belize we first went to San Ignacio: In town, there's a lot of low-frills backpacker joints that offer location over luxury. We stayed first at the VENUS hotel which was seedy and dirty (US$14/double/off-season). We heard that both the TROPICOOL and the HI-ET were cleaner, safer, and less expensive. A bit out of town (15 min. walk), we stayed at the MIDAS RESORT, with thatch-roofed cabanas (US$22.50/double/off-season). Clean with nice landscaping and a really nice family (Gig Santiago's). Close by the river, so it can get buggy. Paige Eagle, Takoma Park, Maryland, October 1997

* On this first trip to Belize, we concentrated our stay in Cayo. Stopping first at WINDY HILL COTTAGES just outside San Ignacio, we found it to be a most convenient place from which to explore the area--no long gravely road getting in there! Pleasant grounds, roomy detached cottage (beds could have been firmer, tho), and excellent restaurant. Having a jeep we were able to venture into town now and then. What a place Eva's is -- to find out what's going on in Cayo all you need do is to read the walls! Tasty, reasonable food and for US$2.50, you can send an e-mail! We also enjoyed the food at Yesteryear Cafe. In addition to exploring the nearby ruins, we managed to drive out to both Chaa Creek and duPlooy's -- Chaa Creek has gorgeous manicured grounds and local-style buildings, but we loved duPlooys. With its terraced hillsides, walkways and Spanish-style casitas it somehow reminded me of the Berkeley, California, hills. We could have spent an entire day bird watching from duPlooys' relaxing deck. Gale Randall, Palo Alto, California, July, 1998

* Thank you for the service of reports in Update. I wish I had discovered your magazine sooner. Our family of four visited WINDY HILL COTTAGES and Jaguar Reef Lodge in December, 1997. Being a holiday vacation time, both places were busy. Our stay at Windy Hill was okay. The cottages and grounds were nice, the food good, but not plentiful for larger appetites. Their coconut pie was a huge hit (think you could try to publish the recipe?) Unfortunately, the service was very poor if one wanted ice, more drinking water or special meals such as a large group there at the time we were. Their vehicles were not air-conditioned (as advertised) and since it was unseasonably hot and humid, this was missed. The hired local people were wonderful. Loree Edwards, Wilsonville, Oregon, December 1997

* There is great accommodation in San Ignacio that doesn't seem to get much mention anywhere yet. It is called COSMOS CAMPING. It offers rooms for US$5, cabañas for US$3.50, and camping (on campgrounds cleaner than many in Canada and the States) for US$2. This business is quaint, clean, comfortable and is run by a family very willing to talk over a glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice. Lynne Marshall, Banff Centre, Alberta, Canada

* HIDDEN VALLEY INN, P.O. Box 170, Belmopan, Belize, C.A.; Tel. 501-8-23320, fax 501-8-23334; in U.S. 800-334-7942 Rates: US$181 double, $126.50 single, including breakfast and dinner, tax and service. Package rates available, including combos with Manatee Lodge in Gales Point (owned by same folks). Small, 12-room, upscale lodge on 18,000-acre private farm and estate in the Pine Ridge, owned by Bull Headley and family. More than 100 creeks are on the estate, and the number of waterfalls has not been completely ascertained. Hidden Valley has two different geologies, divided by a 1,000-foot escarpment and a fault line separating granite and metamorphic rocks. Incredibly beautiful waterfalls on property, especially Butterfly Falls (about a 1 1/2 hour hike or short drive and 1/2 hour hike from hotel) where you can swim in a clear mountain pool under the waterfall. Talk about refreshing! Few mosquitos. Comfortable rooms in duplex units of hand-laid marle daub construction with tin roofs, tile floors, fireplaces (sometimes needed in the winter), ceiling fans, no phones, TVs or A/C. Generators are run 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. -- after that, lights are on DC battery system. Very attractive central building, with library, bar, restaurant, television room showing ecovideos. Drink prices were a little steep. Nice grounds, with hiking trails to waterfalls, rivers, coffee, grape and banana plantings. Interesting coffee, banana, grape, and other plantings. Would I go back? Yes. Lan Sluder, BELIZE FIRST

* MAYA MOUNTAIN LODGE, P.O. Box 46, San Ignacio, Cayo, Belize, C.A. tel: 501-9-22164, fax 501-9-22029. Rates: US$69 double for cottage with porch, US$59 for regular cottage, US$39 for room with private bath (summer rates $10 less for cottages and $4 less for rooms). Plus tax and 10% service. Meals US$8 for breakfast, $8 for lunch, $16 for dinner. Various package plans available -- week-long packages are exceptional values. Overall, rates here are a good value. Lots of tours offered, and Maya Mountain has reduced prices on some tours to become more competitive. Located near San Ignacio about one-half mile off the Western Highway toward the Mountain Pine Ridge. Maya Mountain is a collection of eight thatch cottages (actually two now have tile roofs) and a dorm-like building with six rooms with private baths. The cottages are pleasant but not luxurious. The rooms are a step up from basic. All units have fans and hot and cold water. Restaurant can handle vegetarian needs. No bar. Family and kid activities. Many nature activities. Owners Bart and Suzie Mickler are long-time expats in Belize, active in ecotourism. They are members of the Ba'hai faith. Maya Mountain offers a lot of tours, which may or may not be good value depending on your needs (I personally prefer to use a rental car and do the tours on my own.) The Micklers have sold off part of their land and have used some of the proceeds to upgrade Maya Mountain. However, it is not in the same class as, say, Chaa Creek. Would I go back? Yes. Lan Sluder, BELIZE FIRST

CHECK OUT ALL THESE CANDID REPORTS FROM BELIZE FIRST READERS:

Islands:

Ambergris Caye Reader Updates

Caye Caulker Reader Updates

Reader Reports on Other Islands

Central Belize:

Belize City Reader Updates

Belize District Reader Updates

Northern Belize/Yucatán:

Corozal District Reader Updates

Orange Walk District Reader Updates

Yucatán, México

Western Belize/Guatemala:

Cayo/Mountain Pine Ridge Reader Reports

Belmopan Area Reader Updates

Tikal Reader Updates

Southern Belize:

Dangriga Reader Updates

Hopkins/Sittee Point Reader Updates

Placencia Reader Updates

Punta Gorda Reader Updates

Other:

Transportation & Tours Reader Updates